I decided to get off my duff and resurrect my 5 years dormant 1959 VW Bug, here's my latest scribe : The other day I decided to dip into the front brakes on my '59 VW Bug and am glad I did . I began by taking it all apart and cleaning : The brake shoes were greasy as the grease seals had failed : You can see the second from the top shoe's lining is beginning to de laminate ~ this is why all brake shoes are supposed to have that brownish coating ~ it prevents rust from starting, the rust creeps under the lining and causes them to detach, never a good thing . Here's a better image of what I was dealing with after proper cleaning : YIKES ! . At home or at work, always have the right tool for the job and spare parts on hand so you can work steadily through the job until it's finished to your satisfaction : (wingtips optional). I should have taken more pictures put this was a really messy job, the brakes were coated in old grease as was the entire front end so I took the time to do two days worth of deep cleaning and I'm not done yet although the brakes are squeaky clean now . I cleaned all the hardware and replace two of the four return springs, I'm not happy with the new Chinese springs but when you have a coiled typ of spring that the coils don't touch it's DEAD and ready to snap without further warning . I cleaned the drums completely too before repacking inner and outer wheel bearings, interestingly this car has the original typ ball bearings (better) on the curb side and roller typ in the driver's side, new they're now $90.00 each (GASP) so I'll be hunting for old Beetle in junkyards for a while now until I find some good used ones to clean up and install . The front drums are not the originals but they are factory German VW drums and are not warped, it's an easy thing to warp a VW brake drum out of round by using an impact wrench on the wheel's lug bolts . I always tighten wheel lugs by hand . Ball bearings carry far more load and have significantly less rolling resistance to boot making them imperative on oldies like this with only 36 horsepower on tap . I opened the access cover to discover this old Bug still has the original quick ratio steering box ~ I removed the fill plug as wasn't surprised to discover it is dry, adding some oil to it really loosened up the steering effort . As long as I had it up in the air I cleaned more 3/4" of the decades old accumulated grease and road munge off, wow it's filthy under there and I'm not dine cleaning it yet . The steering box sector shaft seal is weeping, we'll see how much it drips, I think I know where to buy a new one if necessary . I greased the torsion leaves, king pins and link pins then adjusted the link pins, they were okay but I think the king pin bushings may be a bit loose . It certainly drives nicely now and the brakes are still not what I'd like but it stops well . The rebuilt engine now has 200 miles on it and is gaining power as everything beds in . I'm occasionally taking it on the freeway for one exit, once it reaches 500 miles I'll do a hot oil change and clean filter, let it cool off and check & re adjust the valves , it should be ready for Yeoman duty, I'm hoping to drive it on a multi day motoring tour in March . I had more to add but lost / forgot it . Nice weather here ~ mid 70's F and light breezes, good for working . Uh, oh ~ looks like I can't add images anymore unless they're online somewhere . If anyone knows how to post them here please share the knowledge . TIA,
Nate, All your thumbnails are broken, but WHO CARES! You are wrenching, doesn't matter if it's an old 'Dub and not an AD. Maybe one of our tech guys can walk you (us) through the photo upload process if it has changed.
If you use the Insert Image button (shown below), it will ask you for the web address to the image. This is OK if you've already posted/uploaded the image somewhere publicly accessible, however it looks like in Nate's case it's trying to pull from his email (which is private). Another way to post photos is to use the "Upload a File" button that appears below the box where you write your post: After you click that button, it will ask you to select a picture from your computer/phone/tablet/etc. and it will upload it directly here (no need to upload it to a different site first). You can select one or more photos, and then the photo(s) will show up in a new box below the Upload a File button. You can either just leave them there (in which case they'll just show up in a similar box at the bottom of your post when you make the post), or you can choose to insert them directly into your post wherever you like. To do that, position the blinking cursor where you want them to go, just as if you were going to type more text (usually you can either just click or use your keyboard arrows, but if you want it at the bottom of the post you might have to press enter to move the blinking cursor down more): And then, in the Attached Files box, click either Thumbnail (to insert a small version of the photo, which people can click to enlarge) or Full Image (to insert the photo and have it always display full size) next to the photo you want to insert:
Nick, Thank You! Maybe... since you are an Admin, you could create a Stickied Thread with these steps in it. While a number of us are likely to peruse THIS thread, having a Sticky (right up top with the others) will be a handy guide for posters. And it may encourage more picture uploads (Zig, if you see this, smile). Mike
Thanks Nick! Seems like a while ago it got more difficult to get images into posts from the site's media files. I had no idea you could upload any file with the "Upload a File" button - duh! This is just a test photo.
Good call--I copied the info into the Announcements forum, as well as to a stickied thread in this forum (since it seems to be the most popular one and where "miscellaneous" threads tend to end up).
Nate, Sure wish we were closer together as we have worked on exactly ONE VW in our shop. Was a Super Beetle Convertible and our upholstery guy said if we ever brought another one to him he would ban us forever. Now to the problem: One of our portable generators has a Wisconsin Robin engine and a carb for it is extinct. A customer gave me a 36hp VW engine and making an engine to generator adapter is no biggy BUT would like someone to run in engine on test stand (or shop floor) before the effort is put into an adapter. Have zero idea if engine can pull generator at proper rpm or will handle gearing to get it there. Old engine is 25hp so would think it can. Fuel consumption is not a factor but would like something all weather and fresh out of Corvair engines. Unit is 6500 watt and very handy for junkyard runs to handle drills, saws, impacts,etc.
Hi Evan ; I wish you were closer too but that's moot . Give me some info on the VW engine you're planning to use and I can walk you through routine service and tuning . ANY air cooled VW engine will run that generator . I don't understand why you don't boil the Wisconsin carby and re use it but oh well . I use the bell housing from a discarded VW transaxle to run the engines out side of the cars, cheap, simple and 100% easy / reliable . Feel free to fill this posting with pictures and questions about the engine, for sharp tuning I'll need good clear pictures of the timing mark(s) on the crank pulley . I need to update this as I've been -really- busy and have pictures and writeups on the reeairs, I'm driving the old Bug today .
Nice '59 bug Nate....I like the addition of the auxiliary rear warning lamps as those tiny 6 volt OEM rear lamps were hard to see in traffic. Motor looks like a bone stock....1192 c.c. Here is a fun video for you....I have tried it & won a few bets using this technique.... .
Thanx Joe ; IIRC you preferred hotted up VW's, I never really go over Pops 1954 Kombi he direct imported new.... Yes, it has the original typ 1192 C.C. 36 (SAE) HP engine, sadly a later fully synchronized trans axle has been fitted . Still six volts, I'm still searching for better LED's for those brake lamps, the first pair I installed were dimmer than the original 6 volt # 1129 incandescent bulbs . I just found a guy wh makes LED taillights to fit the factory "honeycomb" taillight housings, trying to make the time to fit them and see ..... Any ideas on what to squirt / spray on the valve stems to correct sticky valves ? . They're okay when cold but as the engine warms up they stick and cause missing and occasional popping through the carby, I *think* if I can lubricate them they'll wear in . Any ideas from anyone will be appreciated .
Sticking valves could be an indication that old sticky varnished gasoline was run through it. If that is the case...Drain all the old fuel & clean out the gas tank. { It won't hurt to also flush out the fuel line from the tank to the carb }. Then I would start off spraying carb cleaner on the valve stems as you hand rotate the motor to break down the varnish. { it may take several liberal douchings before the valves start to shine up}. Then get an old pump oiler & start working Marvel Mystery Oil on the valve stems & the valve seals while you rotate the motor by hand. And you know better than anyone how important it is to adjust the valves properly on these motors. Let us know how it goes.
Thanx Joe ; The engine threw a rod through the block in Death Valley so I dragged out another one (Handy D.I.Y. tip : always keep worthless old engines on hand in your garage, they *might* come in handy someday) ad had it rebuilt, then it sat for FIVE YEARS before I installed it and instantly began having sticky valve problems . I tried "KROIL", that made is worse to maybe next with be MMO, I don't know if it's available in aerosol format (?) . My feeling is : they didn't size the new bronze valve guides properly and they'll hopefully loosen up with some external lubrication and low RPM use . There are tiny valve, maybe 7MM stems and the gaps between the valve springs are very narrow too . Why I want to use something aerosol .
