HINGES! This article ( Stovebolt Tech Tip -- Antique Chevy / GMC Truck Restoration Help ) references cutting hinge pins with a hacksaw blade. My hinges don't have nearly enough clearance for that, so I tried with a cutoff wheel on a dremel and still was not able to get the pin cut without scraping some material off the flats. Is this extra clearance going to be an issue? Or will fitting new pins make this OK? This was a "spare" hinge first, trying to decide whether to do the full set this way or come up with a plan B to get the pins pressed out. They sure are stubborn - Thanks for any help.
Me, I'd think pressing them out but I bet they're solidly in place . If you have another one to fool with, take it to a machine shop and see what they say . Same thing , weld shop . It may take several shops before you find the right guy who'll understand what you want to do .
Sorry so long between updates, life slows pickup progress. I ended up sending the hinges to a guy who rebuilds them on the side. Trying to make a rolling assembly out of the frame, I ran into good times with my new springs. I bought stock replacement Dorman 22-195 for the rear, and they just wouldn't fit into the horn on the frame. The new springs are 1.76" wide, the ones that came out were 1.70". So I hit each side with a file then some Rustoleum. The other thing I noticed was that there was talk of reversing the springs to center the rear in the fender opening. The springs are about 25" from the front eye to the pin; and about 29" from the pin to the rear eye. So flipping them (which would also require reversing the plain and threaded bushings) would result in a 4" move - Much more than the ~1.5" I keep seeing as ideal. So I left the orientation alone and plan to use the little offset blocks to get my centering. Hope everyone is well.
Thought I was doing good by buying up as many genuine AC Delco parts as possible for my build. Went to install the front springs, and installed the mount bolt. Instructions are torque into the frame at 60-80 ft-lbs, then add the nut and torque that at 60-80 ft lbs. Didn't even get to the nut, just installed the bolt and got it a little past snug when it snapped - nowhere near 60-80 ft lbs. AC Delco says these have been discontinued. NAPA has a part number but says they have been discontinued. Ordered another pair from our host - hope they do better than genuine parts... Scary when a spring mounting bolt lets go like that. Anyway, progress is progress, even though it feels slow. Hoping to get the chassis together so my body guy can check fit and move into paint. Cheers y'all, Mark
I hate to mention this but : there were a LOT of counterfeit "OEM" parts back in the 1970's...... Some were really bad like the fake DELCO coolant that caused myriad problems . When I was working L.A.P.D. Air Support we got a memo about counterfeit Bell helicopter parts (!) . Some outfits salvaged timed out rotor blades and got them back into the parts stream with fake paperworks, imagine a rotor blade de laminating in flight . I save so much original hardware it'd make your head spin . I de rust it then inspect and re use, never any failures / problems .
Reached a milestone today, and now (finally) have a rolling chassis for the body man to test fit parts on. Was planning to use original 16" wheels, but don't like the idea of spacers to clear the calipers on CPPs six lug front disc brake kit. So I'm on the lookout for options - reworking the original wheels, or buying new wheels that will clear. Want something that would have looked at home in 1951 - Suggestions? Axle is 4" drop from Nostalgia Sid, along with his modified steering components and drop springs up front. Front tires are currently old 235/60-15 but will be replaced (likely 6.00-16, which will raise the axle about an inch). Stock springs and lowering blocks in the rear.
Whew ! that's too low for me but will look great at the Show & Shine . What thickness shims did you try ? . I too hate wheel spacers but stock 16" rims have a lot of space, I bet Evan knows how to crack this nut .
