I tried to post this in the '47-'54 forum, but that sight will not come up for me for two days now. Anyhow, I'm doing a frame off resto on a '53 suburban, and have a lot of questions,the most pressing being the frame to body mounts-- I've read that '53 was the last year for using wood blocks for mounting body to frame. On my truck, the back mounts are wood,and the fronts arevery thin pieces of rubber. I'm thinking this is not right. It might also have something to do with the fact that the back of engine is backed right up to the firewall with maybe an 1/8" clearance. the lack of height in the spacer would make the body sit down closer the engine,no? Another question, can anyone give me an idea on how to identify the babbit-bearing type engine (I think '53 was the last year for those) without tearing it down. If this truck has that engine, I've been told I'm better off to find a '54 or '55 stovebolt engine to use. thanks for any help, it's much appre--appricited--apprecishea-- thanks for any help!!
53 Suburban, What you probably heard about the blocks is that '53 was the last year for wood block between the pickup bed and frame. The 1954 Suburban had blocks and rubber pieces just as you describe for your '53. Yes, the engine is normally close to the firewall. There is an engine/block casting number on the block almost behind the forward part of the starter. There is also an engine serial number (that is useful for many, but not all, years) that is pressed into the ledge in the block just to the rear (firewall side) of where the distributor goes into the block. If you find any numbers/codes, post them here. Tim
A quick and easy way to tell if your engine is a babbit pounder is to look for the external oil lines on the block, below the manifold. These lines are what fed the troughs for the dreaded dippers. Also, you can find any 235 from '54 clear through '62. Good luck!!
Thanks for the info--- the only external oil lines I can see are on the left side, under the manifolds, one line comes out of the block and up to a canister by the carb. I assumed that was the oil filter. Engine codes are as follows: On the right side behind the starter is G(C?)ON4 Then a little forward is 1 19 0 Then GM with 17 under it, then forward of the distributor is 3769716 Both starter and distributor are on the right side. On the subject of body to frame spacers, are there supposed to be rubber pads and wood blocks on each attachment point, or wood on the middle ones and rubber at front and rear? once again, thanks! Tim,kachinarv
Well, according to www.inliners.org, 3769716 corresponds to a 60-61 truck 235. Congrats!! Yes, that oil line is for the oil filter canister. Now a question for you... On the 1 19 0, are you sure it isn't I 19 0. If it is "I" instead of "1", that is the date code for your engine. I= September (A=Jan, B=Feb, etc), 19th day, and 0 for 60. HTH.
Cool! I can rebuild this one! I know Patrick's in Casa Grande Az has all the go-fast, er, go-fairly-fast stuff for that engine, anybody in the area of Arizona that specializes in rebuilding that engine? I live in Mesa,Az
Methinks Patrick's does rebuilds too...of course I don't know how far Mesa is from Casa Grande. Good luck with your stovebolt, and keep us posted.
After that last posting I put up I realized I mentioned a competitor of the folks who sponser this great forum. Kinda stupid on my part, duh! Of course any parts I buy will be from CHEVY DUTY PARTS Hopefully they'll send me a catalog someday. Thanks!! :+
Tim, Yes, the frront and rear mounting points have a rubber pad and the two middle mounting points have a wood block with a rubber pad on the bottom. I made wood blocks out of maple (with three coats of thinned marine spar varnish after drilling holes). Tim
Check with Desert Performance at www.desertperformance.com. They build v-8 engines, but may have the resorces to guide you towards some help. They also do machine work. 79 C20 Bonanza 350/400 4bbl Q-Jet 3.73 14-Bolt Corp.
