48ER OK, in my opinion the biggest hinderance to the novice saving the classic vehicles is rust and dent repair. We want the look of nostalgia but not the look of badly in need of a face lift. All the programs and magazines harp on show quality repair jobs done by highly experienced shop people; and with the popularity of the older vehicles, even basic welding shops are looking for their piece of the pie in the resto/remo world, and I'm not knocking them for that, but I just believe there is an easier, less expensive way without compromising safety. With that being said, exactly what steps can a true novice pull off in welding. I recently read an article encouraging the use of a MIG welder for novices for general repairs such as welding tabs to metal, joining two pieces of metal together, making custom needed bracketry, etc. The article said TIG welding is what we tend to see for show quality finishes, but MIG is the way to go for the basic tinkerer. I have some holes to fill and some patches to put in the floor of my truck, and at the rate that the garage that has it now is going, who knows when I will get it back. I feel like I could pull it off, but I don't want to fall out the bottom of my truck while driving either. So what's the deal? Is it feasible to think I can do it with little experience, or am I kidding myself? And what is the real differnce in the two welding systems? The article said the MIG is just as strong, it just requires more grinding down of welds. Sorry for the long post; I'm asking for all novices who are spending loads of loot towing to this place and that place to get stuff done at a snails pace. Can hardly wait for the responses, Thanks in advance. :9
I'm a MIG welder, just amateur, but when you're good at it it's quick, easy and you can get a finish you're proud of. I'm real happy with my welds (including some of the ones that show). MIG's as strong as anything, probably the strongest part of some old metal will be the welds. There are about a million tips to good welding , but basically being good is the usual two things: First thing learn from someone who is good and practice lots. Go to an evening school. Read a few of the 'how to weld' books but mainly be with people who already know what they're doing. Pick up lots of bits of old metal and practice tons before you torch the truck. DO NOT start on an important bit until you really know what you're doing. Each time you weld get a piece of scrap the same size (thickness) as the pieces you're going to work on and do a warm up run. Warms up the welder as well as you. Make sure you cut any rusted bits back to good metal before you start etc. etc... Second thing buy the best kit you can afford. The more powerful the welder the easier it is, don't bother with the cheap low amp set ups, get at least 300 amps. Make sure it'll handle a big range of wire sizes. Don't expect to be able to use those small gas bottles (they last about five minutes) get full size things that stand up on wheels in the corner of the garage - people know you do serious stuff with them. Get a welder that does spot welds, has an electric weire feed and has more than just a couple of power settings. Get a good headshield, one that fits comfortably and doesn't flop about your head. Arc activated ones are great, you can see the job right up to the moment you press the trigger, with the others you have to get the wire to the job with the lid up then close the lid and start the weld without moving your hand. My personal tip is - expect to make lots of mistakes when you first start. You'll have weld all over the place, you'll bang big holes in the good part you're trying to save and the result will look like sh*t. But, you'll get better... practice for a week and you'll be good enough to do some real stuff. On the safety side there are a million things - like don't weld any where near the gas tank, take it out and make sure the lines are dry, if anyone's close to you get them to look away before you squeeze the trigger, don't let the kids near the kit, always wear gloves and the head shield, no loose clothes, make sure the earth line really is earthed etc. etc. etc. Have fun welding, it works for me... Mel
I agree with Mel's reply. Be patient and practice, practice, pratice. Try to master sticking 2 pieces together before you try to weld a patch over a hole. Welding sheet metal is a more tricky than welding a piece of 1/4" iron. Heat is a big concern with sheet metal. Try someting on the floor pan that will be covered with a mat or carpet before you attempt a panel repair. Consider buying a plasma torch to go with the MIG. Good Luck on your project.
48er, I agree with the other posts for the most part. I use a mig welder myself. I am using a MillerMatic 135. It is great for general purpose jobs. I would not trust it to weld a subframe in place. It is not made for that. The most important factor in buying a welder is the type of welding you will do. A "mig" welder feeds a wire through a handheld "gun". You pull the trigger, and it feeds the wire, which carries the current, to the pieces of metal to be welded. You can use it with a wire that is flux cored, and tends to splatter, and leaves a residue, or with an inert gas like argon, to get a cleaner unoxidized weld. Both are fine for lots of uses. A "tig" welder uses a gun which feeds current, and a hand held stick to feed in the metal. Both take practice to get smooth, clean welds. Tig welders are way more expensive in general, but can weld thicker materials. I would agree that buying the most powerful welder you can afford is a good idea within reason. Mig welders are rated in amps, and duty cycle. They will be either 110 volts, or 220 volts. Not everyone has 220 volts available. Duty cycle is how long can you run the welder in use continously. Cheap welders are 15-30% duty cycle. That means you are supposed to run for short amounts of time, before cooling them. Higher duty cycle means more use! Also means more cost. Both will weld lots of different projects, but size, voltage, cost, etc will vary greatly. I think the best thing is to figure what types of welds you will do most often, and buy a welder to fit that. P.S. Due to costs, I would suspect most shops, except the serious ones, use mig welders. Just my two cents.....Mike
We have TIG, MIG, oxyacetylene, and stick welders. Each is good for specific needs and some for several. Beginners seem to do best with the MIG. My best metal guy uses the gas rig because he grew up doing hammer welds and when mastered this leaves a union of metals that can't be felt or seen. A tablespoon of filler will cover a weld two feet long. If you can, learn to make butt welds for patch panel areas. It's harder to do without burning metal away but it will make a repair that gives water or dirt no place to gather, thus hindering rust formation. For areas requiring strength a lap weld is better. Many areas have welding classes as an extension course and for the little they cost they're worth every dime.
Welding, mmmm, words of advice, first thing you must have above all is patience!!!! never rush a weld, if your welding body panels slow down! small short welds 1/4 inch long, cool panel with wet rag as you go, the less heat you put into the panel the better, and work hard beforehand to make it fit with no gaps. practice, practice, practice on scrap first till you can weld ok before attacking (or trashing) your truck,also remember you can trash a panel grinding the welds down by putting too much heat into one spot, so take time and grind lightly a bit at a time. Welding spatter!!! it will trash paint and glass!! so cover them with wet rags, spatter will go a long way don't forget, and it burns skin too! so cover yourself as well, wear non flamable clothes, stupid to point that one out but a mate of mine had a polyester track top on and didn't think, won't be doing that again i can tell you! wear proper gloves too, RETINAS!!! UV light from welding can blind, in a second!! you, your kids and pets, so keep everyone away and shut the garage door so no one wanders in while your zapping away, it also gives a nasty sunburn on uncovered skin, even reflected light, I had it from welding inside an ally panelled race car on the back of my neck! Safety! look around you, anything that can burn, lose it! you will be shocked how quick things ignite while your concentrating through that little bit of dark glass, check whats behind or near the panel your welding, it takes a long time to sort out a fried wiring circuit. Lastly, you see these guys on tv tacking metal without a mask, DON'T DO IT, its a very bad habit and if you forget to shut your eyes tightly you can get what we Brits call ARC EYES, your retina at the back of your eye is damaged slightly and will cause blind spots in your sight, your eyes will feel itchy the day you do it but the next day, damn! it feels like someone threw sand in your eyes and you cant get it out, you cant stand bright light, even daylight hurts, its crippling, and do it too often and you will have seriously damaged eye sight! Iv'e had it once, by accident while a friend welded near me and I got reflected uv from a sheet of ally standing up against the wall, and I was supposed to be picking my ex in-laws up from the airport next morning! That was an expensive cab ride (and an uncomfortably quiet one too) I can tell you. Having said all this, its great to stand back and realise you actually welded that patch in and now with a bit of paint, no one will know. Good luck Neil ________ Efini Ms-6
Welding Safety ESPECIALLY what Niel said ! I have this retina burn , blind spots in my vision since the 1960's so be smart & work safely . As mentioned , most high schools have evening adult classes or your local community coledge , take a welding class ~ it'll help you more than you could ever imagine .
