Battery

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by marks50, Oct 1, 2006.

  1. marks50

    marks50 Member

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    Hi All!
    I'm trying to keep the old truck original but I am frustrated with the electrical situation! New electrical harness, new battery and all connections tight but still loose charge:(:(
    Any help?
    marks50
     
  2. brit 50

    brit 50 Member

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    Try disconnecting the pos terminal of battery and either put a amp tester or a simple car bulb between the post and cable, if you have something drawing current the bulb will light up (dimly if low draw) or tester will show drain. then go around disconnecting dynamo etc, anything that could draw power and when you disconnect the fault the bulb will go out or tester will go to zero!

    Old trick, worth a try, if nothing shows up it could be faulty battery.

    Neil
    ________
    Rolls-royce 30 hp
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2011
  3. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    What Neil said ~ disconnect the _ground_ cable and see if it still goes dead .

    Is this truck still 6 volts ? . occasionally the cutout relay in the regulator will stick closed and draw current when the engine stops , this will show on the ammeter if it happens (assuming your ammeter is wired correctly) .

    If it's 12 volts with an alternator , you likely have a different problem but the very 1st. check is to leave the battery's ground cable off and see if it still goes dead ~ if so , the battery , even if it's new , is toast .

    Post a more detailed description of what's happening and someone here will be able to help you out , these trucks are very simple and easy to fix .

    BTW : a BCI group 26 12 volt battery fits nicely in the original battery compartment under the floor...
     
  4. 283 man

    283 man Member

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    REAL trucks have 8 clinders instead of 6,s.!!!
     
  5. rickh

    rickh Member

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    Woops

    Glad I did NOT say that....Duck and cover..:)
    Rick
     
  6. brit 50

    brit 50 Member

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    Last edited: Mar 17, 2011
  7. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Long Live 6 - Bangers !

    Just so ~ if you're into the _journey_ , a wheezing 235 and Huck brakes will get you there , just not in any hurry :rolleyes:

    Adding a V-ate means to be safe you really must needs upgrade the entire chassis , suspension , steering and brakes , whilst you're doing all that , I'll be out on one of my long desert drives , stopping for a Slurpee and having a good time :D
     
  8. 283 man

    283 man Member

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    :p :) I love chevy trucks of all makes and models they are like old jeans you never get tierd of,were are all in the same boat I just tried to raddle your cage VW NATE because you went on my 4 speed transmission post and told me it was junk. Well I sold it on here and their was nothing worng with it Thank You .
     
  9. federale

    federale Member

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    Too funny Nate! Remember sticking a piece of matchbook cover between the regulator contacts to keep the battery from running down?
     
  10. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    I didn't say it was ' junk ' ~ I said it is pretty much worthless in re-sale and I stand by that statement as most get tossed out .

    If you'da followed my suggestion and posted it on a Jeep / Land Cruiser forum , you'd be shocked by how much it would have gone for as they're GREAT trannies , I have one in my '49 .

    BTW : rattle away ! I like a good ribbing as much as the next guy... :D

    -Nate

     
  11. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Old Tech Field Repairs

    But of course ! I remember way more odd ball fixes than that but I hesitate to post most of them as folks don't understand.... :(

    I well recall _pushing_ our old Cornbinder L150 Bobtail and then running after it , hopping in the cab and pop starting it on ice , in January when the rubber cased 6 volt battery wouldn't crank it.... :D

    Lucky thing for me it never got away :eek:

    -Nate

     

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