I know those circular hinges hold the bottom of the tailgate in place, but what connects it up top so it doesn't rattle around?
There are just keyhole shaped slots at the top on either side that the hook on the end of the tailgate chains go into. The holes are evident on both the gate and the bed sides. With my truck in the past it was the slightly bent tailgate that held it tight. In addition, a tailgate rattling was the least of my worries, I was more afraid the whole bed would fall off. Once I am done with current restoration, I may have to revisit this. Although, there is one distinctive sound all these stock trucks made, that is the sound of the tailgate chains slapping against the box as you move around. Steve O
yeah I saw those slots and I figured it was for the chain hook to go in, but I didn't think that could possibly be the method for holding the gate in place while in the up position.
RE: tailgate Chains Yes , that's it and a perfectly fitting tailgate will allow the chains to jump out (at least the way _I_ drive) so having a slightly twisted box keeps pressure on them . When new there were cute little canvas sleeves that slid over the chains to keep them from rattling , it had a water drain hole in the very center so as to prevent rust . I think these are still being repopped but the average farm truck when I were a laddie had old tatty bicycle inner tubes on the chains , worked better lasted longer and best of all : they were _FREE_ . -Nate
RE: tailgate Chains When you install the chains, start the hooks from the bottom. There is no way they will come unhooked and they don't rattle nearly as much.
RE: tailgate Chains Uh , that won't work on the early beds , only for Task Force & Furds.. The hole where you slip in the chain on an AD bed is recessed , not an exposed loop.... -Nate
RE: tailgate Chains Are you going to use the tailgate and do you want to keep it all stock? If answer is no here are a few options: (1) use a short(1/2") piece of hose above and below the tang with the hole for the chain hook and a 1/4 or 5/16 bolt long enough to go through it and have enough thread to double nut. This will let you go back original if desired. (2) get two seat belt buckles and mount the female (release) end on the inside of the bed side and the male end on each side of the tailgate. This is the "hidden latch" that the street rod people want big bucks for. (3) get two draw latches, like the latches that drew an old dinner bucket lid tight only bigger, and put the draw end on the taigate and the peg on the back stake pocket. This is what we have on our old shop truck and it's impervious to engines rolling around and banging the sides. The latches were donated by a chevy LUV pickup and when latched you can grab the very back of the bed side and yank back and forth and it will just rock the whole truck, the bed sides won't flex one iota. Just a couple ideas to kick around.
