I have a 1/2ton frame that has had its torque tube hangin out there for several years. I've read so much of this stuff, and had great advice from many, but I still haven't nailed down which way I want to go. I assume that since the tube's not been attatched to anything, water prolly got down inside so a total redo would be needed if I went 1/2 ton? Nate, if you're out there, I hope everything is as good as it can be. My reguards. You had said that the front ends on these things weren't meant to go 70. I hope that doesn't mean that to do this regularly and safely means that I'll have to put a whole new front end on it from a more modern frame. I WILL figure things out and have no doubt that this is why I've spent the last 1/2 years just sitting in my 3/4 looking out over the hood, or setting on the running board of the 54 frame looking- thinking- By the way, any advice on how to get those running board nuts off? I just love how they turn and turn but don't go anywhere!
Zig, i sent you a PM to get your email address so i can send you a pic of the underside of the runningboard. i could probably send a guy to the moon before i could figure out how to post a picture here. The runningboards have three box braces welded to them to hold the bolts so they can be attached to the brackets on the frame. Each box brace has two slots that hold the bolts (which have a square shoulder) and these slots keep the bolt from turning when you tightening them up. If all of it is turning, you're either rounding off the shoulders on the bolts or elongating the slot. The bolts are expendable, but not the box braces. My advice to you is: sacrifice the nut and save the box brace. Sharp chisel, hammer, safety glasses and band-aids are all you need to get those nuts off. Then go to the online catalog here and order new shiny bolts and nuts.
I hate when my torque tube is hanging out. Especially if I don't notice it and I'm in a crowd. Ken is right about the bolts under the running board. I would suggest a short handled heavy hammer with a wide chisel. Safety glasses are a must. Usually you are in tight quarters unless you are lucky enough to have a lift. The short handle and the heavy hammer head gives you more force and the wide chisel reduces the number of slip offs where you nail your chisel holding fist with the heavy hammer. Don't ask me how I know. I have even beat on the bolts till they loosened enough to take a hack saw blade held in a pair of vise grips and saw through the bolt. When you finally get one off it is time for an adult beverage of your choosing before attacking the next. That way, when you are tired and more likely to hit your chisel holding hand, you won't feel it as much (or care as much). Good luck.
Just took my running boards off my junker. The bolts and nuts were so rusty that I decided to take out my favorite speed wrench...the acetylene torch Quick and easy and in the right pair of hands no damage to other vital organs, fingers or sheet metal.
I wasn't going to suggest a cutting torch, because the last time i used one, we had to call the volunteer fire dept Hey Andy, are you REALLY a surfer boy?
Yuck-yuck-yuck Thanks tailgater, I needed that! Torque tube hangin' out Well, all I can say is; One adult beverage per bolt just turned this into either a 12-pack (or one whole bottle) job! Nothing like running up the cost. That's a good point though. When we add up what all our projects end up costing us, make sure to include "B-E-E-R". I think I'll try my trusty nut-splitter IF there's enough room to get'r in there. I think I know now why my rollin' frame came with running boards! By the way, nice dodge of my front end question! And no, it wasn't your reply about my torque tube. (That happens when I see pictures like federale's. )
Since I was into my first restoration as a teen, one of my favorite sayings has always been, "It takes a lot of beer to build a car". Yes Ken, I actually am a surfer. Don't ride big stuff anymore. Anything over shoulder high and I sit on the beach and watch the younger guys get the crap beat out of them. Got a couple of nice longboards. All three of my boys surf (really just learning, but they stand up and ride nonetheless). Even got my 4-year-old daughter to ride tandem with me this summer in Maine. Maine has the best beach for young surfers to learn on. No nasty shore break to muscle out past and a REALLY gradual drop off. You can wade out with the kids for nearly 100 yards and still stand chest deep. Push them into knee-highs and watch them ride as it peels down the beach. Heaven just watching those litte kids ride those waves. To them it's "Big Wednesday". What a great time. Andy
I learned to surf in the '60's when dad was stationed in Hawaii. it's a rush, to say the least! the only surfing i do now is on the net!
I find a narrow chisel fit up in the support ' U ' easier , be sure it's a long one and sharp too ~ dull chisels wreck more parts..... The front end will be fine -if- you rebuild it and get all the slop out of it , this includes the spring shacles whixh havn't been properly greased every 3,000 miles over the last 56 years (guess how I know this tidbit) radial tires too , the correct size ones , not over wide , will make it track well and steer like a dream , even during paralelle parking these trucks steer quite easily when they'll correct . The Torque Tube ? use a shop vac and acid brush to suck all the dirt out of the open and and it'll prolly be good to go , they're _very_ sturdy units . I spent a lot of time in Maine in the early 60's , I learned to body surf there .
Many thanks for the picture of a clean underside of the running board there Ken. It makes alot more sense as to how you put those nice new bolts back in there. Nate, once again-many thanks! Your info on the front end was great news! I'll have the front end off and disassembled before it knows what happened! Would a sway bar be a good idea, or absolutely a waist of time and $$$? Also, I assume my 228/4 speed would hook right up...(?) (54 Chevy frame) (I feel like I need to mention GMC on a Chevy frame- I don't know why, you all have read enough of my ----- to probably have that down by now. My truck, once rollin', will be dedicated to all ye who have been there for me! Thanks!
Sway bar is definately a good idea . Remember to re-install the tiny caster wedges between the front axle and the springs , they go in from _behind_ . failure to install these will make your truck ' twitchy ' and very prone to bump steel plus it won't self - center after a turn anymore and this is dangerous . Using the GMC ' Long Motor ' means the radiator will have to be moved forward 2" or so , not a lot but you'll need to use the GMC core support and upper baffle thing that has the hood latch in it .... Resist the temptation to butcher the Chevy upper baffle to clear the radiator ~ go look at some AD Jimmy's in car shows....
