Rochester Carb

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by psy999, Oct 23, 2006.

  1. psy999

    psy999 Member

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    I have a rochester b carb with manual choke that I rebuilt recently for a 1954 235 (still stumbles on accel with weak power, works good with choke slightly on). I could continue to tinker with the carb to see if I could fix it, but instead I just bought a rochester b carb with manual from Chevy Duty. I wanted to see if the pro rebuilt would work better before I completely gave up on rochesters.

    Unfortunately, I can see no way to hook up the choke cable on the chevy duty carb, even with taking accessories off my existing carb. I've included a picture of the linkage on both carbs, and used a small white arrow to indicate the direction the linkage must go to activate the choke. As you can see on my old carb, there is a "cable stop" (for want of a better word) to attach the choke cable to the linkage. There's no such thing on the rebuilt.

    Of course this happened on Sunday when tech support wasn't available. I called today and got an answering machine. I left a message but don't see how this will work with my busy work schedule.

    Anyone come across this problem and have a fix?

    P.S., Nate, you mentioned that Chevy Duty had their rochesters rebuilt by Carter. The box says Champion, is this the same as Carter?

    Thanks

    Dave
     

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    Last edited: Oct 23, 2006
  2. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Interesting ~ you have there , a 1959 ~ 1962 Passenger car carby and the choke cable attachment is slightly different , it needs a ...dammit , I forget the name of the little do-dad that holds the cable end to the carby .it's a very common item and most FLAPS carry it .

    Aparently C-D has changed suppliers .

    I'd bolt it on and see how well it idles , if your tune is correct , you'll need to pump it 4 ~ 5 times before cranking it then keep your foot on the throttle untill it warms up then it should idle just fine...

    if not , you need to find the vacuum leak , might be the Bakelite heat insulator underneath the carby , between it and the intake manifold . you're not supposed to use any gasket between it and the manifold . should use a very thin gasket under the carby so it won't leak....
     
  3. psy999

    psy999 Member

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    Thanks Nate, I'll give it a try tonight and let you know. Hope your mom is okay.

    Dave
     
  4. brit 50

    brit 50 Member

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    Last edited: Mar 17, 2011
  5. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Which Multi Carbys ?

    That's a tough question :confused:

    If I were to want to go racing , I'd use three carbys as it's a three (intake)port cylinder head , prolly use Carter YF's .

    Of course , they're a little tricky to properly synch up , & once done few can resist fiddling with them wich is wrong ~ " Carburator is a French word meaning LEAVE IT ALONE ! " :D

    Contrary to popular belief , carbys DO NOT go out of adjustment ! .

    Me , I'm an old farm mechanic who is also a Foreign car mechanic (I know , what can I say ? :p ) so I'm familiar with both multi carby set ups and the venerable Rochester 'B' series carby so I like the Offenhouser two carby intake with two _matched_ Rocheser manual choke carbys on it , coupled to a split stock exhaust manifold with no restrictor plate and the heat risor flapper & bi-metallic spring still in it so's you can actually -drive- the darn thing in cold weather.....

    You pays your money and takes your choice ~ ALL of the multi carby setups are nice and give great boost in tractable power making it much more pleasant to drive in to-day's rapid traffic .

    There are also intakes to mount 2 or 4 barrel carbys , these work O.K. but not great as the fuel is dumped into the center of the intake plenum so the end cylinders never get equal fueling.....

    ' Ya canna break the laws of physics , Jim ! ' :D .

    Maybe they're good for WFO circle track racing , I think they're trash .
     

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