hi im 17 and i have a 47 chevy 3/4 ton. the truck is bone stock other than different wheels and a new msd coil. Ive had the truck since i was 12 and i learned how to fix a car on this truck so i dont think i would sell it for anything, But however the block was not drained before a freeze and it cracked. I really wanted to keep the original motor in it but its too late for that now. I have a 350 and was wondering what it takes to put it in the truck i have herd you have to knock in the firewall and move the steering box over. I dont want to change the front clip or anything i just want to have a truck that i can drive around because its far from being a show truck. I love the feel of the old rattles and wobles of an old truck.
Welcome young man! Your quest for info will be satisfied if you read the post about "rear end". CP makes mounts for engine/trans and ram horn headers allow you to keep the steering box and front end "as is". Nate has mentioned a couple of times about a pumpkin swap to make your rig a bit more highway-worthy. I don't think there's much you can do with your braking system- I think you're pretty much stuck with drums and 8 lugs. Please worry about the "wobble" part of your ride. It shouldn't wobble. "Bounce" maybe- 'till those flat spots in the tires work themselves out- It sounds like a total front end redo would be a wise move. Take some time and read back through all these threads. A lot of questions have already been answered (complete with pictures)! Good luck with your rig!
Hi 47 chevy rod, First, what is your name? Second, recently saw a '49 1/2 ton with a 350 in it on a stock frame and front end with a stock steering box. Nice conversion with A/C, etc. A real daily driver. whoever did the work did it right. as far as the exhaust and steering box clearance is concerned, I did some research and looked at this other truck I mentioned. In this '49, he has manifolds, not headers. On the driver side, he has a reversed manifold (took a PASSENGER side manifold and put it on the driver side). This gives a front dump of the exhaust instead of rear dump and provides PLENTY of clearance to the steering box without moving it. On the passenger side, he has a CENTER dump exhaust manifold which clears the frame nicely on that side. It didn't look like the old "Ram's Horn" mainfolds that I have seen, but a Ram's horn manifold would certainly work for that application and they are readily available as reproductions. Just google it and you will find it. That leaves your truck's front end and steering completely stock except for obviously having to weld or bolt in new motor mount brackets to the frame and using a new cross-member. Oh yeah, you'll be putting a turbo 350 trans on that V-ate so you'll have to trash the old rear end set-up with torque tube and put in a new rear. I hear that Camaro rear ends fit nicely and that S-10 four wheel drive rear ends are even better because the four wheel drive rears are positraction. Not sure about the Camaro or S-10 rear options as I only have it on heresay, as I abandoned the 350/350 swap idea on my truck as it appeared it was going to be too much work and money. If you do put in a V-ate, remember these trucks were not designed for that much power or speed and the stock braking system will be woefully inadequate. Why not do what I did since you want to keep it stock? I listened to Nate and put a thread on the '55-'59 forum looking for a good running 235 from a hot-rodder who did a V-ate conversion. The next day, the nicest guy responded and I took a drive to pick up the 235 he had in his garage when he did his swap 2 years ago. The engine was COMPLETE, with starter, generator, etc all the way to the tailshaft of the trans. Best thing about it is he GAVE it to me no charge. Just wanted it out of his shop space. Lots of good running 235's out there for the taking and they are CHEAP or free. Look on the stovebolt page and you will see many available. don't know where you live, but there is a cherry one up in Connecticut for $150.00 that I know of if you are close. I have seen this engine and it is CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN. Has only 1500 miles since a rebuild and it is just sitting on a pallet in a heated shop space waiting for someone who needs it. Andy
What Andy said ! Untill you upgrade the frame and suspension , a 350 is going to make your truck UNSAFE to drive . There's a guy on my other truck list who has a complete running 235 with 3 speed tranny , all for $200.00 , I duno where you're at , this helps when hoking up parts.. Your 3/4 ton rig has an open pumpkin so swapping it out for higher road speed is pretty simple once you find the '67 ~ '72 G-3500 _van_ with auto tranny so's it'll have the correct ratio .
I'm all for putting a V8 in anything, but I agree with andy and nate, until you're ready to spend the money on brakes and suspension upgrade go back with a 235. When it comes to the original stuff, listen to these guys, they know their stuff. The weight and power of the 350 is to much for stock suspension and brakes. As far as putting a 350 turbo trans behind the 350 motor. I would recommend a 700R4. This trans has overdrive and your V8 will love you for it. Keeps RPM's down and better fuel economy. By the way welcome to the site.
hi my name is ethan and i live in north texas. I was thinking about puting a six back in the truck in fact i had a 216 a guy gave me but i sold it becasue i thought i would never need it. There are alot of sixes around here anywere from 235s to 292s but alot of farmers use them for irigation motors and when they get through with them most of the time they pretty much arent worth overhauling. The reseason i was going to use the 350 is it has been rebuilt and is pretty much ready to go. Im not expecting the truck to be perfect and i dont really plan on racing it or anything (i have a mustang i do all the racing with). If i do change rearends what kinda of front mods to i need to do to make it the same as the rear lug partern
Ethan...If you choose to install the 350, I would recommend rebuilding the front end, new king pins, bushings, etc. The truck can handle the V-8 with no problem. I'm not sure about the brakes though, being a 3/4 ton. You could rebuild the braking system, new brake shoes on all four corners, master cylinder, wheel cylinders, etc. You do not have to knock in the firewall or move the steering box. Do alot of research before you start. There is alot of very good information in this site. Basically, it's what you want to do, it's your truck! Good Luck my friend and welcome! Mike
thanks guys yall have told me alot of very good information. I am going to try to get some pictures to let yall c what i am dealing with. What is the best way to lower the from end without any big mods.
I know you said no big mods but something to consider would be to subframe the front end. There are many positive's to this such as IFS, front disc, better handleing, and lower ride height. There are a few threads on here that talks about which one fits and which one doesn't. Look on page two and you will see one that says "bolt on IFS". They talk about the 79 C10 subrame in that one. I know that dad likes to subframe a lot of his with Nova front ends. They seem to work out pretty well. I know this would be A LOT of work but I also know it is worth the time spent. Just make 100% sure that you get with someone who knows what they're doing because if it's not right then your whole truck won't be right. As far as rear ends the S-10 blazer four wheel drive rear end 1998 and up is posi-trac and disc brakes. If you're using the stock width wheels, then this rear end is wonderful and can't be beat. If you're going big rims like me then use a two wheel drive blazer rear end because it is more narrow and will be able to tuck up to a 22X10 in rim under the fenders. Just my take on the situation.
