rdh, I looked through several of my catalogs and the only one that showed that they have them is bowtie bits. their website is www.bowtiebits.com BTW welcome to the forum.
I know this isn't original, but it works and looks really cool. Check out this site. http://www.classictrucks.com/events/0501cl_6th_annual_chevy_gmc_show_shine/ This guy took the hinges from a 2000 model suburban and converted them to door hinges. I just stumbled across it and thought it looked pretty cool.
It used to be that various vendors would take your old hinges and drill them out and re-bush them , fit new hinge pins and return better than new.....
thank you for your help. maby now i can hang the doors. i bought the truck without hinges and its hard to do bodywork without everything lined up.
Warning ! Warning ! Warning ! Be aware these trucks had extremely poor jig work when they were built so don't expect the doors to both look good (gaps & alignment) and close well ~ you'll get one or t'other but rarely both . Best bet is to tack weld the doors in place _before_ you remove the cab off the chassis , then invert it and repair floors , dash etc. and then once it's done , cut the welds and work the doors as a last item . this helps the cab retain its shape as you're working or welding on it . The guy in my shop who has a hot rod '49 , has terrible door fittment , esp. the passenger side door as it has a big gap between the 'A' pillar and the leading edge of the door , this is the # 1 most common fault in AD trucks and it will leak if the truck is left out in the rain , his $60,000.00 + show truck obviously never gets wet unless he's washing it but it drives him crazy nontheless ~ he removed the door skins and re-worked the inner door's frame as best he could then re-attached the skins but it's still not as he'd like it . Anyway , I wish you luck with it , I just adjust for easy opening and closing where no SLAM ! is needed and let the reveal mounding line up where it may , that's how GM did it .
Warning ! Warning ! Warning ! Be aware these trucks had extremely poor jig work when they were built so don't expect the doors to both look good (gaps & alignment) and close well ~ you'll get one or t'other but rarely both . Best bet is to tack weld the doors in place _before_ you remove the cab off the chassis , then invert it and repair floors , dash etc. and then once it's done , cut the welds and work the doors as a last item . this helps the cab retain its shape as you're working or welding on it . The guy in my shop who has a hot rod '49 , has terrible door fittment , esp. the passenger side door as it has a big gap between the 'A' pillar and the leading edge of the door , this is the # 1 most common fault in AD trucks and it will leak if the truck is left out in the rain , his $60,000.00 + show truck obviously never gets wet unless he's washing it but it drives him crazy nontheless ~ he removed the door skins and re-worked the inner door's frame as best he could then re-attached the skins but it's still not as he'd like it . Anyway , I wish you luck with it , I just adjust for easy opening and closing where no SLAM ! is needed and let the reveal mounding line up where it may , that's how GM did it .
