I can see that my rear main seal is leaking quite a bit, not sure from top or bottom. The front seal is leaking, but not as much as the rear. I would appreciate comments on how to repair the 1960 235cu front and rear seals. I think I see the rear main bearing cap outside the oilpan, easy access. I have the repair manual, but some of it sure looks greeky. The 1953 pickup, 3100, sat for 40 years, but is operational - the body is restored. It uses/leaks about a quart of oil every 100-200 miles. I have run it about 400 miles since rescueing it from the rust pile. I have changed the oil, perhaps 3 times, with the last time adding synthetic oil. Each oil change I used one of the harsh engine cleaning chemicals, run for 20 minutes before the oil change. It is now darkish looking at 200 miles after the last change. I have a magnetic plug. The timing nor the values have been adjusted. The motor sounds good/solid, cruises at 60, but a noticable decrease is felt going up a hill. Replacing the value cover gasket, all looked ok as it was running, but there was gum and tarnish visible. All visible was getting oil lubrication. I would appreciate any suggestions that might help in not pulling the motor for an overhaul (at present) - any suggestions that might free possible stuck rings, etc. From the exhaust pipe fumes, it uses oil -not sure of the use/leak mix. My wife driving behind me said the smell was strong. KentC
# 1 thing , stop screwing around and do a _HOT_ valve adjust RIGHT NOW before you burn a valve . then set the dwell then the timing as these are all critical to proper engine power and life too as well as reducing oil consumption . Adding " harsh chemicals " to clean out the engine was a bad thing to do , the syntetic oil will do that all by itself , it will also seep quite a bit more than dino oil will , especially in this old tech engine . Don't put the cart before the horse here , do the regular tune up stuff then worry about oil leakage , 300 miles to the quart is about normal so make sure you're not overspeeding the engine by trying to drive it like a regular car as this will force it to pump out and burn the oil quickly . -Nate
Kent- Ditto what Nate said. I wouldn't worry about the leaking and oil consumption yet. Before I put in a new short block, I was leaking/burning about the same amount as you. Just check it regularly and keep it full. Often, stuck rings will free themselves with some exercise. Now, as far as fixing the seals, it may be more trouble than its worth. The front seal is relatively easy, but quite labor intensive. You need to pull the radiator and the harmonic balancer first. Then remove the timing cover. This is pretty tricky. There are a dozen bolts from the front that hold it on, but also 2 in from behind that come through the front main cap. This means that you have to drop the oil pan to get them. The seal is pressed into the timing cover, and once the cover is removed is easy to replace. Be ready to spend several hours to complete it. I don't really know about the rear main, but do know it is a pain in the butt. Hope this helps.
RE: Oil Seal Replacement Kent ; Look in the shop manual about changine the oil seals , they tell you to use some foo-foo special factory tool to properly align the front cover (made by Miller Tools BTW) , you don't need it , just loosely install the timing cover then the harmonic balancer _then_ you tighten up the bolts and the snout of the harmonic balancer will center the seal for you , 'K ? . I dunno how old you are but long ago they had a children's toy called a " Chinese Finger Trap " , it was a tube of woven bamboo that you'd stick your finger in and when you tried to pull it out , the weave would tighten it's grip.... (I actually saw one yesterday) so anyway , this concept has been used to make a rope typ oil seal installer , it is called " Sneaky Pete " and is made of woven wire by Lisle Tools and also K-D Tools , it should be on the gondolas @ FLAPS , failing that any NAPA store can order one up . I'd really recommend driving it as-is for a while as you sort out the dozens of other old truck issues then if it really bothers you , think about it then . -Nate
