rearends replacement

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by blue 54, Nov 22, 2006.

  1. blue 54

    blue 54 Member

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2006
    Messages:
    2
    I have a 54 3100 and want to replace it with a new open drive line rear end with the 6 bolt hubs but don't know what the best rear end to find for replacement. Am replacing the rearend to allow a 5 spd transmission install. Looking for comments on the best options???
     
  2. Bandwagon

    Bandwagon Member

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2006
    Messages:
    4
    Nova

    I have replaced my 1952 Panel rear end with a 1971 Nova rear end........perfect fit! I also wanted to stay with 6 lug, so had the hubs fabricated to 6 lug, and they work great!
     
  3. coilover

    coilover Member

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2005
    Messages:
    2,564
    Location:
    Plano US
    If you can find a 55 1st series rear it's a bolt in. You will need to turn the springs around so the tire will be centered in the wheel opening. You will need to use an open driveline transmssion so alot of people are using the T5 which lets you keep the deep gears but have a highway cruiser when in 5th. If your never going to haul or tow then Bandwagons way is best.
     
  4. federale

    federale Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2000
    Messages:
    517
    Location:
    Washington C.H.,Ohio
    I have a 77 Nova rear in my 53. Same deal,springs need to be turned around.
     
  5. 54chevtruck

    54chevtruck Member

    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2006
    Messages:
    327
    Location:
    West Chester,PA
    What axle ratio are you guy's finding would work best in a '54 ? Factory was a 3.90 ratio
    Thanks, Steve
     
  6. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2000
    Messages:
    11,675
    Location:
    AMERICA !
    F.D. Ratio

    Really ? are you sure ? few pickups went out the door with 3.90 FD's...

    If you have that , all you need is taller tires and your old truck will scoot right along @ 55 ~ 65 MPH just fine .

    Many FD's from slushbox equipped cars have 3.72 or so ratios , this is a good thing as it relaxes the engine RPM's a bit more at road speeds .
     
  7. 54chevtruck

    54chevtruck Member

    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2006
    Messages:
    327
    Location:
    West Chester,PA
    I am not 100% sure but have read it in a few different places that in 1954 the rear ratio on 3100 went from 4.11 to 3.90 I have added a attachment from Tim's 1954 chevy truck web site that shows it. Steve Page54.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2006
  8. Greg_H

    Greg_H Member

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2006
    Messages:
    112
    54 did come with 3.90s. If you go to an open driveline, you may want to find a set of 55 1st series rear springs. The locating bolt is dead center for an open drive rear end where the torque tube rear springs had a shorter front segment.
     
  9. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2000
    Messages:
    11,675
    Location:
    AMERICA !
    Cool , thanx ! I have hit ' print ' and my 'puter here is struggling with it and will hopefuly print that out as it's too blurry to read . got it ! .

    That's great , '54s are a breed apart , many small detail changes that made them better trucks .

    -Nate
     
  10. 54chevtruck

    54chevtruck Member

    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2006
    Messages:
    327
    Location:
    West Chester,PA
    Ha, Nate 54' rule ? No seriously I liked some of the changes that's why I went with the technically last year. 55's were just just left over 54' stuck on the dealer lots.
     
  11. coilover

    coilover Member

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2005
    Messages:
    2,564
    Location:
    Plano US
    I remembered a 52 that we did that we put the T5 in and a rear from a Nissan 4wd. It had the correct width, 6 lugs, and 4.11's. The 4.11's work out to 3.29 in od with the 20% od and 2.88 with the 30% od. If you use it as a truck at all the 3.29 would be better and is close to the 3.36 (or 3.38?) highway gear setup that CP offers for the torque tube rears.
     
  12. Zig

    Zig Member

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2006
    Messages:
    4,860
    Location:
    Pittsburg KS
    Okay federale, I'm I fan of your truck! I'm also clueless by what you mean when you say you had to turn the springs around. Do you mean the stock springs of your 53? Or did the Nova springs fit the stock spring mounts, but they had to be turned around to center the wheel? Also, what is your engine/tranny combo and how does the whole thing do on the highway at highway speeds...whatever those things are...:rolleyes: How'd you get yours so low? AND... if there was anything you'd do over, what would it be? Sorry- blocking my multiple questions from posting doesn't count!:D Tanks for your time in answering these questions.:cool:
     
  13. federale

    federale Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2000
    Messages:
    517
    Location:
    Washington C.H.,Ohio
    Yeah Zig,I used the stock springs. I'm running a 305 with 4 barrel and headers,350 trans and Nova rear. Its a 410 gear so it gets to highway speeds pretty quickly.:D When I installed the Nova subframe it lowered the front by about 4 inches and I used 2 inch lowering blocks in the rear. As for things I'd do over? Nothing!
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2006
  14. psy999

    psy999 Member

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2005
    Messages:
    47
    Location:
    Cheyenne Wyoming
    Zig, when they're talking about "turning the springs around" here's the issue.

    When you look at the stock axle/spring setup on a Torque tube, notice that the "perches" are on the front of the axle instead of the top or bottom like on open axle trucks. Since the perches are on the front, the center bolt through the springs is also moved several inches farther forward (i.e., not "centered" on the springs whereas on open axle trucks the bolt is in the exact middle of the springs).

    When you go to an open axle your axle perches will be on the top or bottom of your new axle, rather than the front. Since the perch is supposed to "center" on the center bolt in the springs, this would place the entire axle several inches too far forward if you reuse your stock springs.

    One easy answer is to take the stock springs and "turn them around" so the center bolt is more towards the back. Since the stock setup normally has the rear axle placed slightly forward of center in the wheel well, moving it back a little doesn't look too bad (except to the purist).

    Another solution mentioned above is to buy new springs from a year that was for an open axle (55-62?). Then the spring center bolt will be in the center, and your axle will be centered as well.

    If you're thinking about doing this swap I can post a couple of pictures of the springs to illustrate the point.

    Dave
     
  15. Zig

    Zig Member

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2006
    Messages:
    4,860
    Location:
    Pittsburg KS
    Thanks guys! That's why I love this site- a couple of posts and it's all crystal clear! I will be doing this swap, and what you said makes total sense. If I'm putting a V-8 and auto in, well, I'm no purist. The original placement always bugged me a little anyway. It seemed a bit to far in front. So this will work. I'm a visual guy, so pictures would be cool if you've got the time. Might help someone else who justs checks this site without ever logging in, also.
    I'm a little concerned about my springs though. They have inner-tube type pieces of rubber sticking out between the leaves. I'm not sure this is a good thing. No doubt they were there to prevent squeaking? I will not be putting a different front end on, so I guess I'll have to get mine down in front with dropped springs or dropped front end I-beam. That'll take more research. Thanks again for the info guys!
     
  16. federale

    federale Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2000
    Messages:
    517
    Location:
    Washington C.H.,Ohio
    True Zig, the factory put those rubbers in there. They will be fine.[​IMG]
     
  17. Zig

    Zig Member

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2006
    Messages:
    4,860
    Location:
    Pittsburg KS
    So federale- do you have any more pics of your ride? I saw one that was bigger somewhere, but I can't remember where! I'd love to go with a weld-on front end, but my skills are not up to that. (yet) I think I could handle welding perches after I ... hey... maybe I could get the pinion angle from you!?! ??? There really are so many small details just WAITING to be overlooked, it's not even funny! BUT! As I look at my frame, and I look at my truck... covered in snow... no garage... how serious can I be...? It's all coming together... Really though- pictures would be great! I have another "snow" day tomorrow and a smaller pile of papers to grade. I'm gonna try like all get-out to get some pics posted! Really! They won't have cool arrows and things, and they will probably be as big as the Rockies, but hey- It's all a learning experience!;)
     
  18. federale

    federale Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2000
    Messages:
    517
    Location:
    Washington C.H.,Ohio
    Sorry Zig I don't know squat about pinion angles! Here's another pic that might work for you.[​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  19. Zig

    Zig Member

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2006
    Messages:
    4,860
    Location:
    Pittsburg KS
    Yup! That just looks so dang cool! I wonder how much older I will be before mine looks like yours... 'course it will wear the GMC mug, but I'll love it non-the-less!:D Thanks for the picture federale:cool:
     
  20. Boopster

    Boopster Member

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2006
    Messages:
    332
    Location:
    East Texas
    antique truck

    Hey Federale, Does that front emblem say "Southern" with red antiquing paint on the truck :eek:

    Just had to rib ya..

    "Pretty cool" looking truck,,,, for a younger saying.

    TB'sD
     

Share This Page