Just tryed to change out the dougnut at the manofold, and yup, I snaped the bolts at the manofold. Just orded new gaskets and will take the manofold out tomarrow and torch the old ones out. Question is, is it hard to reline the manofold , using the sleaves, by myself, or get help. Any tricks that I should know, just want to do a good job and not shoddy in any way Thanks, Paul
RE: Ex. leak , and changing manofol Hey Paul, are you talking about the bolts that hold the intake manifold to the head??? Is the "doughnut" the allignment sleeves?? If you got broken bolts and theres even a little bit of thread sticken out, get a pair of vice grips and puts those suckers on tight and try to convince whatever's left to come out. If there is nothing left sticking out, get an Easy Out set and go to work with that before you start torching anything. If all the bolts are brokenyou have a cruddy, bloody and extremely frusturating job ahead of you and you might be better of extracting the head and taking it to the machine shop, yeah?? Ryan PS, if you're talkin about the four bolts that hold the intake and exhaust manifold together... I dunno...probably look for a new intake.
RE: Ex. leak , and changing manofol No, I mean the 2 bolts that conect the tail pipe to the bottom of the ex. manofold. Today I'mm removing the manofolds and taking the studs out right instead of drilling and tapping them out in place. This way I replace the manofold gaskets also and then I should'nt have any leaks at all> Thanks Paul
RE: Exh. leak , and changing manofo Hi Paul ; Yes , there is a definate ' way ' to approach this job , don't touch those broken off studs without a torch as they'll snap off shorter and cause you some real pain to remove . My method to removing old rusty header bolts : Invert the manifold to the studs are sticking _up_ , have a supply of water or new can of penetrant handy and take your gas torch and heat the stud up intill it's cherry red bordering on white hot then kill the flame and instantly quench the hot stud with water or penetrant until it's cool to the touch ~ a glass full of water won't do it ~ the idea is , you expend the stud by heating it then when you rapidly cool it off with the water the bond between the two parts breaks , often you'll hear a tiny ' click ' as it breaks loose , using penetrant is good as it'll draw the penetrant in , I know some guys use parrafin (candles) ~ they claim it works better . If the stud is broken off flush , drop a large washer over it and weld the washer to the broken stud , the washer will mask it off and prevent you from welding to the manifold . now weld a nut to the washer/stud assy. and then follow the previous method . DO NOT force it ! it only takes about 50 Lb. Ft. to snap off the ear on the exhaust manifold . I am glad to hear you're using the alignment sleeves these are very important and are missing 1/2 to 3/4 of the time . they prevent intake leaks more than anything else . Your cylinder head should have a short locating stud on each end , no nuts used on these two ends . if the end studs have gone missing or have been replaced by bolts , get two studs ans install them then cut them off with 1/2" sticking out of the cylinder head so no one will be tempted to add nuts later , this causes leaks at best and cracked manifolds in extreme cases . have the special washers and bolts sitting ready on the valve cover (next to the radiator if you have a 216) and offer up the manifold with both hands , wiggle it 'round as necessary until you feel it slip into place over the rings then push it tightly against they cylinder head whilst you install the bolts and washers with your left hand , snug 'em all up gently before relaxing the pressure against the manifold then begin tightening from the center outwards... If , when it's all installed , you still have an intake leak , you'll have to seperate the two manifolds -or- have the mating surface planed by a machine shop . the bolts holding the two manifolds to-gether may snap off too so consider having it planed if you discover a leak . I hope this helps , you should _NOT_ need and gasket goop crap in this job . -Nate
RE: Exh. leak , and changing manofo Thanks Nate, sa an old welder, I got it off o.k. then sand blasted the manofold. Looks new, now wating to paint it with ss heat paint. The ports are'nt in so bad of a shape, just a little eching on the ex. ports. I planing to put a little never seize on it,[used a lot of this stuff at refinerys on steam lines], should marry up nicely. Can you tell me what collor the motors were, I'd like to keep this like it's supose to be. Thanks, Paul. ps, I like the idea of the washer then nut on the broken stud.
RE: Engine Color The original engine color was grey , a 235 looks good in this too , especially if you strip it whilst the manifolds are off , stuff the ports with plastic bags abds wash & prep it , scrubb off al the old loose & peeling paint with a wire brush before painting , the acessories go black , use cheap aluminum foil to mask off the firewall , radiator and crossmember etc. so it'll really look sharp when you button it all back up . I always rinse the engine with ether (aerosol starting fluid0 before painting as it leaves a 100 % grease/oil free surface , WATCH OUT to _not_ get a snootfull of this and pass out whilst you're draped over the fender rinsing the lower extremities The 261's were green and that looks nice too , having a green engine will make the ones ' in the know ' gasp when you pop the hood . -Nate
cd offenhausers dual intake manifol Hey Nate, Just got off the wire with Stovebolts and he said the Offenhauser dual carb intake manifold that chevyduty has or had is out of reproduction any truth to that if so do you know a sourse where one might pick one up at for a 216. email me rnj randyjenkins@cvalley.net
RE: Offy dual intake manifol I dunno , why not try The Truck Shop in orange , Ca. ? . I bought mine at a swap meet from a kid who didn't understand how to adjust dual carbys . -Nate
