350 install

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by jmather, Dec 26, 2006.

  1. jmather

    jmather Member

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    Hi all,
    I am putting a 350 with auto transmission in my son's 49. I have purchased a v-8 cross member from Chevy Duty. Can someone give me measurements for placement of the cross member? I could probably figure it out eventually, but it seems it would be easier if I utilized some of the experience on the web site.
    Thanks,
    Jeff
     
  2. Zig

    Zig Member

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    jmather? Why am I suddenly whistling the "Leave it to Beaver" tune? Believe me- it's just my mind...
    Hey- let me jump out here with my two sents;) I believe that since you'll no doubt need one of them-there transmission mounts, you really have a little wiggle room. Along the line of what looks good to you. How close do you want the cap to be, header issues and things like that-there. I have a friend in town (okay- he knows me- I know him) that has a 54 halfpint that he put a 350 auto in. I want to stop by and get where he put his mounts for the same reason. Get rid of the guess work. When I do that I'll post it for you. Right now I'm going to get some pictures on disc so I can try down-loading what I am working on. Wish me luck!
     
  3. omega7979

    omega7979 Member

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    S.B. motor mount dimension

    Measured from the very end of the frame I slipped a tape measure in along the frame behind the front crossmember.........I came up with 21 1/2 inches to the front side of the tubular crossmember...It is 22 1/4 to the center of the tubular crossmember.........I mached it all up before I took the cab off the frame so I know the 22 1/4" is a number that'll work..........See the previous post for more explained instructions.......... "question on stock front suspension with small block swap "


    Have a good night

    Leon
     
  4. coilover

    coilover Member

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    I hope you have pulled the front clip and if not please do--it will make it soooo much easier. Next get an engine lift plate from Speedway or maybe even Harbor Freight (about $15), this lets you hold the engine/trans with just a single chain so it moves freely with no binding, unlike anything that attaches in two places. Now you can put the chain hook on the notch that has the engine at the desired angle and set it in the engine bay, set your distributer cap to firewall clearance, center the engine or offset to the passenger side for left side exhaust clearance, and then set the front clip in place to check fan to radiator distance. Now you will know exactly where to put the mounts in YOUR truck. It's a pain to have mounts be off and have to make everything else have to fit around them. Here's a pic of a 350 short waterpump engine that shows one will fit with no firewall massaging and with the stock radiator in the factory position. Note it has the HEI big cap dist. Good luck
     

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  5. coilover

    coilover Member

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    I should have said the radiator is in the stock forwad to back position because it has been lowered so the fan blade will miss the lower outlet/hose.
     
  6. jason6101188

    jason6101188 Member

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    I just finished a 350 swap

    I made sure the distributor was a good enough distance away from the firewall and i had to move the steering box over 3 inches. and get 2 u joints for the column. and i put an electric fan in and got block hugger headers because of the tight clearance. And we did it right and we used the stock drive shaft.
     
  7. Kens 50 PU

    Kens 50 PU Member

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    Jason, do you have pictures that you can post? I'd like to see your setup. I'm from the old school that said: V8's and AD's don't mix because of lack of clearance for the dizzy, fan, exhaust manifolds, etc. Technology has come a long way since I started jacking with these in the late '60's. I hear you guys, but Evan's pics are worth a thousand words.
     
  8. jmather

    jmather Member

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    Thanks for all the replies. They are very helpful. At what angle should the motor be set?
    Thanks,
    Jeff
     
  9. Kens 50 PU

    Kens 50 PU Member

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    Jeff, from everything i've ever been taught, you want the intake/exhaust parallel with the ground.
     
  10. Zig

    Zig Member

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    I think Nate had said 3 degrees on the back end, so the same goes for the engine???:confused: Great photo Evan! I assume that's your truck?
     
  11. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Like Ken said : remove the carby and use a bubble level on the intake manifold's carby flange...
     
  12. federale

    federale Member

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    Did you also get the saddle mount for the front? The way this bolts up will dictate where you set the rear crossmember.
     
  13. Zig

    Zig Member

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    Okay- dumb question here. Why "level"? I could see "in the ballpark" but level? I just gotta know. I mean, think of those poor people who live in SF. Those streets are far from level, yet the engines still start and run. Obviously you wouldn't want to pop the hood and be staring into the fan blades, but what if the back end was a tad lower than the front end?:confused:
     
  14. coilover

    coilover Member

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    Zig, good question and they do set lower at the back. The reason is very scientific---they wanted to decrease the size if the transmission hump (tunnel). It would be completely acceptable to have the engine at an angle because, as you said, they run up and downhill and around banked corners. I guess for setting the floats on say a Holley you'd have to level it until finished. I have seen pictures of oval track cars that race at Oswego (sic) New York that have god awful fast big block engines hung at radical angles off the left side of the car.
     

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