I have a 50 GMC and i just got a new drag link rebuild kit and the way the old books show how the pieces go together i don't now how to comprise the spring to get the drag link around the ball on the spindle end and i got 3 spring holder pieces 2 are the same and 1 is long with a hole in it. i think the hole is for the grease to go through.
Not sure what your problem is , the repop drg link kits usually have a too long spring to use ~ since your old spring is prolly broken , you'll have to hunt around to find a good used spring and use that along with the new parts . Don't forget to smear everything with copious amounts of grease -before- you assemble , any excess with moosh out as you carefully tighten up that big threaded plug 1/2 turn past the point of no play , then insert a BIG cotter pin through the holes so it lays in the screw's slot and holds it from backing out as you drive . I'd make a point of geting an American made cotter pin as your life depends on it.... Mother Trucker in Az. has good used springs , that's where I got mine . he's over on The StoveBolt Page in the Classifieds . Or , just send a note to any & all the guys who're changing thier front suspension out for a Hot Rod as the drag links will usually have at least one good spring . Good luck hunting ! .
Got to admit, im having the same problem at this very moment, just come in for some grub after cutting a piece of steel tube that has one side missing so that the big grub screw pushes against this and compresses the spring, dont know if this will work when it comes to fitting it on ball but it has pushed the spring back a good 1/4 inch, its also just started to rain and as the old girl is outside i dont think i will get to try it today! let you know what happens ________ PUBLIC LESBIAN
Ok, update, i found with my joints that the new spring seats didnt have a chamfer on them as shown in my manual so the spring sat too far into the hole for the ball to go into, i ran the seats through the lathe to put a 45 deg chamfer on the back of them so that they seat into the taper inside the joint, this allowed the spring to move back only about an 1/8 inch but it was just enough to let the ball (with lots of grease and a rubber mallet) to push into the hole and overcome the spring, also the ball sockets (grey discs that go either side of the ball) have got sharp corners on them where they are machined, if you assemble the joint without the ball and look in the hole the discs are machined with a cut out in one side where the ball goes in, where the cut out joins the top edge there are two points that are sharp and will score the ball, i just took a hobby grinder to them and smoothed them off, not removed them!! just rounded the sharp edges of so the ball will slide past and not get damaged, ________ Silver surfer reviews
