Brake Booster

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by BarodaAJ, Jan 25, 2007.

  1. BarodaAJ

    BarodaAJ Member

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    Hey guys,
    I hope that I am not abusing your knowledge but I have another question. I am at the point of installing a brake booster and master cylinder the the truck. I want to keep under the cab because it will give a cleaner look under the hood. I have seen the preassembled on CP but I don't have a lot of money right know because of college. So I did some research and fount that a chevette came with a 7-inch brake booster, as far as I can tell they give close to the same amont of boost. The way I see it I can get a booster and master cylinder for $100 instead of $350. What do you think?:confused: Have you heard of anybody doing this?
    Thanks
     
  2. 54chevtruck

    54chevtruck Member

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    I looked up some old parts catalogs I have. Looks like boost & master cylinder mounting would be ok but the question I would have would be the rod to connect to the brake pedal on the other side. May have to rig up something from what I remember Chevette had a shorter rod due to the pedals being up higher in cowling area. Should not effect braking But if running disc brakes need to be careful with valving for prevent premature lock up of the front or rear wheels. Drum brakes should be not so touchy.
     
  3. smd50

    smd50 Member

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    I used a 75 vette master cylinder non power in the stock location
    and proportioning valve from a S-10 p/u disc drum set up.
    smd
     
  4. Kevin's 48

    Kevin's 48 Member

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    Barada I'm gonna spend the $350.00 for my master cyl instead of rigging something up. The way I see it is, it's great to go fast, but if you can't stop then what's the use. I just want to make sure that my truck will stop when I want it to and safely at that. As far as the pre-mature lockup then use an adjustable proportioning valve. I plan on doing this with my truck because I'm more of a performance guy and I want to be able to dial in my brakes to the premium braking power. Here's a link if you've never seen one or want to look into purchasing one. Hope this helps.

    http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/ssbc-valve.aspx
     
  5. Kens 50 PU

    Kens 50 PU Member

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    Do I need a proportioning valve?

    Or will ample foot pressure on the brake pedal cause my Huck brakes to engage properly after i've run through a water puddle and got them wet only because my vacuum wiper pump didn't work just right on that slight incline and i didn't see the puddle in time to avoid it? :confused: These are the questions you should be answering!:rolleyes:
     
  6. Kevin's 48

    Kevin's 48 Member

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    The proportioning valve has nothing to do with the total brake pressure applied, but the balance between front and rear pressure that is applied. Most new cars are split 60% front and 40% rear of the braking pressure. The only exception to this that I know of (their may be others) is that BMW has an electronic proportioning valve that can adjust automatically when it see's the need to. But since we don't want to get into that, then we'll just talk about the manually adjustable proportioning valve. The reason that you will get premature lock up (which is in the rear not the front) is the weight distribution through the vehicle. The front is heavier (more weight harder to lock up) and the rear will have the same amount of pressure if you don't have a proportioning valve and will lock up the rear. With going with an adjustable valve then you can fine tune your truck to stop the way that you want it to. You don't want to get to wild though and go with like a 70/30split because the truck will try to push on you and not handle well when braking in a turn. Probably the most radical I would ever dare to do is go 65/35 split. Most people would not know the difference in the two valves (adjustable and regular 60/40) because of their suspension setup, but I'm going with a more race inspired set up so that's my reason to go adjustable.

    The reason I said I'm going to spend the money for the under cab mount is because I don't want to rig up a linkage and have it bind on me. I just didn't want to smack into somebody because I was wrong in making a couple different linkages work. If you guys can make it work then great, but I'm not willing to take the chance on my rigging ability. That's all!:D
     
  7. Kens 50 PU

    Kens 50 PU Member

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    So you're telling me?

    With 90 HP at 3300 RPM and gross torque of 174 ft-lbs on dry pavement, going downhill, I should upgrade to Bendix brakes? :rolleyes: I'm confused! :confused: Did i mention 4:11 to 1 rear end!:D Maybe i won't get it out of second gear!:D
     
  8. BarodaAJ

    BarodaAJ Member

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    Thanks

    Thanks for feedback guys, you gave me a bunch of new things to think about.:) Any other ideas are greatly appreciated.
     
  9. Kevin's 48

    Kevin's 48 Member

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    Ken if it were my truck (and it's not so this is just my opinion) I would atleast make the disc brake conversion in the front and use a regular 60/40 split proportioning valve. I really don't have much experience with drum brakes on all for but from what I've heard is when they get wet forget about stopping. And in a corner and needing to stop, especially in a hurry, then you can forget about that too. I love to rebuild old cars, but I don't want to redo a front fender or something because I couldn't stop. I don't think the wopping 90H.P. is the issue with yours but the weight of the vehicle that will not allow you to stop quickly. Plus Ken if you keep that truck in second all the time then you're gonna be driving REAL slow, or blow the engine due to over rev. Put the disc on it and proportioning valve, then get into high gear and cruise on down the road with no worries.:D
     
  10. uncleger

    uncleger Member

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  11. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Actually ,

    You won't be needing 1st. gear at all and can prolly take off uphill in 3rd. with this much power and that low of a final drive . :p


     
  12. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Drum Brakes & Rain ,Puddles Etc.

    Jeeze ~ here you young pups go making me feel old again :rolleyes:

    All ya gotta do when faced with deep water (over 6") is : gently ride the brake pedal -before- you drive through it and the brake shoes will squeegee the water off the brake drum's working surface ~ after a block or so you'll feel the brakes beginning to drag more then you can release the brake pedal and you're good to go .

    I thought they taught all this in driving class ? or your pop ? I just learned it from watching as whomever was driving in the rain , back in my yoot .

    -Nate

     
  13. Kevin's 48

    Kevin's 48 Member

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    Don't think of it as getting old Nate, just more experienced right???:D
     
  14. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    " Experianced "

    ...If I get any more ' experianced ' the junkman's going to come afer me instead of my old junkers :p

    It's been really rough thius last week , I am counting the days until 5/2 when the Dr.'s will either cure me or I'll know my road is closed .
     
  15. Kens 50 PU

    Kens 50 PU Member

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    You just answered my question

    I was just about to "PM" you to ask you when you were going to "This is spinal tap". I know i speak for everyone on the forum when i say "Good luck, speedy recovery, don't worry about a thing, our prayers are with you, stop pinching the nurses' butts and post some threads while doped up!"
     
  16. Kevin's 48

    Kevin's 48 Member

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    Hey Nate I don't know exactly what you're going through, but you can definately be counting on my thoughts and prayers to be with you. Hopefully by the time I'm your guys age I'll be as smart as you guys are. I really do learn a lot from this great group of guys. So get feeling better and flood us with your knowledge. I know we could all use more of that Nate advice.
     
  17. sloromon

    sloromon Member

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    i second that!! i don't know what i'd do without you guys! and thanks for taking the time to post some new stuff, nate, we really appreciate it.

    jon
     
  18. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Thanx guys ! . it's really been rough this last year or so , at this time I cannot barely hold a wrench in my hands , God still allows me to ride my Moto though so that helps .

    The procedure is a Foroscopy Cervical Spinal Epidural , all that gobbdygook means they strap me to a viwer and use that to guide a needle through my neck and into my spine where they'll inject some stuff that will hopefully allow me to live a normal life again ~ I have some elder buddies who've had this and they say it helped them a lot .

    I can only sleep sitting up now , don't get much rest as a result .

    I guess I'm now paying for my perfidy :(

    no $ for dope and I don't like that stuff anyways as it killed most of my childhood freinds .


    FWIW , you all have taught me far more than I can ever return and for that I thank you .
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2007
  19. GrandpaGlenn0

    GrandpaGlenn0 Member

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    Nate, I've been visiting this site for months and have been amazed by the great feeling, humor, knowledge and good times that everyone shares. It is easy to understand the great respect that you engender-- you epitomize all the above. I just want to join everyone in wishing you a speedy recovery.
    Take care,
    Glenn
     
  20. Zig

    Zig Member

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    Okay! Okay!

    Okay Nate, Now I KNOW I gotta get you that picture! My puter ran out of ink, so I finally got some. If your gonna be doped up, my picture looks even better! And like Ken says, be sure to hang in there with us no matter how "out-of-it" you might be. Months from now you can go back and read your posts and maybe have a good chuckle!
    Good luck with that- Now I don't know what sounds worse. Gettin sanded down by your own truck or having a needle stuck into your kneck! Prayers are with you.
     

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