[updated:LAST EDITED ON Oct-17-05 AT 03:58 PM (CST)]Hi all: Been away for a while, hauled my 1951 AD parts truck out to New Mexico, see attached photo before I stashed it in the barn. I have one oil bath air cleaner from a 216, and maybe a line on another. Nate had told me earlier this year that I can run dual oil bath air cleaners on an OFFY manifold, and they will clear each other. Out in the desert, I like the idea of that extra filtration a lot, we get some bad dust storms out there. My question concerns the neck size on the top of the carb. I will probably run dual ##### YF carbies, from a certain shop in Michigan, all rebuilt and calibrated. Carb availbility is not the problem. Will the oil bath cleaner from a 216 fit the C*a*r*t*e*r YF neck? (note spelling of Car*t*er, I see CD is still doing their stupid censorship of potential competitors on this BB, in this case I'm refering to a carburator not Jim C*A*R*T*E*R. Find this very annoying, so I put Jim's name up here in this post anyhow, too bad for CD, what the heck are they afraid of anyhow?) Dale, aka The Junkman Attachments: https://talk.classicparts.com/images/attachments/43541cd206dcc3db.jpg
Thanks Nate, always good to hear from you. I'm following your example of using two one barrels after seeing much discussion on this subject, with the split stock cast iron manifold. Instead of a Clifford intake with single four barrel and tube type headers. Rest of rebuild will be along the lines of what Patrick's does, 261 cam, later hi-comp head with port job, Saginaw four-speed, and 3.55 rear end, retaining stock torque tube drive train. The truck is badly rusted underneath, it was from the hills of central Ohio, where the winters are bad and lotsa salt is applied to the roads. The frame is shot, but the five window cab is salvageable and the fenders, doors and hood are in surprisingly good shape. Got a few boxes of new brake parts, wiring harnesss, distributor, fuel pump and misc rubber parts with it. All for $600. I hope to use the parts with another New Mexico rolling chassis of similar AD vintage, and make one good truck out of the two. There are still a lot of AD trucks to be found parked out in the desert. Regards, Dale
RE: 235 Buildup O.K. Dale , sounds good to me ~ you'll be using the 848 casting # head then ? that's the highest C/R one there is . If you can find a 261 head gasket , use it as a template to mark off and then drill the steam holes in both head and block . -Nate
RE: 235 Buildup Nate: I think you just answered a question I had. I assume the 261 steam holes can be drilled in both block and head on a 235 to gain the same advantage from your statement? Thanks, G.H.
RE: Steam Holes Yes , there's a rather good writup on this over on The StoveBolt Page , if you cannot find it , ASK them and they'll re-post it as it's one of those things that should be done to every engine during every overhaul or rebuild . -Nate
RE: Steam Holes Yes, it is the "848" head, and I will talk to the guys at my machine shop (Hart's in Cecil, Ohio) about this. The head was inspected by a very knowledgeable gent who is a six cylinder fanatic from Ft. Wayne, Indiana. No visible cracks, and he picked thru a pile of heads, but the magnaflux will tell the rest of the story. Does drilling these extra steam holes help prevent combustion chamber cracking, which this head is reportedly prone to? Don't see how it can hurt....(like Greg, maybe I just answered my own question)
RE: Steam Holes Yes as holes prevent steam from occurring in the recesses , thus preventing the localized hot spots that make the heads crack . If you keep the radiator in good shape and ensure it has at least _THREE_ rows in the core (mine has _4_) you'll not have any cracking problems unless you really beat the engine hard ~ I drive in Death Valley and on the freeway , every day and I have NO problems . I also added an electric pusher fan to help in heat soak conditions . every little bit helps , I see lots of trucks with rusty water in the cooling system , this is never good . -Nate
