Making progress on my 64 C10. Had a long weekend working in a flooded garage and in the snow to replace the stock intake manifold, carb, and distributor with slightly more modern parts. I've now got a 4 barrel carb, new HEi distributor, and everything looks pretty shiny. Valve covers and new air cleaner for good measure. I think I'm done messing with the engine right now, but I'm looking for advice on what I should do next. I've got a buddy who's going to set me up with a former paint and body guy with a wicked shop who's going to show me the ropes to get the truck looking good. I'm expecting that to be about a grand outright with some replacement panels where needed. Besides the body work though, I'd kind of like to drive it on the highway. I've got a three speed transmission with the rear end gearing set low for hauling (not sure of the actual ratio). So, I know I need to get a different rear end gear set, but not sure how to go about it and what ratio I'm looking for. Also, there's the matter of power steering. Don't have it but I wouldn't mind it. Not sure what's involved in adding this, so any help would be appreicated. Finally, there's the bed of the truck. Currently, it's got a ton of rotten wood in it and support beams I'm going to beed to replace. My question is here, I saw a 64 once with bed slats that looked aluminum from the pictures I saw. Is there any advantage to going this direction vs. wood? I know wood's bound to be softer, but I'd be worried about dents/corrossion/rust on a bed with aluminum slats. Any thoughts? That's it. Checked off the list: Intake manifold Carb Distributor Next on the list: Body Bed Rear end gearing power steering Advice is always appreciated. Thanks -LS
"Also, there's the matter of power steering. Don't have it but I wouldn't mind it. Not sure what's involved in adding this, so any help would be appreicated." In a word ? REZ Engineering Adapter.. ( OK three words ) The adapter allows the use of a late model truck power steering gear box to be mounted SAFELY to the 64-66 frame. DO NOT try and mount a steering box using spacers. It will rip right through the frame rail over a short period of time and cause a sudden loss of steering ! ( I've seen it. It ain't pretty.) With the adapter you need to supply the gear box, pump and hoses. The crank pully and belt are needed too. If you are looking for priority in what to do next ? My vote gores to BRAKING. Look at a good front disk brake upgrade kit and improve your stopping distance by 30% over drum brakes. Val
DVal right on the the money about the steering, thats safty always #1, REZ Engineering Adapter is a good kit.
Thats What I Used, It Was A Sinch, Make Sure You Have Access To A Welder And Drill Press With A 1" Bit. Takes 3 Hours Top.
Saving brakes for the summer Thanks for the ideas. Think I'm going to save brakes for the summer when I'll be coming into another lump of cash. Right now I've got it pretty functional but for playing with the mix. I'm running a little rich right now and I've never set a carb before so it's been a little tricky. Anyone have a trick for figuring out what my rearend ratio is? I think I'm supposed to jack up the rear end and spin the back tires while counting revolutions of the center stem (not sure of the name), but it sounds a little imprecise. Thanks again for the ideas. -ls
You can take the cover off and the # of teeth are stamped on the ring & pinion. Example pinion 14 teeth divided by ring 48 teeth = 3.42 ratio. Hope this helps. Then it would be a great time to change the fluid!
More than likely you have a 4:10 rear. The carrier will need to be replaced to run some of the more highway friendly gears like 3:08. I have said this probably 50 times or so but I would highly recommend swapping out the tranny to a 700R4. Best money I ever spent on my 66. It still has the 4:10's and purrs down the highway at 70 mph. Just a thought for you. It will cost more than the rear end swap but you'll make it up in gas savings. The power steering set-up is pretty easy. A couple of hours at most. I used an early 80's pump and gear box. The box needs to mount on the inside frame rail with the pitman arm on the bottom. I used the calibrated eye to get the hoses right. This did take a couple tries though.
