Troubleshooting question on 235

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by PCStewart, Dec 6, 2005.

  1. PCStewart

    PCStewart Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2004
    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Alexandria
    So I am cruising home in rush hour DC traffic, slowing down for a stoplight and my 235 stalls....can not be re-start, sit for a few minutes apply choke, and it sputters to life but only likes to idle. Apply any amount of gas and it seems to kill it. Finally, I get it going and make my way home. I changed out fuel filters and think maybe it is time to rebuild the carb...but I'll hold off in hopes that the new filters do the trick. Same thing happens the next day slowing down for a stop sign and it stalls. So I am about to pull apart the Roch 1BBL. I am thinking a pesky jet but not sure. Any thoughts...I assume this a fuel issue, plugs look good, but my baby has run perfect 5 years running, so I am pleased.
     
  2. Bossman

    Bossman Member

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2005
    Messages:
    99
    Location:
    McMinnville USA
    Based on an experience with an airplane engine with similar symptoms years ago, check the distributor/vacuum advance system to make sure it is working properly. The advance weights and mechanical motion of the vacuum advance and return springs must work properly or it will throw the timing out of whack with the amount of fuel being fed and that can cause your problems.
     
  3. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2000
    Messages:
    11,675
    Location:
    AMERICA !
    ...What BossMan said ~ _before_ you touch the carby , make sure the point gap and timing is spot on then do a _hot_ valve adjustment and finally , with the engine _cold_ check to ensure all the manifold to cylinder head bolts are tight , they don't need gorilla tight , just a pull with a _box_ end wrench , I find mine get loose every so often , I dunno why bit my idle drops off and gets ' thready ' .

    You may do all this only to discover the leather in the acellerator pump has worn out as it is supposed to -but- you cannot do a good carby overhaul untill al else is ' just so ' .

    BTW : there should be -NO- vacuum signal to the vacuum advance mechanism when the engine is idling... this is important and I see lotsa these rigs with the dist. vacuum line connected to the intake manifold .

    To test it , disconnect the line and suck on it , , place your toung over the end of the line and it _should_ hold vacuum for as long as your toung is on the line .

    -Nate
     
  4. dunhamfield

    dunhamfield Member

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2005
    Messages:
    41
    Location:
    Crosby Texas
    Do you have the original fuel tank. If so, remove fuel line at lowest point and check to see that you have good gravity flow from tank.
    If you used 100LL aviation fuel in this old vehicle, you would never have any varnishing problems associated with auto gas. The shelf life of 100LL is five years or longer. Try leaving auto gas in your carb. for only a few months and you will have problems. I have taken carbs apart that had 100LL in them for years and found inside of carb to be like new.
    TERRY..........
     

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