I need a cover pan for the flywheel, clutch, throwout bearing, etc. Any suggestions on where I could locate one? Thank you. Kent
Ya gotta go dig through the junkpiles in the scrapyards ~ everyone has them and doesn't know it as they're lazy and never replace this important item .
Hey Kent, long time, no post Refresh my memory. Weren't you needing a another engine? How did it turn out?
Another Engine I WANT a 261 but my old mystery 1957 235 is hanging in there ~ one more bit of proof that these old nails are hard to kill.
I may have an extra laying around my garage after I got done installing my engine and trans. I will have a look and let you know. No charge if I have it for you. Andy
They should be a dime a dozen Any old boneyard with old chevys should have them. Correct me if i'm wrong, but any 216 or 235 should be the same and if you can't find one that way, "Bowtie Bits" sells one (fiberglass) for 30 bucks, which i think is a little high. But you can call Chevs of the 40's and ask about them because they normally have used odd ball parts that they will sell. Another source is Obsolite Chevy Parts out of Atlanta, Georgia, who also specializing in odd ball parts. Happy hunting.
They're Different Truck 216 & 235 flywheel covers (" Splash Pans ") are different than the ones used on later model passenger cars ~ I went through this on my buddy's '54 Sedan with three speed tranny . IIRC , we finally found one from a 1962 BelAire that fit correctly . Match the holes ! . The two rear most screws that you cannot figure out how to install , will easily go in once you scrape all the grease off the crossmember & reveal the two stratigically placed acess holes . Interestingly , the clutch in my '49 was very grabby and didn't release due to oil mist blown out the Road Draft tube and sucked up through the exposed flywheel, , I used to have to wash the clutch every month or so untill I found a splash pana dninstalled it ~ then the clutch trouble <magically> dissapeared... BTW : the correct , flat headed screws can easily be found on the valve chest on the side of the worst old greasy junker 216 or 235 engines...
Flywheel cover, 235 engine Thank you for the where to find info. Yes I am the one that was looking for a cheap replacement on the 235. I could not find one, so I pulled the motor and hired an overhaul. I picked the place more likely to give a good price, but it ended up costing as much as the most expensive quote (but the labor of the mechanic was only $350). Parts and machine work ate my lunch. The cylinders were rusted some, so they milled to a 261 equilavent. The crank was ground and the camshaft replaced was to a 261. It required new pistons, rods, lifters, and a new rocker arm assy. He said he understood why it was using a quart every 100 miles (the old engine was wore out). It was expensive, $2300 and I pulled the engine. I have a rebuilt transmission - $400(it was a mess too). I have yet to put either in, but maybe soon as time permits. Both are setting in my shop waiting patiently. I am paranoid and skeptical about the high RPM breakin, so what is the problem with breaking in the engine they way I was taught - slow for 500 miles, change oil, then "go to town"? Kent
Proper Breakin Kent ; Nothing wrong with the slow breakin if you don't mind an engine with blowby and burns oil , has less power .... Remember to add a magnetic oil drain plug and don't be freaked out by all the SWARF that it collects .
Engine Breakin So tell me again how to break in a new rebuilt motor. Use what kind of oil? I need a tachometer right? And this is not a joke on me right (an expensive one)? kentc
Remove spark plugs & crank engine untill oil comes out the rocker weep holes . any modern , detergent oil will do ~ NO synthetics ! . I use 10W-40 for breakin but use your fav. Static time engine to ball & pointer . By now the carby should be full of fuel . Button it up , connect tachometer and place watch or clock with sweep second hand where you can see it and it won't slip and fall down . Start engine and and immediately run it up to 3,000 RPM's and _hold_ it there whilst it's howling away , blowing blue smoke DO NOT rev. it or very the engine speed if at all possible . After 60 seconds (one whole minute wherin time will appear to slow down) release the throttle and shut it off , allow to cool 100 % before re-starting and making needed timing & idle adjustments , you're good to go . No joke . Important note : if you installed a new cam , it should come with a breakin tag specifying a breakin RPM ~ if so , follow that RPM range , they may want it to run a bit longer - this is _extremely_ important as the cam lobes need to be ' work hardened ' in the breakin process .
Engine breakin By static time engine to ball and pointer, you mean piston 1 at it highest mark, tested with a screwdriver in the spark plug hole, while distributor roter points to cylinder 1 wire on distributor, while the timing mark in the bell housing is pointed to the little ball on the flywheel? The overhaul mechanic should have set the timing, but I guess I need to double check, huh? He also said he set the valves (cold). 3000 rpm, I did not think they went that high on the old engines (but what do I know). Is that about 3/4 to it blows up? (that was a joke, I think). kentc
Just so ~ you can figure TDC on # 1 cylinder by watching the intake valve , it should be closing as you're nearing the TDC mark in the window (it's a triangle or chevron) . If you trust your mechanic , we'll be here to help when it blows up . You're supposed to be able to run it all day long @ 3,200 RPM's , I don't run mine that hard but I -do- run it pretty hard and they'll often go past 4,000 as you're accelerating through the gears.... A joke ? didja hear about the religeous skunk who went to Church every Sunday and sat in his own Pew ?
Nate, that one stunk! But i liked it! So by reading this thread, i'm I hearing that a 261 is really just a bored out 235? Maybe i should ask this question on my other thread.
READ The Thread No , it's different . Your overbored 235 will be just fine but the connectng rods in a 261 are a HUGE big deal . -Nate
Found it Hey Kent, I was going through all my parts today whilst working on the truck (so nice now that the weather is cooperating). I found an extra flywheel cover and inspection plate if you still need it. Send me a pm with your address and I will ship it to you. Andy
Yo, Kent You out there? I will pm you about this. I guess you don't check the forum regularly like some of us. I'll put the parts aside for you for a while. Hope you get back to me. Andy
Be Calm , Grasshopper No , I just want you all to be aware so you don't get burned by using 235 rods in a 261 or in your 235 hot rod then wonder why it blew up later.... -Nate
Engine break-in Nate - Would you go to: http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/548e.pdf and review the break-in recommendation. Would you have a problem with after the 60 seconds, 3000 rpm (your recommendation), bring the engine down to 1500rpm for the article's recommended 20-30 minutes - then shut down? KentC
