Please let me know ifin' there is ANYthing that can be done to a 3/4 that will remove the 8 lugs (in front) for -say- 6 lugs. (?) Yes, I have a 54 1/2 ton frame well under way, BUT- I love the long bed look of my '52 GMC three quarter and everything is GMC. Swapping to a 1/2 ton '54 Chevy frame and putting a '52 GMC body on it... well... I was just wondering if anyone knew if you could do something to the front that would allow an 8-to-6 conversion. Any ad-vice much 'preciated!
Of course there is! First question though. Are you going back original or modified? If you're using a 1/2 ton frame, you're already home free. Original, find original 1/2 ton parts, they are already 6 lug. Modified, the sky's the limit. Go 6 lug, go 5 lug if you want to. All of those parts can be had (and sprayed with a rattle can ). Decide on what you want and it can happen!
speaking of rattle cans Zig you'd be proud. The whole undercarriage of that fargo look to be, you guessed it rattle rattle.
sooooooo smooooooth No one will ever know MINE was a rattle can though! Okay- I did forget to mention that I'd like to keep the 3/4 frame if I can change the front 8 lug drums to 6 lug disks. This would allow me to do a few things that swapping frames would not- without more mods. One thing would NOT be sticking with that long block 228!!!!!! No NO- I'd NEVER, -EVER- think of doing THAT! I'd rather not do the IFS thing however. I haven't checked to see if they have one for a 3/4 anyway- Tanks for your ideas on this, all!
I forgot to mention that I do not want to subframe the 3/4 either. IFS isn't out of the question, but I'd rather just swap out the 8 lug drums for 6 lug disks. You can't just bolt a 1/2 ton axle in and go the roller bearing way can you? I was trying to figure out where that extra 1/4 ton comes from... It's not the longer bed because they made long bed 1/2 tons too, right? Help Mr. Wizard!!!
1/2 Ton front axle Hey Zig, I was planning on converting my gmc in my aviator to 1/2 ton. I have a 3:42 12 bolt rear, and was just going to put a 1/2 ton front axle under it, the springs are the same. Also bought a 302 for it to replace my broken 248. Chris
Zig, mom asked me to intervene! Mom wants to know! OK. You've got a '52 GMC 3/4 ton pickup right? You've got a '54 1/2 frame that you are thinking about using for your project right? Now, you're wanting to know different ideas about melding the 2 together into the "zig-zag" mobile with 6 lug wheels right? Here's my 5 cents, 3 from me, 2 from mom. First thing you got to do is figure out what wheelbase you want, 116" or 125". The 1/2 tons were 116" wb and the 3/4 tons were 125". To my knowledge, there was no such thing as a long wheelbase 1/2 ton. Pick the style that YOU like best and we can all proceed from there. The extra "1/4 ton" you referred to earlier was acheived by the longer wheelbase and a beefed up suspension. Compare the spring thickness of the 1/2ton vs. the 3/4 ton and you'll see. Next, you'll note that the front axle width and thickness is greater on the 3/4 ton. Unless you plan to make this a work truck, hauling big payloads, forget about it. Are both frames in decent shape? If so, and you like the look of the longer wheelbase, but don't like the 8-lug pattern, put the 1/2 ton axle under the front of the 3/4 ton frame and you're half way home. As for as the rear end goes, go to the boneyard and find a later model rear end with 3.55 to 1 or better gear ratio with a 61 to 62 inch width and slap it on. I don't know how much time or money you've spent on this new frame you got, but here's my opinion. You've spent time and money on it already. As far as the money is concerned, that's not a problem. You can make more of that. As far as the time you've spent, that's priceless and you can't get that back. Figure out if you want a short bed or long bed first, then we can all help you design your dream truck!
Good 'ol GMC's To my knowledge chevy did not offer a long bed for there 1/2 tonners between 47-55-1. Did offer them from 55-2nd on. GMC's did offer the 1/2 ton long bed in 47 on, I think maybe earlier also. The front springs are the same on the 1/2 and 3/4 ton. Course the rears are dif. Frames heavier on the 3/4 and narrower in rear. Chris
See??? I knew I could count on this group! The only thing that could kill my momentary happiness is if Nate gets on here and says, "What the h$#@ are you talking about?!" First- my scientific way of figuring that 1/2 ton long(ish) beds were made is through looking at pictures. I noticed the bed on my 3/4 has two stake pockets before the back fender begins. 1/2 ton short beds have one. All of my looking on e-pay to see what others have done with their rides has led to trucks that have the same "looking" bed, but the trucks have 6 lugs and are listed as 1/2 tons. So naturally I thought... hmmm, maybe.... Second- The time I've spent on the 1/2 ton frame WAS priceless! It got me out of other household chores! Having to start all over again would be- well- "tits!" And now for the bomb. Big Brother- mom knew of this for quite some time now. My dad's kinda' like some other people on this site that I know of. Pop the hood and see that clean, mighty 6 and the eyes start misting up a bit. Picture a V8 in that same space and this becomes this ! Okay- I know! "Build the truck the way YOU like it!" Well- I've never hated the idea of a 6. I just have my doubts about putting the kind of miles on it that I know I'd want to. BUTT (and it's a BIG BUTT!) You guys and your "been there- done that" knowledge has led me to believe that I could keep my POC '52 3/4, put a 1/2 ton fron axle on it (with disc brakes), swap out the complete rear end for a much newer 4wd rear end (GMC) (with disc brakes), put in a T5 trans for that highway speed and minimal wear and tear to my 228, put in a dual mc just as Gater has, and still do the frame-off by simply rolling my cab onto it's back with it still resting on the frame! (No need to lift and move- just roll and push.) I wonder if my 1/2 ton rear leafs will fit into the 3/4... Not that that would matter a whole bunch... So the only thing I'm wondering is if I could remove the carrier bearing setup and go with a solid straight driveshaft? Nothing would make my dad happier than helping me spiff up that 228. That would be a great memory. Who knows- maybe it would last long enough to find out what will be the next engine we will have to use that will burn corn gas... Again- thanks for all the input! I know there is a reason I didn't just jump into building this, and why God lead me to this site!
Well Chris- no one's said you will die a horrrrrrible highway death if you put a 1/2 ton axle on the front of a 3/4 truck, so it looks like full speed ahead! I wonder though, with installing a T5 and an updated rear, if I should lose the carrier bearing setup and go with a one piece driveshaft? That'll be a cool ride when you get it going!
Drive shaft Zig, I think you might be better off keeping the two peice drive shaft set up. A long one peice is hard to balance. Also just an idea for ya, maybe concider a 10 or 12 bolt rear end for your truck with 5 lugs, drum brakes(lots of these around). And one of those 5 lug disc brake convertion kits for the front. I've read that with the the six lug kits there can be a rim clearance problem. I would check your king pins also. Chris
Yeah, if you need king pins it is extremely easy to carry the whole axle down to the local machine shop and let them do it all. I am having to lengthen my drive shaft by 2 inches. I found out that what they have to do is cut the ends out of mine and find another one long enough to make the total length. It makes since that DOT rules are that there can only be 2 welds, one where the spline end welds on and one where the u-joint is. In other words, you can't splice one to make it longer. If they supply the longer shaft it costs about $100. If I supply one that they can weld my ends to, it costs about $45. Luckily the guy that painted my truck has a long drve shaft out of a Chevy wagon. So, Zig, I agree to keep the two piece drive shaft. It sounds like you have a good plan. I would like to hear about your shock setup front and back and your use of a stabilizer. I need pics so I can get my feeble mind around it. Gater
