Hello, So here is my dilema. I have a 53 Chevy truck that I have been building for quite a few years now. Finally I am ready to get it on the road, but as I try to install a new radiator it won't fit. Let me give you a bit of background: I am using a 1957 car engine, I replaced the water pump with the short shaft water pump, I have the original radiator support core, but as I try to slide the radiator down, it rubs againts the shaft of the water pump. Also another problem that I have is that the fan rubs the crank pulley and it would need to be about 2 mm shorter to miss it. I am sure this is a common problem faced by those making this upgrade, how do I go about doing this? I don't want to have to hack the radiator core support, I have a spare core support (already hacked) but still I can't see how I can get it to fit. Do I mount the radiator on the core support before I install the core in the truck or afterwards? Would this make a difference? Thanks for you help. Antonio '53 3100 Eagle - Idaho
Yes, the fan is the original fan, but... Yes, but the main problem is the water pump shaft seems to be too long and I bought a short shaft water pump. I think I will go down to the garage and take some pictures and post them to better explain my problem. Thanks for the help. Antonio
Don't hack the core support!!! (Beat you to it, Nate) I have heard of this. short shaft conversion pump will be too low on the block and too low on the radiator from what I've read. I have a '58 engine in my '54 and am using a conversion plate with an early ('47-'53) water pump for a 216 engine. Conversio plate is cheap (about $40) and allows you to use a stock water pump (cheap from NAPA vs. high $ for catalog short shaft conversion pump). Haven't installed it yet, but did a lot of reading online and have heard it positions the fan better on the radiator with no clearance issues. I'm sure Nate will chime in with sage advise on this as he has in previous threads. You can try searching the threads for this issue to see what comes up. I believe that I have read that the short shaft conversion pump which you have installed may require you to "tweak" the fan blades a bit so they do not hit the balancer. I also remember reading that the short shaft conversion pump will work fine even though it is low on the radiator and that it is a tight fit, but will clear the radiator when installed leaving less than an inch of clearance. Be gentle and see if you can make it fit with those clearances in mind. Andy
You may not have the correct short shaft water pump , go look at some pics of other folks engines . there's only about 1/4" clearance so it's a bugger to fit up . I deleted my fan and am running a pusher eletric fan in front of the radiator . this is the very best way to go IMO . I have heard the conversion plate (sometimes known as an adapter plate) is also a very good deal , it wasn't available when my '49 was built. I have a 1957 235 in my otherwise stock '40 3100 series work truck . If you get the itch to fiddle with a hacked core support ~ remember this : you'll go batsh*t trying to find undamaged upper & lower baffles so DO NOT CUT THEM ! make up some of your own or buy junk cut ones and trim/weld as needed to fit your truck . Good luck , keep us posted .
Electric fan? I was thinking about the electric fan idea. What kind of electric fan did you used? What kind of donor vehicle would be the best match? Do you have pictures of your setup and instructions on how to do this? Cancelling the regular fan is something that I am toying with. Thanks, Antonio
Electric Pusher Fans Antonio ; (? Tony?) It really doesn't matter , I got the biggest one I could get (for free of course) the more surface area you cover , the better . it should be mounted up as high as possible so the fan blows on the hottest part of the radiator . my truck was converted to 12 volts by the PO , I know they also make 6 volt fans . You'll be wanting to use a relay to switch the fan's power to prevent the temp sensor switch from rapid burnout and wire it live so it'll come on after you've shut the engine off and cool it down for a few minutes , this prevents " heat soak " and will extend your engine's life considerably as well as make all the rubber and plastic underhood bits last . Some folks who don't understand , will tell you pusher fans don't work ~ BULLSH*T ~ Mercedes , GM and most of the reast have been using electric pusher fans to cool off super hot pollution controlled V-ate monsters for over 30 years but , what the hell do they know , right ? . I'm using a Camaro water outlet housing as it copmes with a 3/4" threaded bung in it and a Horton 195° fan switch , these are available from any Big Rig place . Deleting the stock fan saves you about 3HP too and every little bit helps in a 235 . plus it's a bunch quieter , you can tellas I don't run any muffler..... I hope this helps...
I think I have a desert cooler radiator I think the clearance problems that I have are because the radiator that I have is a deset cooler and it could a bit fatter than the standard radiator. I guess I have two choices. 1. Try to sell this radiator and get a standard radiator 2. Try to relocate the mounting brackets on the radiator so the radiator sits totally vertical and more towards the crossed stiffeners on the radiator core support. Has anyone done this? I think it can be done if you cut th original angle mounting brackets and fabricate new ones and spot weld them into place. Is this a doable option? I have access to a metal model shop and a spot welder at work. Thanks, Antonio
If the radiator sits at an angle , it's the wrong one . You must have a three row core or it'll overheat . I'd fiddle the radiator brackets before I'd tweak my truck's core support .
Radiator I just put my radiator in. After the overhaul, the fan slightly scraped the radiator, just barely on the bottom turn. It is a 53 and I think the radiator is not stock (but not sure). So I had to figure a way to overcome. Look down where the radiator slips into - the body framework. I drilled holes all the way through this support, (bottom and top) and ran a bolt all the way through the support through the radiator bolt holes (on each side of the radiator - 4 holes total). Except, I put a nut on each bolt (inside the support) and pulled (tightened) each nut so as to pull the radiator toward the front of the grill. The fender bolts kept the radiator from coming forward too far and now the radiator is about 1.5 inches from the fan. The problem with all that I have done is that the piece that did cover the radiator top and the hood latch piece will not fit right. So I guess I will leave it off until I figure out a better way to make it work. To me, it is a cosmetic trim piece. So goes it with a non-stock radiator in a poorly designed fan to radiator setup. It really irritates me that it was designed with so little tolerance for future flaws. KentC
The radiator is thicker I just found that my radiator is thicker (other dimmensions width and heigth are ok) and it could be a Desert Cooler which is a bit thicker (core) than the standard radiator. The standard radiator is 2 inches thick and the Desert cooler is 2 1/4 inches thick. I measured the thickness of the core on my radiator and it is 20 11/16. I got this radiator about 3 years ago in California from a friend that got it new and never installed because he had a V8 on his 48 and decided to go with different radiator. Today after work I took the radiator support core and mounted the radiator on it and then I installed the whole assembly in the truck and it fits better leaving about 1/8 of an inch between the end of the shaft and the radiator fins. I could intall an electric fan on the front of the radiator (would this be a puller or pusher?) and leave things the way they are or I could try to sell this radiator and get the 2 inch thick standard radiator, this could save some headaches. Please recommend what would be best course of action. Thanks, Antonio
You are right (Always?) Yes, you are right the radiator is not the standard radiator, it is thicker at the core. I understand that you are always on the money!. I might to try to sell this one on ebay and get the standard rad. Thanks for your help and comments! Antonio
Two Rules to live by... Rule #1 Nate is right. Rule #2 If Nate is wrong, see #1. Before Nate busts my chops again (I think he likes to), remember this. Nate is very knowlegable, he's paid his dues. He makes a living knowing what he's talking about, and I hang on every word he says. He may be younger than me, but he's still the best in my book. Thanks, Nate!
Be Smart ! Use this radiator ! . It will prevent heat soaking and overheating in traffic . Mount the electric fan in the front , this is a " pusher " as it will push the cool air through the core . Mount it as high as you can and get the biggest one that'll fit without touching the sides of the core . You're on the right track Tony , don't sell it ! . BTW : Ken's just being nice , I'm an old farm / used car / shop mechanic who had the distinct pleasure of working on this old junk back when it -was- just old junk Life's too short to drive a new truck , fix up your old Chevy . -Nate
You forgot rule 3, if nate really is wrong, its only swmbo saying so! ________ Dodge Diplomat History
One Of These Days.... You'll see my raggedy old shop truck and know I'm just another mechanic like the rest..... I'm going to try and take a day off to-day as my shoulders are killing me from raising my arms over my head whilst working on SWMBO's mercedes ~ the good news is : her car is fixed and right as rain again . The bad news is : MY Mercedes is still in little pieces behind the shop and it's supposed to rain to-morrow so I may or may not be able to work on it in the morning Worse news is : $ ran out so no more chiropractor visits for a bit and they were helpng but at least I'm getting 4 ~ 5 hours of decent sleep every night this week so far... (THANX Andy !) I sold an $8,000.00 + Rockwell axle job on a big Gradall so the axle rebuilder invited our shop to a customer appreciation luncheon next week..... I'm a serious chowhound so that's seet .
