Bed Wood thoughts anyone

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by alabama1950, May 3, 2007.

  1. alabama1950

    alabama1950 Member

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    Need some education- oldtimer told me use southern yellow pine only on bed and it will wont split with age like oak does, if oak is kiln dried and properly treated should this be a concern or is it a myth that it it will crack it time? yellow pine is cheaper but others say if oak if kiln dried and treated theres no issue, any input is greatly appreciated.
    Ken
     
  2. Tailgater

    Tailgater Member

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    I think you are correct in saying that properly dried oak will last. A lot depends on what you want. Pine was the original bed wood and was painted. Most everyone today who reconditions (how's that word, Nate?) without regard to original, will personalize with oak, walnut, ext. It is mostly up to your personal taste. You can look at several in the photo gallery to get ideas.
    Good luck,
    Gater
     
  3. Kens 50 PU

    Kens 50 PU Member

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    kiln dried wood is definitely the way to go. It will make it resistant to cracking and warpage. Like Gater said, it's really a matter of personal taste. Oak sure looks good when finished in it's natural "look". Myself, i'm going with yellow pine because i'm attempting to make mine look very similar to what it looked like in 1950 (blatant end-around of the "R" word):D
     
  4. Zig

    Zig Member

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    Good Luck~

    Finding any wood that won't warp or cup is a trick nowadays. The friggin board's still growing when it's setting in a bundle in the stores for sale. I once saw a squirrel pop out of a hole in a 6X6 and run out into the store dodging shopping carts and small children!

    By the way- it's nice to see how much sap yellow pine can push out of its pores after it's set in the blazing summer sun for a few days.:eek:
    Sealant won't keep this from happening.

    The up side (?) to buying a bedwood "kit"~ If your boards do strange things, at least you have (some) recourse. If you pick the wood yourself, well...
    I don't think kiln dried means what it use to.
     
  5. Tailgater

    Tailgater Member

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    Zig,
    Your post is way more cynical than I expect from you. Let me guess, you haven't yet tapped the box of wine in the fridge. Can I expect your next post to be more laid back?:)
    I must say that my wood was not kiln dried but air dried. I had to wrestle (or as we say in the south, rassle) with wedges and such to get it the way I wanted.
    Gater
     
  6. Zig

    Zig Member

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    I have my moments...

    Sorry- 22 years of carping has made me face the facts about lumber from a store. It all looks so purdy in those nice t-i-g-h-t bundles. Most people think they're that tight because they want the bundles in one piece when they get to the store. Reality is, they want the boards to stay s-t-a-i-g-h-t until they get to the store. The popping of the bands that hold the bundles tight is akin to the popping of my pant's button. As soon as you hear that pop, expect things to go e-v-e-r-y-w-h-e-r-e!:(
    The lumber is still reeling from what it's been through.

    Like treated lumber- They don't advertise this, but I guess since I've been out of the bizz for 7 years now as a profession, they switched what they treat it with and now if you use "deck" screws, the screws will rot in 2 years time! You now have to use a $$$ screw if you want it to last.:mad:

    You're right Gater- I need a glass and I need to mellooooo. It's been one of those days!

    Sounds like how you treated your wood is a throw back to the good old days-
    Did you mill your own? I want to use hedge! It's a really beautiful wood and will look great with a red bed! (and it is a Kansas native!);)
    It's that or a sheet of plywood.
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2007
  7. Kens 50 PU

    Kens 50 PU Member

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    Ken, I don't know if you plan to go to a lumber store and do it yourself, but if you decide to go with a kit, look into Mar-K Quality Parts. They make a very good product. www.mar-k.com If you decide to diy, holler if you need any other info, as i've got some good tech articles from other websites i can share with you.
     
  8. put-put

    put-put Member

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    I like the look of oak, just plain out much prettier. Additionally, pine is a soft wood and more easily marred. I put about 7 coats of clear on my oak, that was about 7 yrs ago and it still looks great. of course, my baby lives in a garage. It's not a/c'd, but....
     
  9. Kens 50 PU

    Kens 50 PU Member

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    Yellow pine is much harder than white pine

    I agree with you 100% that oak is harder than pine, but...yellow pine is a completely different animal than white pine. Yellow pine is pretty tough but, it looks better painted than it does stained. I'd love to do my next project in mesquite! Native to south Texas, New Mexico and Arizona. One of the most beautiful woods there are, and makes the most aromatic smoke for grilling that there is!
     
  10. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Like The Man Said :

    Southern Yellow Pine isn't soft like the crappy regular pine that looks pretty but goes away in a few short years plus it lines the chiminy with pitch and causes fires - oops sorry , that's my country upbringing there . (pine really does cause more chiminy fires than any other wood tho')

    It's hard to belive the crappy wood many places sell these days , like mentioned , it's straight only if you glue & screw it down :mad: .

    Anyways , I like , use and recommend Tong Oil , it's a hardwood oil and is really great stuff (DON'T get on your hands !) that lasts & lasts , no need to sand when re-applying periodically .

    Oak is too brittle as it can and will snap if you dump a load into the bed the wrong way . sure looks pretty though .

    I hope to re-do mine with Southern Yellow Pine and maybe some black stain before I soak it with the Tong Oil .

    Stainless fasteners in your bed are a no brainer , even if it's just a junky old work truck like mine is .
     
  11. GrandpaGlenn0

    GrandpaGlenn0 Member

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    Something to consider, Oak contains an acid that will eventually attack the metal and cause rust. This can be a real problem if your truck is stored outdoors. GM never used it for trucks- partly due to above and partly due to cost. The interior kits for older (pre AD trucks) are usually ash to avoid this problem. If you use oak, please use SEVERAL coats of marine varnish and be sure to really coat the ends of the boards.
     
  12. Zig

    Zig Member

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    By the way-

    If anyone has doubts as to how hard yellow pine is compaired to oak, get a piece of each and try driving a nail in. You'll find the difference is minimal. If you're close to the end of either, they'll both split- unless you pre-drill.
    One thing to really concider is durability to weather. Woods that thrive in wet conditions tend to last longest in outdoor theaters. Those trees with the moss drapped over them or the HUGE ones that live in the NW do great all by themselves. Then there's D-Fir. Poplar is what they put on the outside of my 99 year old house. It hasn't done squat except shed paint with the use of a carbide scraper.
    There's lots of good choices- it just boils down to prep and keeping up with it.

    Just make sure that when you look at the end grain, you install it "frowning". (Bark side up) Otherwise, you find out what "cupping" is all about.:(
     

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