This is probably a simple fix but here goes anyway. My old truck sat a while and when I drove it the right front brake got so hot it smoked. I backed the shoes off a little and it was better but still dragged on gravel. Then I had it painted and all and now I have put the new dual master and new wheel cylinders in front. I took it out tonight and the right front locked up. Luckily I had a screw driver and backed the shoes off enough to get back home. When I initially adjusted them after the new wheel cylinders I went by the shop manual. I adjusted out till they dragged then backed them off 5 clicks. All other wheels are fine. I think I know the problem but I want you guys to tell me first and that will make it an even better diagnosis. Thanks, Gater
As Zig so aptly, put it... "Ken knows absolutely zero, but that doesn't keep him from piping in", so here goes ... I realize you have a 1 ton, which i know nothing about, but if my 1/2 ton had that problem, I would start with the simplest thing. Re-bleed the problem brake to see if maybe it is air in that part of the system. Then I would check the brake retractor spring to make sure it was attached properly and was not "sprung". If that didn't work, i'd check to see if the brake drum was possibly out-of-round. I'd also check the wheel bearing and re pack it. If all of those things didn't work, i might consider inspecting the brake line and then...post a thread on this forum and wait for somebody to come to my rescue!
I had a similiar problem on my '66 Mustang hotrod many years ago. On that car, the backing plates were so worn and grooved that the shoes could not retract over the grooves, no matter how the springs were set. Check the backing plates as well as what Ken says. Andy
Hold all calls. I think we have a winner! I seriously think that it is the retractor spring. When I put the wheel cylinders on I cleaned everything up real good and I suspect the spring, even thought it did not look so bad, is probably sprung. I don't think I have an air problem. My 12 year olds right leg is noticeably bigger than his left from the cadence, "Pump it three times and hold it, hows that?" I think I will just go ahead and get some good springs for both fronts from CP and replace these. I'll have some pictures Saturday! Gater
my 47 did that but on the back. my whole bed was smoking by the time I got back to the house but it set for about a week and they worked fine when I drove it again and havent given me any trouble since haha.
It is funny how these old trucks will mess up one time then it goes away. Usually though, it takes a skint knuckle or two. Thanks to you too, Chiro. While I had them off I did a little pry bar work to make sure they had clearance from the backing. I thought that would fix it but it didn't. Gater
O.K. , Test Time Put your 7/16" offset box end wrench in your pocket and go for a drive ~ as soon as the brakes drag , stop it _in_gear_ park brake frimly set and open the bleeder screw ~ if a shot of brake fluid spurts out into your eyes , remind yourself to wear safetey glasses next time you're fiddling the hydraulics and go order up some new flex hoses , change 'em ALL if one is clogged and holding back pressure . I've seen this many times as brake flex hoses deteriorate from the _inside_ out oddly enough . When you're adjusting the brake shoes , only back them off untill they stop making those " whsh - whsh " noises as you spin the wheel , the idea is to leave a little air gap between the shoe surface and drum friction surface , this rapidly cools the brakes each time you release the brake pedal and prevents glazing and brake fade too . Lastly , I'm sure you know how critical it is for the brake pedal to return up against the toe board with a ' thump ' each time you release it ~ the master cylinder push rod -MUST- have freeplay in it and rattle a bit if you shake it by hand....
You're welcome , I only hope it helps. Also remember : minor brake fluid leaks can cause brake shoe lockup to the drum untill it heats up , then it'll act like a lubricant and you'll have rock hard brake pedal and -NO- stopping power atall..... Been there too , oh yes I have , not much fun .
Took the truck for a test drive around the house today and the right front locked up agian. This is after adjusting and replacing the old worn out springs. When will I learn to listen to everything Nate says. Now I think it is indeed the flex lines deteriorating from the inside. I reckon there is enough pressure from the pressing of the pedal to pump fluid into the cylinder but not enough to release pressure when needed. I did just as Nate said and was ablt to continue. I really thought that I had replaced these lines a few years back but I think that was another AD that I had. Well, at least this is an easy fix if it is truly the problem. Gater
