[updated:LAST EDITED ON May-26-05 AT 10:20 AM (CST)]You need about 3 feet of 12 guage wire, and a crimp-on female connector. Disconnect the NEG battery cable. Crimp on the connector to the wire and plug in to the BATT terminal on the distributor. ( after it's installed in the motor of course ) Run the wire through the firewall through one of the existing holes. ( the oil sender line is a good choice ) On the ignition switch, locate the PINK wire. Splice the HEI wire into the pink ignition wire. Connect the negative battery cable. Done. I used a crimp-on splicer for the pink to HEI splice. If you use a hand type splice then make sure you wrap the splice tight in electrical tape. Oh Yea,,,, Change the plug gap to .045 NOW you are done ! DValentine
A follow up question here for Dval. I bought a 66 with HEI in it. The distributor is right up against the firewall. Is that normal ? Do I need to go back to an old style distributor ? This has a manual transmission and as I understand it you can't move the bellhousing any because it is part of the frame ?
" A follow up question here for Dval." Why do I gotta do everything round here ?? Yes, it is normal. It's ok too. It's just a real pain to get to the back retaining screws on the cap. You are correct about the manual trans. The front crossmember that supports the bell housing won't let you adjust forward for more clearance at the firewall. When I changed my motor and trans last year I removed the SM420 for a 700R4. That gave me the chance to move the motor mount towers forward 2 1/2 inches. Which I did. The good thing is, it's an HEI. Once it's set up and working good, you won't be needing to remove the distributor cap very often. It's a pain, but not a bad thing. DVal
I just want to say thank You for feedback. This is a great forum, I really appreciate sharing your knowledge. Thank You Delrio
>I just want to say thank You for feedback. This is a great >forum, I really appreciate sharing your knowledge. > >Thank You >Delrio You are too kind. Thanks. Remember this is a give-n-take thing. YOU gotta answer sometimes ! If you know the answer just shout it out ! DVal
Something that helps if your wires are long enough or not in place yet is to put your cap on before you tighten the hold down clamp on the distributor. This way you can rotate the unit right then left to get to the cap hold down screws a little easier. The spark advance will limit the movement but it will get the screws to where you can a least see them.
6 Cyl HEI Swap. Yup. It takes a little modification, and I can't remember (of course) where I saw how to do it, but it will work. I think you have to mill off the lip that seals against the block, then come up with a clamp to hold it in place. Or just go with a Pertronix unit, throw the old points in the glove box, and have a great day! Joe
