today me and a friend got to work on my truck and got the motor put back together and in the truck. We got it running and drove it and I remebered why I love the truck so much even tho it got hot and we had to get my grandpa to bring a gallon of water to get it back home. The bad news now is my heater core is leaking into the floorboard. Will stop leak fill it or should I just try putting another one in it. O yea after all the work I still have an oil leak from the back of the engine I dont know were its coming from becasue it hits the fly wheel and goes everywere but with the cover on it wont drip on the floor and besides what 60 year old truck doesnt leak oil.
47Chevyrod, I would take the heater core to a local radiator shop and let them test it. They can put it under pressure and see how bad it is. It may be fixable with a little soldering. IF it leaks like a sieve you might want to get a new one. As for the oil leak, I will yield to those more learned. Gater
Lot's of areas on the back side to cause a oil leakage. Start by inspecting the upper portion of the valve cover on downwards. Hopefully is just a pinched cover gasket. Did you replace the rear main seal ? Also do not forget sometimes oil can be leaking from areas ahead of the back side of the motor and run along the lip edge of the block until it reach's the flywheel. May help to just run the engine hot then take a slow look at the area of leakage and try in pin down a general area then post it back so some of us can see what would be in that area to try and help you.
Good to hear it's running ! . I always try Aluma-Seal powder to stop the coolant leaks 1st. , it's good stuff and won't clog the radiator nor heater core . most radiator shop goofballs wil ruin the core so try to plug it before allowing them to destroy it , it may well just be a tiny pinhole . I'm sure you know you cannot use stopleak unless the coolant is clean, reddish crud in the water jacket precludes it from doing it's job as well as grinding the water pump seals to junk and causing overheating... Rad cap must be no more than 4 # , originally it was an " open " (unpressureized) cooling system . They're nice driving trucks , aren't they ? .
