Hello, I am new here. Hopefully you guys can help me with my windshield issue for my '55 1st series. I have a new windshield seal, and am looking at how to put the windshield back in, but the new seal has this extra "flap" of rubber that goes around it a little over half way. I don't think the old rubber had this? I am just curious where this goes on the windshield and what purpose it serves? Also, I have been reading that the best way to put it back in is to put the glass in the rubber first, then put the whole thing onto the cab, using the "string method" to pull it through. Is that right? Thanks Dave
Hi Dave, The flap starts on the edge of your dash moulding all the way around to the other side. It will probobly take a few tries to get the seal centered. Yes use rope, install the rope in the groove on the top and down the sides, where the flap starts. You dont need the rope on the bottom. Put the ends of the rope inside the cab and install the bottom of the windshield first. I use silicone spray on the rubber to help it slide on. I work from one side to the other, working it in as evenly as you can. Also need to apply pressure to the outside of the glass. After I get the seal in as far as I can I then take my open hand and slape the windshild in till its seated. Chris
Glass Installation You should use a thin , nylon or plastic rope as it'll slip out easier . I've recently begun using plastic covered electrical wire as it's super slippery and strong too . When you load the glass into the rubber , ensure the seam is located in the dead center top . Tuck the rope or string deeply into the groove in the rubber that's where the body lip (called a " pinchweld") fits and have the ends overlap at the top . Set the bottom in 1st. then pull the rope evenly from left and right . Most glass houses will sell you a nifty hard nylon stick that it *perfect* for finishing the lip's lay against the paint without scratching it like any metal object will do . I've used plastic knives too . DO NOT use silicone ! it'll get all over the glass and paint and be neigh impossible to remove , if any gets beteween the glass and rubber , the rubber won't stay in place long enough to install . use veggie oil or other lubricant that isn't petro based so it won't attack the rubber and will wash off easily later . This is one of those jobs that really needs two people to do best .
Funny Nate, I've heard other people on this forum say not to use silicone spray for rubber. I've installed quite a few windshilds with it with great results,doesent hurt the rubber any, evaperates quickly. Quess I've just been lucky! Chris
My 2 cents - even if the silicone works, isn't it best to keep it out of the shop where you might want to paint later? Won't residual silicone cause fish eyes in any paint project? By the way, welcome wolfeman! Gater
Fish eye Good point Gater, I always install all my glass after I've painted. The can of silicone that I have comes out in a foam. Guess I souldent have suggesed using silicone, just seems to work good for the windshields for me. Just my suggetions, take em or leave em.. Thanks, Chris
Chris ; I used silicone once or twice and found it would often get on the glass' edge and make it slip right off as I was wrestling the loaded glass into place... fisheyes too plus greasy impossible to clean windshiled made me stop using it For sure , if it works for others , use it ! .
Thanks Nate! Thats the great thing about these forums and the internet in general, Tons of information. Chris
Kinda like using Go-Jo, slippery as snot and 100% soluble in water so washes away completely. No paint damage an no fisheyes. Really good for pushing sparkplug wires through straight and 90 degree ends also.
Kinda like SOS pads for polishing old chrome back to new again! (Even chrome with light rust) No one ever said anything about that- hmmmmm. Speakin' of new window rubbers- If the rubber you have isn't cracked- just old, why would you replace it? If it leaks a bit, but still looks good, (no visable cracks) what do you do? I looked tonight- you can have something for a couple of years, and just NOW find out things.... On mine, the back window glass had its rubber put in backwards! Oh well.
Do _not_ Do This !!!!! I've been ranting about this bad practice for years and years .... The use of any steel wool typ product ruins chrome permanently . I know it leaves it shiny to-day but it also leaves microscopic scratches on the surface so water and other corrosives get in and in a couple years , that bit of chrome is dead , beyond repair apart from re-plating . DON'T DO IT ! -Nate
In the manual, it mentions putting rubber cement around the outside of the rubber. I'm sure it is a different kind of rubber cement than the bottle and brush. Any i-ds?
See? I knew someone had an opinion about this- you guys were just being kind by not voicing it. My only experience with this was w-a-y back when my dad bought a '52 hardtop to do as a father/son project -before- I got the '50 pickup. I'd set inside that car and look at all that beautiful chrome and think... Only thing, it had light rust. My mom gave me an SOS pad, and I went to town. You're right Nate, it brought it WAY back to life! I followed that with chrome polish. (Probably another no-no for the same reason.) That project was gone before I could see the results of my efforts. All I had to do was mention "hot rodding" and start drawing pictures of possible paint jobs, and the next thing I knew, he was cutting the front drums off of it to "make a trailer". Thanks Nate- now I know. ...rats....
Sorry you lost a '52 Hard top ! Not a whole lot of those left . Didja know ? when Chevy introduced that in 1949 , they called it " The hard Top Convertible " Er , WHUT ? if'n the top don't flop , it ain't no convertible !
Alright, So after a little sweat and a lot of frustration, I have the windshield, and rear window in place with new seals. The front looks good. The rear, something is not quite right. First off, we had a heck of a time getting it in (maybe we did things in the wrong order, I don't know), but now that it is in, there is no way I am gonna be able to fit that rubber strip/bead thing into the groove in the seal. Something about the way we ended up getting it in just didn't leave any room at ALL. So....how bad is it to leave that thing out? I seriously doubt the window is going anywhere, it is in there TIGHT. Thoughts?
Number one. Where did you buy the rubber? I hear that some vendors have rubber that doesn't quite fit right. Steele Rubber is the place to go for this stuff according to the guys on the forum. Number two, did you install it with the seal side towards the outside of the cab or the inside of the cab? I don't know if that will make a difference or not, but maybe. Andy
Steele Rubber is the Best I have seen. Very good quality products and also a lot of Help when needed. I spent time with my local glass guy and like someone said is a 2 man job anyway. He just used soap & water only to lube the deal. He enjoyed helping me work on the old girl and also used a photo of it in his book he keep's to show customers some of the work they do. Only cost me a few cold ones also. I would also agree be very careful what you use for lube is not a area you can fully access to clean proper.
Bought the rubber from classic parts. I've never heard of Steele Rubber, but will have to check them out. I am debating whether to just leave it how it is, or take it out and start from scratch. How much would I be looking at to hire a glass guy to do it? I'm on a really tight budget. Thanks for the replies.
Hey Wolfie, I know from really tight budgets myself. I was actually thinking of using the fogged windshield with the repaired stone shot in it on my truck until I found replacement windshield new very cheap from some vendor who will remain unnamed as it isn't Classic Parts. I like to use CP because this forum is just so great and they sponsor it, but if they don't have what I need, I sometimes go to the dark side to find a part. Steele rubber is the way to go though. Might try biting the bullet and getting a new gasket from them or getting a glass guy to reset it for you. Might cost you a hundred. New seal is prolly cheaper if you feel confident. Andy
