dashboard gauges

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by marks50, Apr 4, 2006.

  1. marks50

    marks50 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2003
    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    Bowling Green USA
    A simple question, how do you get the gauges off of the dash? I read here earlier that it is hard to take the dash off so I'm attempting to wire re-wire the gauges by taking them off. Easier said than done!

    Marks50
     
  2. Bossman

    Bossman Member

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2005
    Messages:
    99
    Location:
    McMinnville USA
    There are 4 studs built into the dashboard that the gauges slide onto. The large round gauge body has 4 tabs with holes that slip onto the studs and they are held on by nuts and lock washers. If memory serves they are 3/8" nuts. You need to disconnect the battery first to avoid sparking the ammeter contacts to other metal behind the gauges. Then take off the nuts. Carefully slide the gauge cluster back off the studs. You need to pay attention because the oil pressure gauge actually uses a small piece of capillary tubing with engine oil in it that is connected to the oil pressure gauge. You can remove this line from the gauge and wrap it in a small rag of paper towel to catch any oil that drips but don't run the engine with this disconnected unless you want your shoes oiled. Also, pay close attention to the temp gauge sender line. It looks like a piece of bare copper wire, but it isn't. It is a special capillary line tat runs to the sender unit that mounts in the block. You need to remove it from the block and carefully feed it through the firewall feedthrough without kinking the line or it will be toast. I had to remove the metal cover over the firewall holder (2 screws is all). The rubber grommet for the feedthrough is slotted to allow removal of the oil pressure line and the temperature lines. You can then disconnect the gas gauge wires and label them so you know what goes on what terminal. Same for the ammeter. If you look close you will see that the wire terminals that go on the meter studs are two different sizes (at least they were on mine) so you can see which goes on which terminal. Then you can remove the gauge cluster with the temperature gauge attached. It is OK to wrap the temp sender line in a circular pattern as long as the turns are fairly large to avoid kinking it. One it is out, you will see three or four places where the chrome ring is crimped over the metal housing. Use a pair of flat nosed pliers to uncrimp and the ring and glass will come off. the you can remove the individual gauges to service or store.
    I hope that helps.
     
  3. PakFanWV

    PakFanWV Member

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Messages:
    12
    Location:
    Charleston USA
    I must say - that was a very good and accurate description on proper guage removal. The only thing I would add to it is that when I coiled my temp sender line around a small coffee can. Kept it very straight and nice and neat as well! Hope that helps...
     
  4. Nifty 50

    Nifty 50 Member

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2001
    Messages:
    26
    [updated:LAST EDITED ON Apr-04-06 AT 08:17 PM (CST)]I would also add, get ready for some yoga moves. This procedure generally requires working by feel or contorting under the dash with the pedals in your back. One whole lot of fun. I would suggest, if your are going to remove both speedo and gauge cluster, that you remove speedo first. It has the same four nuts to studs holding it in and of course the speedo cable, but once removed it gives a little more accessibility to the back of the gauge cluster. Also note that you will find several lights going to the gauges and speedo. They are just single wires going to the back of a light socket. The sockets are held in with spring pressure and just pop out. Good luck,
    Steve O
     
  5. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2000
    Messages:
    11,675
    Location:
    AMERICA !
    RE: Gauge Service

    All good posts ! .

    I find I like to remove the speedo and then push the combo gauge in and face it downwards so I can see it as I work on it through the two bog openings in the dash , this way no need to touch the temp. sender capillary tube .....

    -Nate
     

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