Top end oiling

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by GrandpaGlenn0, Jul 24, 2007.

  1. GrandpaGlenn0

    GrandpaGlenn0 Member

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    Missoula
    Hi Everyone, I've been enjoying this site- both the great info and the comradery for a while-- now I have a question--
    Took off the valve cover and discovered that the front half of the valve train is covered with black, thick gunk. The rear is nice and clean, well oiled and clean. The oil weeps better in the rear by far-- the question is: how can I increase the oil flow to the front of the valve train?

    Can I sneak in a second question? The spark plugs are all covered in a heavy coat of carbon-- except the fourth one which is covered in oil--- how can I fix that?
    Thanks in advance,
    Glenn
     
  2. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Rocker Service

    Glenn ;

    You'll need a big l o n g towel , clean is good , unbolt and remove the rocker assembly as one long piece and lay it on the towel , it comes apart in the middle and you _must_ lay the various bits out in thier order as the intake and exhaust rockers are different...

    Once you have it apart , look at the holes in the rockershaft proper , they're prolly all worn out and may be clogged or blocked ~ there's not much to it , a hardened shaft with holes along it so clean all the spooge out of it , re-assemble using grease inside the rockers (consider re-bushing the rockers and a new shaft) and all should be well .

    If the rockers wobble on the shaft , the engine will be noisier but thatwon't change how well it runs .

    Be sure to adjust them to spec. (see tech tip elsewhere on this board) and then re-check them once the engine is fully warmed up ~ that's critical .
     
  3. GrandpaGlenn0

    GrandpaGlenn0 Member

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    Nate, Thank you. I'm a total greenhorn at this and really appreciate all the help and advice that is available here--I have lots of basic (dumb) questions that will pop up--some of which have already been answered by visiting here every day. I'm sure that you shake your head at the idea of someone with little knowledge and no experience working on these old beauties but it gives a great sense of accomplishment for every tiny success--
    Thanks again.
     
  4. Kens 50 PU

    Kens 50 PU Member

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    Glenn, I refuse to use that cliche'

    You know the one! Yeah, yeah, that one about "no such thing as..."!
     
  5. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Actually , No ~

    As these old rigs were designed to be maintained by farmers with little or no formal education .

    There was a time when I was 5 or 6 with a dead truck in the middle of a field and a wrench in my hand so I've not forgotten how it is to be a beginner , when you have some time , take a look back in the archives as nearly everything has been discussed over and over again , we're a freindly bunch here and these guys know much and are happy to share .

    -Nate

     
  6. 1950gmc girl

    1950gmc girl Member

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    Or you could do what I did... After I put in a hotter cam, new lifters, and the works in, I did not have the torque specs, so I ran the engine with the valve covers off and torqued the rockers down untill they stopped pinging... Ha. ha. I know, this is the total redneck way of doing it, but I had to meet a client at three and what was I to do with only 45 minutes to spare:) It sure made a mess though. I went through three cans of engine de-greaser to get that engine clean again!

    Also... Please do not run your basic walmart brand oil in that truck. Use some good mobil 1 synthetic. I know that some of you traditionalists will disagree with me here, but I run mobil in my truck, and have been nothing but happy with it. I can feel the difference I swear!
     
  7. GrandpaGlenn0

    GrandpaGlenn0 Member

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    Jess, I think I luv ya! I've heard that synthetic will leak pretty badly in these old engines-- I don't know history of mine so don't know how well the seals will hold. I dropped the pan, cleaned out about 3/4 inch of sludge and am running detergent with changes about every 100 miles until I'm convinced it is cleaned out. Then I will try Mobil One-- I have run it in my car since the first oil change and am a believer.

    BTW, nice truck!
     
  8. put-put

    put-put Member

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    Never Let Education Stand In The Way Of Learning (or Wisdom)!!!!
     
  9. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    !! OIL THREAD !! (flame suits on , please)

    Actually , you'll find these old tech engines (and trannies) will drip constanly , they did so in the showroom so no worries .

    After you've done several HOT oil changes (hot,ALWAYS hot !) you'll begin to notice the engine running a bit cooler and the crusty stuff inside the rockerbox (oh yes ~ you'll need several valve adjustments) will be gone , then and ONLY then , use synthetic oil , your engine will love it and it shouldn't pi$$ out mouch more than it does Dino oil and the beauty of Synthetic oils is this : wear stops DEAD ~ so if you have an old , tired but good running 216 , 235 , 261 (lucky you) or 228 , 302 (GMC , dig) engine and want it to outlast you and your kids , use Synthetic oils but , you still must change it regularly as these old tech engines olad up the oil with dirt , soot and wear particles ~ you can alwys re-use the drained Synthetic in your lawnmower , chain saw , M.I.L.'s car etc. .

    I know everyone knows way more than I do about oil so go ahead and begin the flaming , I'll pay no nevermind as I continue to roll on the miles on all my olderly junkers that go more miles than a New York taxi :rolleyes:
     

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