I want to put in an inline fuse from the ignition switch to the new fuel guage I just put in. What amperage does it need to be? Also, the guage does not appear to be in sync with the sending unit. What do I need to do, pull the sending unit and bend the float arm? Or is there another method to get the guage adjusted? The vehicle is a 53 1/2 ton. Thank you. Kentc
Amount of current used by the fuel gauge is very small. A one amp fuse is way larger than necessary if the only thing being protected is the gas guage, its wiring and the sending unit. It is possible that the float arm is bent, but first ask are the gauge and the sending unit both 30 ohm (original) units? Is this problem something that just happened on its own, or have one or more components in this circuit been replaced? What symptoms are you having? Does a full tank read full on the gauge? Half tank? Empty tank?
I had never had a working fuel guage, but I did replace the sending unit 2 years ago, it being a Chevy Duty buy, a 30 amp. You folks went though the testing procedure and it was concluded the guage was inoperative (2 years ago). I bought the new guage last week (Chevy Duty) and installed it Saturday, it being for my vehicle a 53, 12 volt system. I suppose the sending unit could be a 6 volt, if that is possible, but when I ordered it I was on a 12V, so........ The guage is clearly working, reading a little over a 1/4 tank when the key on, no reading with key off. It moves back and forth with road movement (or me shaking the vehicle). I filled the tank not so long ago, very little driving, was expecting it to read 3/4 when I tried it (the guage) for the 1st time - so I think there is something between the sending unit and guage, but what the hell do I know, not doing this for a living. I suppose I could take out the sending unit and move it up and down and see what effect it has on the guage, check the tank for actual visual on fluid level. Yes I know the sending unit would need to be grounded when I tested it. 1 amp inline fuse from guage to ignition switch huh, thank you. Kent
Fuel Gauge Kent ; I've written detailed service notes for these before but in a nutshell : Be 1000 % certain both gauge head and tank sender are *perfectly* gounded . Sender cares not a whit about voltage , it's Ohms it looks for . Remove the sender and attach the lead to it , run a rumper wire from the gauge sender plate to the dashboard and then lift and lower the float arm to see if the gauge head has full range . If you ground the two wires at the sender , the fuel gauge should read empty .
Fuel Gauge Couple of ways , you can run a ground wire from one of the gauge head screws to the dashboard or frame , I personally like to run one continuous long wire from the gauge head to the sender proper . this ensures proper balance between the two and makes the gauge more accurate on older , rusty trucks . Replacing all four nuts and star washers that hold the gauge pod to the dashboard is always a good idea . Using a brass or stainless steel screw In the postion that holds the sender's ground wire is wise too . I hope this clarifies things .
My new guage is working. However, looking at the new guage, there are three marks and an E and an F on the ends. Are the three marks empty, 1/2 and full, or are they supposed to mean 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 with the E meaning empty and the F, full. Or, are the E and F just for simple show and mean nothing reading the guage. No doubt this maybe seem like a silly question, but I am having trouble understanding the guage as it relates to reality. I have pulled the sending unit (new and it works ok), hooked up remote wires (ground and sending unit wire), and the guage is new (12V). I think my guage marks are empty, 1/2 and full, the E and F meaning nothing other than which end of the guage is which. Make sense? Thank you. Kentc
If you put power to the gauge and ground the sender post , it'll go to the empty position , that'll show you were it lies ~ prolly not on the " E " mark tho' .
