Well, my 65 C10 is down to the frame, FINALLY. Now I am prepping it for a couple things I want to add after powder coating. I am wondering if I need to make any modifications to the frame itself. I will convert the manual 3 speed for automatic 700R tranny. Will I need to move the current placement of the tranny crossmenber to do this. Then I am moving the gas tank to the rear end. Will I need to remove any bracketts in the back for this modification. I am also changing the engine to 350 and I noticed that the front crossmember has 2 rivitted radiator support mounts for the original radiator. Do I need to get bigger ones for a larger radiator (if needed). This is my first frame off project and didnt think it was going to have all these decisions. I wouldnt want to get it powedercoated then go back and remove a bracket that I didnt need in the first place. Any information will help. Thanks.
hello crow I am doing the same restoration to my c-10 stepside (frame is at paint shop now) I am going to the 350/700r4 tranny, you will need to remove the old stock tranny crossmember the old one will not work on the 700r, you can get a replacement that will work from LMS.COM or CLASSICPARTS.COM you will need to drill new holes. I dont think you need to doing anything for the gas tank, you can get one that will bolt up to the frame just need to drill holes. As for as the brackets for the radiator I dont know I left mine on the frame? GOOD LUCK!!!!! CARL
Sounds very familiar, You want to get it apart then realize there are a lot of steps left. I am frame off restoring a 1978 crew cab and wise I would have done a little more research prior to sending it out for paint. I have now had the the cab on and off several times to make sure the new motor, transmission, and transfer case fit. I would recommend to set the cab back onto the frame and fit the motor and tranny back into the frame. You need to make sure you did not change the driveshaft angle with the addition of the 700r4. Also the fuel tank will need to be mounted and clearenced to make sure the bed fits, you might need to place the bed back on also. If i remember correctly when we converted by brother's 66 short bed from the 235 with a three speed to an automatic we had to cut out the cross member for the old tranny. The truck now has a stroker motor and still is using the same size radiator that the 235 had, but it might be a 4 row. So nothing changed as the radiator mounts were concerned. Hope this helps a little from someone who is jsut a little further along on his first frame off also.
For most any rear tank with bed fill you have to remove the spare tire bracket. The radiator brackets should be fine but if you have to change them later it should not mess up your powdercoat to do it. I believe you have the answer re the transmission... if the tranny is within a few inches in length comp. to old one, I would not worry about the pinion angle. If you are lowering enough to use a rear c-notch you might want to do that bpc (before powdercoat). While in there you MIGHT consider nudging the forward mtr mounts forward about an inch... to give you HEI clearance and take up a little of the tranny length difference. Just a thought... post us some pics of what you do.
" While in there you MIGHT consider nudging the forward mtr mounts forward about an inch... to give you HEI clearance " I used the front holes on the frame rail that moved the motor forward 2 1/2 inches. Worked perfect. Another side effect was when the 700 R4 went in. I had a high hump trans cover and Granny 4 speed. After I installed the Lokar shifter in it's "most Forward" position, the shifter came up dead center on the old hole in the floor for the Granny. Had I not moved the motor forward I would have needed to cut the floor. It left the interior looking nearly stock and, using the Lokar Nostalgia Shifter, some people actually thought it was still a Granny 4 speed in there ! Val
Thanks for all the replies, I am definiatly considering every option. I actually went ahead and removed some bracketry that was small and that I can powdercoat and bolt on once the frame is complete. The powdercoat shop is waiting for the frame as we speak. But I am waiting on the A-arms to come back from removing the ball joints and cleaning them. After doing everything myself, the A-arms were dirty and full of grease (40 years) so I decided to take it down to a machine shope so they can hassel with it for a bit. No I am cleaning the engine crossmember, since that was pretty nasty also. But all should be media blasted and powdercoated semigloss black by early next week. I'll be sure to post some pics. Oh yea, the powdercoat shop said that I should coat all the suspension parts since I've got it this far, but I dont understand why I would coat the; tie-rods, springs, calippers, spindles or anything that small. I am getting the frame, engine crossmember, A-arms, and powersteering box done but dont understant the rest. Can any one help in this decision?
Bottom line is it will "look" better with the smaller parts done, and will retain their appearance longer with a powder coat. Remember that anything with threads will need to be chased out with a tap after being coated. Val
