When I step on my gas peddal my engine has a slight hesitation or miss before it revs the engine. Does anybody know what might be causing thi? I heard it might be the ball bearings in the card. I have rebuilt it with a rebuild kit and also adjusted the float but this did not seem to help. Do you think it might be a vacuum advance issue? Scottys 54
It could be any number of things including improper valve adjustment which you said you were going to do today. If you haven't already done so, clean and re-gap the plugs. Manifold gasket isn't leaking, is it?
Off Idle Hesitation Or " Flat Spot " This is somewhat designed into our InLine engines but you can make it much better : I see the plugs are done , good . Points gap or dwell set to .016" / 33° ? good . Now , the ignition timing _must_ be set dead nuts to ball on pointer @ idle or it's never going to run right . Timing all good is it ? very well , loosen the air cleaner clamp (never , EVER just yank it off !) and remove it , engine off , climb up on the fender with a bright light and look down the carby throat . open the throttle by hand , as soon as you begin to move the throttle linkage , there *must* be a stream of fuel squirting out the acellerator jet ~ if there is no stream , or a weak stream , or a series of droplets of fuel , the acellerator pump isn't working correctly and there's the problem . The plunger is the most common culprit as it is easy to damage the leather/rubber cup as you install it , it should have been soaked in fresh engine oil overnight the night before you installed it , funny how the newer kits fail to mention that , isn't it ? . kits are cheap so buy a new one and do the oil thing . there should be a BB in the bottom of the well too , sometimes it gets the wrong size BB , usually too small . Anyways , to properly insert the plunger, tip it to one side a bit and insert it one edge at first then twist it as you ever so gently slip it into place . I usually have the float bowl full of gasoline and it'll spray out a healthy bit of fuel as you insert it . That oughta do it , report back here if not and we'll help you sort it out . BTW : in the olden days when $ was tight , (no $ for $3 carby kits) we'd just rev. the engine up a bit more_before_ letting the clutch out , noisy yes but it got the job done . I hope this helps .
Thanks Nate, I like your detailed reports they really help me picture things. I have rebuilt the carb with a new kit but you are rightthey did not mention soaking the plunger in oil over night and so I didn't when i installed mine. I did put some fresh oil on it to lubricate it before I inserted it. I am working on my truck again tomorrow so I will check out the plunger situation. I attempted my valve adjustment last Saturday when my starter went out. I took it to a place where it spent the week getting rebuilt. After a week and $135 bucks I got it back today. I saw that NAPA has these starters for around $95 bucks but I wanted to keep my original starter. It has a nice tag on it. I hope I did the right thing by spending a little more to have it rebuilt.....
Your Starter ...I think so ~ I just hope they did a good job . Most of the time , a starter can be taken apart and carefully cleaned , new brushes soldered on (some have screw on pigtails) , then lubricated and they're good for another 20 years of service . Lay a piece of blue 3-M painter's tape over the tag then cut the edges off around the tag with an E-acto Knife or razor blade , then you can re-paint the starter/generator's case and not screw up the hard to replace tag . Keeping your engine in good tune so there's not a lot of time spent cranking it up , conserves the life of the starter . Don't waste any time or effort on tune up & carby fiddles untill you've adjusted the valves as they're always tight and tight valves screw up performance , starting , idling , fuel economy and on and on.......
