This is the first time attempting this. I have not been able to keep the puller from moving off center. I have two different pullers, one is a combo harmonic balancer and the other is a "t" bar. neither one stays put and will wander off center. Also the bolts only thread part of the way into steering wheel..is this right? Should the puller be flush against steering wheel or should it be 3"-4" off wheel? The wheel has been offa few years ago when a new bearing was put in..so I don't think it would be frozen on. Any ideas? Chuck
O.K. , go get a spare nut the same threads as the shaft has and thread that on 1/2 way , then use a centerpunch to put a divot in the middle if the shaft where's it's all mooshed from the puller's bolt sliding off , now try the two bolt puller again , be sure to use two BRAND NEW bolts with flat washers under thier heads and be sure the bolts are sticking out the _EXACT_ same distance as this greatly affects the pulling off to one side (bad) , it is normal that the bolts only screw in part ways . you need space between the puller's frame and the shaft and nut . tighten the puller's center bolt a bit , not terribly tight and then give the head of that bolt a GREAT fetching WHACK with a 32 Oz. or _LARGER_ hammer , do _NOT_ tap on it ! it needs the shock to pop the steering wheel loose . Once it's off , get a wire bristle toothbrush from the .99 CENTS store and scrub both the shaft's splines and the splines inside the steering wheel's hub untill both are bright & shiny then smear brearing grease on then before re-assembly and don't tighten the heck out of the nut , only enough to flatten the split typ lock washer ~ you _DID_ use a split typ lock washer didn't you ? . If you allready messed up the threads on the shaft when the puller slipped off , don't panic ! go to harware store with the nut in yur hand and ask for a " Thread File " this is a long square thing with four (8 ? that's a nice one !) different threads cut into it , have the store guy show you which thread to use and practice using it on some old bolts first ~ it really works ! . I hope this helps... -Nate
RE: Oh Yes ~ I almost forgot to mention , since I onlt seem to work on rudty old desert trucks that have no horn button and so the shaft is all rusty and really stuck tight , I often use a nickle on top of the nut , the puller's bolt will push against that instead of ruining the shaft and the nut keeps the puller's center (tension) bolt from damaging the shaft's threads if it slips or whatnot . Often I install the puller and wind it up , SMACK it and the bolt gets loose indicating the wheel moved a little bit but it's still stuc on , so I must needs wind up the bolt again and whack it once more , occasioanlly (very rarely) I'll need to repeat this three or four times . I hope you know to use plenty of good penetrating oils too , NOT crap like WD-40 ~ that's trash , it is only a _solvent_ and is less than useless as a penetrant or lubricant... Use Kroil or Gibbs , P=B Blaster , NAPA's Bolt B Gone etc.
RE: Oh Yes ~ YO Nate, Got it off this morning....didn't even need the BFH. leveled up the threaded bolts and got my cheater bar and it came off real easy. Gonna start patching all the cracks and make it look real purdy.. Chuck
RE: Steering Wheel Repair Cool beans ! Just remember : you _MUST_ use a file and open all the cracks all they way down else they'll crack again no matter what . I like epoxy paoin on my steering wheel . I used 1957 Porsche " Seagull White " on my '49 trucks' steering wheel , it looks ivory , just like the old big rigs had back in they day when I were a laddie , it looks _great_ and never gets hot when I'm out working & driving in the hot desert sun all day... Sadly , my painter didn;t use epoxy paint so the darn thing has tiny cracks in it now... -Nate
RE: epoxy paint So Nate, I was also thinging of using an epoxy rattle can for appliances...what do ya think about that? Had also heard of folks using rattle can paint for vinyl or even Krylon "Fusion" for plastic.
RE: epoxy paint Yup ; It works out well , what you need to do is : make up a holder that'll hold the steering wheel in mid air so you can reach all sides of it without touching it . then lay on many thin coats ~ lots and lots of ' ghost ' coats and then wait 15 minutes or so between coats for the solvents in the Foo-Foo can paint to flash off , it'll look crappy untill the 5th or 6th coat then it'll begin to look shiny as you want it . Resist the urge to hurry it , I've done a few parts that look professionally painted and still looking good in spite of regular service and outdoor storage 6 years later.... Wait for a warm weekend to come along as the warmth is important for proper paint flow & adhesion plus drying... Shake the can for at -least- one full minute , using the second hand of the shop clock as it'll be a lot longer than you think , once you're shaking the heck out of the can , shack it lenghtwise , not side to side , the idea is to make the ballk bearing inside go from end to end with every shake.... Proper mixing is important in Foo-Foo can paint jobs . -Nate
