235ci heat riser spring

Discussion in '1955-1959' started by rxpx40, Dec 21, 2007.

  1. rxpx40

    rxpx40 Member

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    We've purchased a new heat riser spring to install on the '59 Apache, but can't figure out proper installation.
    I've already searched this forum, but I need visual aids :eek:
    The manual doesn't cover the heat riser in the intake or exhaust sections. If it is there somewhere, I'm missing it.
    Can someone send me a picture of a properly installed heat riser spring?
    Thanks
    Chris
     
  2. Kens 50 PU

    Kens 50 PU Member

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    Chris, hopes this helps

    This diagram came out of the '54 Truck Shop Manual.

    50 chevy pu 221.jpg
     
  3. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Heat Risor Spring

    Hi Chris ;

    First you must ensure the heat risor turns freely and that the counter weight pulls it open , lube with powdered graphite , be gentle with it as the shaft is easy to snap off :eek: .

    Attach the spring and then wind it only as much as needed to overcome the weight of the counterweight , this closes the heat risor flapper to improve warmup .

    As the engine warms up , the Bi-Metallic spring loses tension so the counterweight can open the flapper valve . this is why you only give it just enough tension to close it when it's cold .

    Originally there were TWO springs , one was a retraction spring that went over the shaft and the peg to hold the shaft from rattling as you could hear it when these rigs were new...... :rolleyes:
     
  4. rxpx40

    rxpx40 Member

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    *Ok, the riser does indeed turn freely. When I had the exhaust manifold off the engine (16 yrs ago) I managed to free it up. It had frozen in place. I cannot remember if it froze in the hot or cold position. I should have some graphite powder around here somewhere.

    *Yes, this is where I run into my trouble. With the spring placed on the shaft in the cold position, the tang end is approx 1/4" just clockwise of the stationary post. In order to wind it just enough to close the riser flapper, the tang end now becomes approx 90 degrees clockwise from the stationary post. Can I 'unbend' the spring slightly to make it work right?

    * This was fun to show my son how it works. I held the spring with a pair of pliers and gently warmed the spring with a lighter. It wound itself tighter by a quarter turn as I heated it.

    Thanks for the help guys. I was literally scratching my head trying to figure out how to make this work as designed.

    Chris
     
  5. Kens 50 PU

    Kens 50 PU Member

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    Chris, according to everything I've been taught and everything i've read, a properly tuned heat riser spring should only go one half turn backward when unhooked from its anchor peg.
     
  6. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Maybe you need to flip it over on the shaft and then try again...

    Maybe the new repop springs are not made correctly , I don't know as I always find a serviceable original one .
     
  7. rxpx40

    rxpx40 Member

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    Thanks Ken (?)
    This gives me a great place to start. I will work with this spring until I break it, then order another. Maybe I'll find one that has the correct wind to it. Say, for the truck's maiden voyage (or re-maiden voyage) maybe we'll drive out to Tomball and come see you.

    Chris - in Buda
     
  8. rxpx40

    rxpx40 Member

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    Tried that. can't even get the spring on the shaft in that direction. Looking at the picture in your manual I have it the correct way. Starting from the stationary peg the spring winds clockwise towards the center. Applying heat makes the center turn more clockwise which makes sense for normal operation. I will just have to massage this spring (and whisper sweet things to it) to get it work for me.

    Wish me luck!
    And Merry Christmas to y'all
    Chris
     
  9. 55-59 TruckNut

    55-59 TruckNut Member

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    Those springs are really hard to get on! But then you already figured that one out eh?

    Try warming it up in mom's oven first.... my only thought?
     
  10. rxpx40

    rxpx40 Member

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    Update- We got it installed. *And* it's working correctly! Thanks to you knowlegeable fellas..
    I had to massage the spring ever so slightly so it would go on the shaft. At the cold position, the tang end (stationary) was nary a mere 1/4 inch from the post.
     

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