What is the special trick/tool to get the last bolt off next to the fire wall the exhaust manifold on an 235 engine in a 51 truck? Mine has little clearance to get either a wrench or a socket on it. Thanks.
Probably was installed with an open end wrench before the engine was installed in the truck. Normally, the end manfold holes are studs and not bolts. However, you can add a little 1/4" thick bushing to move the head of the bolt out to where you can get a universal jointed 9/16" socket on it once you get the bolt out and are ready to reassemble. Some folks frown on using a bolt in the end holes. I've had no problems in the past. Oh yeah.....to get the old bolt out.....try putting the open-end your 9/16" combination wrench perpendicular to the block on the head of the bolt. Put a large screwdriver in the box end of the wrench an twist-a-way. Before I used the wrench I'd soak the bolt overnight with some "Blaster" and gently tap on the head to help disperse the solvent. If by chance that doesn't do it I'd use a cold chisel to apply counterclockwise pressure....not cutting the head off....just breaking it free to take out with the above mentioned procedure. A little heat wouldn't hurt but normall this isn't necessary. Dave
exhaust manifold thanks for the suggestion. I see in your album you have a 235 with a dual set of rochestors carbs. Let me know how your carters work out as I have a simular set up and looking for suggestions on replacement carbs.
Carter/Weber Carbs Absolutely great! After 3500 miles you couldn't pay me to go back with the troublesome Rochesters. I'm running T. Langdons complete setup but using exhaust heat. The C/W's were great right out of the box. I added the fuel pressure regulator (set at 3.5 psi), made some "hats" for the carb tops to mate to a Uni-syn, did my initial tune and haven't had to do any more than check them since. No hesitation, no flat spots, no fuel smells and the autochokes work flawlessly. I can honestly say my engine hasn't even hiccupped since I made the switch. I feel bad for all the folks still trying to get/keep their worn out Rochesters operational when there's such a simple improvement only a phone call away. Even the single Holley/Weber was a 100% improvement over the Rochester. I'm sure you'll love your c/w's. Dave
Dave, sorry to sound some what stupid but am not sure who T Langdon is. Looking for more info or guidance on the setup you have with the CW's. Where can I get more info on them? What pn's, where can I purchase, what is the cost. any help would be appreciated. thanks Dave
Sorry! Just figured that anyone using C/W's got them from Tom Langdon of Stovebolt Engineering Co. He's a retired 30+ year GM employee who has an extensive background in, and love for, the Gm 6 cylinders. Tom has put together some packages which include the carb/carbs, either Holley/Weber or Carter/Webers, the adaptor to bolt the single H/W onto the stock intake or multi-C/W's on a 235. If it's cammed or a 261 he has the H/Ws which flow a little more. His packages also include the bolt-on linkage that allows you to cut off your stock 90 degree bend, add some threads and screw on a ball type socket that mates with his linkage kit. If you click on the following link you can see his website for prices. http://www.stoveboltengineco.com The H/W carbs are rebuilts while the C/W's are new. I've run both of the setups: a single H/W on a stock intake with absolutely ZERO problems....out of the box, followed his directions and assemble the linkage as shown in a picture he includes...he recommends dropping the fuel pressure to 3.5 psi. You'll be amazed at how cheap he sells the carbs......but they, unlike most rebuilt Rochesters, work flawlessly. The best part of dealing with him is that he will talk to you on the phone if you have any problem getting things working properly. I don't normally make it a practice to steer folks to any one vendor, but in his case it can make the difference between being able to trust and drive your truck/car instead of fiddle with something that is worn out and never will perform as you want. I'm sure there are some folks who will look at the H/W's and C/W's with a skeptical eye.....they don't look like the stock carbs but most of those folks also remark about how their cars/trucks were prone to air horn leaks and never could be properly leaned for good performance. After all.....weren't these project vehicles meant to be driven? Dave
Additional info! The parts needed for a dual C/W setup: (This is assuming you have the dual intake...he also sells the repro Offy intakes) (2) C/W carbs (2) adaptors (1) dual linkage kit (1) manifold heat plate....used for either exhaust or water heat. This is critical for efficient operation. (2) Filter/Cover kits. Note: the H/W and C/W has a weird shaped top (not conventional round)...his kit includes the base plate, a thick gasket, an air filter, mounting bolt and a spun aluminum bonnet. They are pricey and a person could fashion his own base plate and set up some breathers for substantially less than he charges. However, I liked the looks of his setup and they highlight the engine compartment. I do a couple shows a week and have had plenty of favorable comments on dressing up the 235 instead of running a small block. Dave
Dual Carbys GREAT thread ! I've long been an advocate of multi - carburation , if you can resist fiddling with it once it's set up and adjusted , they'll provide far superior drivability , power and economy too by more accurately measuring the fuel used . I highly recommend using two fuel filters , one for each carby and _ALWAYS_ use a clear on so you can see any trouble before it begins , carry two spare filters in the glovebox or under the seat . The stock mechanical fuel pump should provide no more than 3.7 PSI and if it's making too much pressure , simply adding a few base mounting gaskets will reduce the pressure without reducing the flow any , unlike pressure regulators . I'd really like to stress the importance of NOT using any fasteners at the ends of the exhaust manifold ! it is critical for it to be able to move as it has a different thermal coefficient than the cylinder head does and using end fasteners pretty much gaurantees you'll have small leaks if not crack that *perfect* exhaust manifold it took you so long to hunt down
3.7 to 3.5 psi I don't understand the critical nature of this. Also don't understand why the gaskets can change the pressure. Care to go into explaining this one to me? Thanks, Bob
Fuel Pressure The float valves on carbys are not designed to withstand much inlet pressure so if you have over 3.7 PSI you'll almost certainly be running too rich as the fuel level in the float bowl will be too high due to the exess pressure forcing fuel past the closed inlet valve . One way to alleviate this is the use of a " Grose - Jet " float valve , it is designed with two balls instead of a needle & seat , costs a few $ but really works well . By shimming the fuel pump away from the engine block , you reduce the amount oftravel it's operating lever is moved by the eccentric on the camshaft , this reduces the amount of pressure it puts out . I hope this helped .
Thanks Nate, Guess I didn't realize the valves were that sensitive. I always figured they kept the fuel level in the bowl pretty much the same even at different pressures. I have a Grose-Jet type on my Model A (works well with no fuss). Leverage on the fuel pump makes sense now too! You're right about this being a great thread...one to bookmark! THANKS!! Bob
Grose-Jet " Two Balls Does The Trick ! " I was going to menton how well they work on the Model 'A' , that's all the proof I needed ~ that engine shakes like a paint mixer even if you have a Model 'C' crank (I know , I know) as my Model 'A's did
Paint mixer? That's a great idea, Nate. Next time I need some paint shaken, I'll just tie the can on the manifold and take her around the block a few times. Maybe undo a few spark plugs wires too. Bob
Mobile Paint Shaker Naw , just duct tape the paintcan to the outer right axle , near the spring and go to coffee , it'll be well mixed when you return Save the clean engine for cooking chicken......
Chicken licken good Reminds me of working in the oilfields in WY in the 70s and we used to heat up cans of food on the manifolds. I remember one blowing up under the hood of an old beat up Peterbilt gin truck...huh, I'd totally forgotten about that! Thanks for the memories.
Grose-Jet Seriously, my Model A buddies swore by these things, but I honestly never understood why until today.
Great exchange of info here, many thanks. Am some what new at this so all of your tips are much appreciated. Dave thanks for your direction to T Langdon's site, I have been there before but will pay greater attention with your tips. Nate, are you suggesting to leave the last stud on the exhaust manifold nut free. I understand the thermal changes but it goes against my common sense to leave it nut free if I understand you correctly. Again many thanks to all for the tips. Dave
Pictures always help Note the open ended studs on either end of this stock exhaust manifold on my 235. Enjoy Jim
Hi Dave Yes , that is correct ; I am not suggesting , the manufacturer is ~ ALL Inline engines use this configuration and it is very important ~ that one time your engine overheats , the exhaust manifold is going to crack and belive me , good 235 exhaust manifolds no longer grow on trees & I know of nowhere to have them welded anymore . Remember : I don't make any $ giving out advice , I just want you alls to have as much fun out of these old nails as I do . -Nate
H/W carb Dave from Florida, You sold me on the single H/W. Been thinking about doing this for quite a while anyway...now is as good of time as any. You'll have to ask Tom for your sales commission. One person you don't have to feel bad for any more, Bob
