Last year I paid $3400 to have a remanufactured engine installed in my truck. So far it lacks so much power that I've been passed by moving vans, semi trucks,and grandparents. It can't maintain speed in overdrive, if I'm going down the highway at 55mph and I try to accelerate, it will shift from 3rd to 2nd. I've had it in the shop 4 or 5 times. It only gets 15-30psi of oil pressure when warm. Today it got a brand new distributor and exhaust, I picked it up but brought it back 10 min later. As soon as the technition saw the tail pipe he shouted, TURN IT OFF! The tail pipe had turned black and I don't mean from carbon. He said he could fry an egg on it. They have been telling me for 3 months that its a used engine and I know there right. AMERICAN ENGINE INSTALLATIONS ripped me off. I just want my $3400 back. I'm fairly certain that won't happen, the contract has so many clauses in it and the company I bought the engine from appearently has its own bashing site because so many people accross the country have been scamed by them.
You need to specify what kind of motor you are talking about and what size motor it is. A Remanufactured engine is used engine that has been overhauled. Reman can mean new bearings and balanced, or it might be bored and out decked with new bearing, rings, and seals it just depends on the rebuilder. If you have a good efficient exhaust system your exhaust should be hot enough to almost burn your hand. The hotter your exhaust the higher the velocity of the air and the better your motor can work as an air pump. But it sounds like you are running way rich, if you know anyone with a exhaust gas analyzer or a wideband o2 sensor they could tell just how rich or lean you are running. But if you run the motor just a hair richer than stoich you should be fine so long as the timing is set. If you have a 216ci or 235ci with stock gearing than its not uncommon for them to top out at ~50mph where you would be easily overtaken by practically anything. And your oil pressure might even be a bit on the high side for a babbit bearing motor. But the more you can provide the better I or other members can help you. As far as legal advise, you may not need any. Technically they installed the motor in your truck and it runs. So it may not be running in tip top shape because your tech probably does not know as much about carburetors as he thinks he does.
It's a 305 TBI engine. American Engine Installations oringinally quoted me about $2200 for the install, then came the add ons. They told me I needed a new starter. They said it was because starters become stressed when turning over blown engine. The old engine was knocking, but it was still easy for the starter to turn over. Anyway they charged me $170.00 for a new starter (not counting labor) One day I look under the hood and I noticed that all the accessories were as greasey as ever. It was like no one even touched them. I also noticed that they reinstalled the old sensors, all of which were covered in either mold or some form of crud.
Pack Rat from what i saw on their website there is a 3yr 50k warranty, i would think from your description it would be covered under that warranty. as for the symptoms it sounds like the timing and carb adjustments are off like Travis said. of course the sensors could be part of the issue too. good luck
your oil pressure is ok if it is at 30 when hot. If when you say tailpipe is black.....do you mean they are blue on the OUTSIDE of the pipe? Where do they exit....side of truck or rear? Blue can be normal up towards the engine.........but not at the ends of the tips. Take a valve cover off and SEE if it is a used engine............
When you look under the valve covers it should not have a bunch of black gook on the heads. It should look fairly clean.
Is this a SBC. $3400 seems a little spendy for a rebuilt motor. I could buy a new crate motor from GM and have a little change left over for that price. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=NAL-12568758&autoview=sku
Yep, just a plain 305sbc engine. I was originally quoted $2200 to have the engine installed, then a week later the manager called and told me my starter and radiator was bad. I told him that I had a good radiator that would fit, he asked for the dimentions, I gave them to him, and he said it wont fit. I know it would fit. Anyway, I also told the manager that the starter worked great and I don't need a new one. He told me that because the old motor was shot, the starter was "stressed" because it was supposedly having a harder time starting the engine. That was a bold faced lie and what I really hated about it is that, at the time, it sorta made sense to me. I was such an idiot to believe him. That damn starter cost $170 not counting labor.
I agree, there should be some warranty on the engine, if it's an engine problem. Oil pressure looks to be in spec for a stock oil pump. 170 does seem steep for a starter unless it's one of those cool little lightweight gear reduction tilton's. Does your truck still have a catalytic convertor on it? That could have plugged....There are a lot of differences in engine rebuilders out there. I stick with GM crate motors mostly. Have had good luck with Gopher remans from my local parts store, 3 year unlimted mileage warranty. Plus I like to replace ALL belts, hoses, water pump, cap/rotor, plugs & wires, and have rad cooked or replaced, so don't have mysterious problems crop up. A little spendy up front, but everyone is happy when you drive through the warranty period (and beyond) without a punch of chicken-sh** problems nickel and diming ya to death. Might have a good tune up shop check and clean injectors. Rebuilt a ford 302 for a truck my dad bought with a blown engine. Complete too, bored, new cam/lifters, valve job, the works. Ran smooth but doggy in OD. Snap-on left a Motorvac injector cleaning machine to try out and the ford was my first test.. Had original injectors, after the cleaning I couldn't believe the difference! Would lay rubber and hold 80 uphill without downshifting outa OD. The machine was sold as soon as salesman came back the next week. I'd better quit....bla bla bla....LOL.....Good luck
Well I aready had the injectors cleaned, replaced the fuel filter(found black fuel in the old one), replaced the knock sensor, MAP sensor, the coil, and crossover pipe. I think the oxygen sensor will be next on the list, but first I'm gonna make sure all the vacuum lines aren't leaking.
Now I'm pissed. I looked at my "new" starter yesterday and found it covered in rust and scale. I paid $170 for that!!!
issues with motor If you are serious about pursuing a legal action against this company, you need to go about it in a more methodical manner. -document everything, especially use, as in mileage on car when the motor was installed and current mileage -take you car the the most qualified expert, and i do mean expert, in your area and have him drop the oil pan, or whatever he wants, and check the bottom end (check heads, compression, valve spring tension, etc too) -basically, a good engine guy should be able to tell you if the tolerances are within spec for what they should be if the engine was actually rebuilt. -stop driving the truck!---the most common defense will be that the customer misused and abused the product--which is probably true in a lot of cases Basically, go off what an expert says from looking at the rotating assembly, not by how much muck is on the wiring harness. If and when you have an expert corroborating your claims, go see an attorney. Often, one can get results with a simple letter, if it has the right letterhead. either way, attorney's fees are generally available in breach of contract cases. one last thing, I used 'expert' a lot, but that is because a Judge is going to place a lot more credit on someone who is 'qualified'. DAMN, I almost forgot, look carefully at your 'agreement' and see if it specifies a manner of "dispute resolution." you may have signed up for binding arbitration. make sure you follow (or show an atty) any dispute resolution clause. hope that helps Beau
