Great stuff! Nate, thanks for the tip. I had not planned on keeping the connecting bolts loose but will now. Makes lots of sense to me! I do have the intake rings and all new gaskets. One question however. Do you typically use some gasket goo or just put them together dry? My grown kids will be here over the holiday and we'll spend lots of time getting the toy running. One has turned out to be a real gearhead so knowing him I'll get about 40 free hours of work Baring a disaster somewhere, she'll go around the block next week (without the fenders or bed or interior or hood or ?)
Steve, Told ya that progressively drilling larger and larger holes and then tapping it would work. Kinda makes you sweat a little hoping you get the hole exactly in center, but if you do that then all is well. Good job. Another original part saved!!! BTW, I have never used any sealer when attaching intake/exhaust assemblies to an inline six. Maybe others will dispute this, but I don't think so. I just checked and the factory shop manual does not call for sealant upon re-assembly. Andy
NO Sealant ! ....Is needed on this job . Just wire brush everything squeaky clean and if you have a straight edge , lay it across the openings as once in a while one or t'other of the manifold warps and give you fits . if there's any deviation , STOP and have it planed by a machine shop , DO NOT think you can bolt it up and not have leaks ! . Remember : the very ends have locating pins , NOT fasteners ! . Begin by offering up the assembled manifold to the head and install the two middle fasteners and special bell washers , sung those up and add the rest of the bell washers and bolts , tighten the two middle ones first then the next two outlying ones , the idea is to apply torque from the center outwards , this ensures proper force application and prevents cracking of the exhaust manifold and leaks by torn gaskets as the manifolds have a different thermal coefficient than the cylinder head does so it " crawls " a bit in normal use . O.K. ? .
No goo for me! Nate and Andy thanks for all of the encouragement and advise!!! I'll check the manifold for warpage and if it's straight I'm sure we'll get her running next week! I'll take some pictures when she's in running order. Of course I'll probably be sitting on a bucket in the cab, but then again I did run it up the driveway and into the garage with no brakes The the body work and interior stuff starts!
Studs Help me understand something...after inspecting my replacement manifold, I realize that the studs to the exhaust header pipe are about 2/3 the size they should be and need to be removed, all per the good info in this string. However, I thought studs were "knurled" on on end and driven in, like wheel studs, but from reading this string it sounds like they are threaded all the way thru the manifold casting...
No they aren't knurled and are in fact threaded studs. Read this entire thread carefully and use LOTS of penetrating oil, torch heat and patience with them else they break off instead of coming out. If they break off, they can still be ground flat, drilled in center as outlined and re-tapped, but it is a much bigger PIA and trickier. Andy
Studs LWJ, just one more comment. I put in a lot of hours over that stud only to have it eventually break off. Probably wasted more time on it than anything I have tackled so far. Unless you really have too, I wouldn't touch the studs unless one broke. The good news is that you can buy replacement studs from a number of parts houses. I was able to find mine at a local hardware store. (they are not regular studs, they are hardened)
Steve - the problem is that when the manifold was media balsted, or thru years of service the studs are not the same diameter for the entire length...
Studs LWJ, now I understand If its off the truck you'll have no choice but to replace them. One other comment I would make. I was on my second manifold since the original one had a cracked flange. The flange where the bolts go can easily crack so be very careful working on the studs. Now might be a good time to hide the hammer and cold chissel so your not tempted. Actually if I was going to do it again, I would try for about a day to get the bolts out. If that did not work I would start drilling.
The Trick Is : To let the heat then rapid application of cold do the work for you ~ if you try to loosen the stud whilst it's hot , it'll snap . If you don't crack the rust bond before applying force , you'll likely crack the ear off the flange , then it's game over , the manifold is junk . Heat the stud untill it's cherry red then rapidly quench it with water or penetrating oil (NO WD-40 !) , this makes it contract more rapidly then the ear of the flange and you should be able to clamp some vise grips (mole pliers for the Brits here) on it and gently try turning it , sometimes you have to barely turn it tight then loose , tight again then loose again , each time it'll turn a tiny bit more as you're squirting penetranting oil like Holy Water.... If you're not handy with a torch or your torch has too big a flame , drop a large flat washer over the stud to protect the flange from direct flame contact.... This job should be done on the bench with the manifold inverted . Not much force is needed once the stud is ready to be removed so if it doesn't bereak free easily , stop and try heating it again . If all else fails or the stud allready snapped off too short to get a grip on , the first hole you drill should be a tiny pilot hole to relieve tension , then go back and drill it out with the correct size bit , you may find that 3.4 the way through the stud suddenly breaks loose and travels inwards .
'nother issue There is a "butterfly" in the throat of the manifold that is frozen in the vertical (open?) position. I beleve that this is the heat riser device, my old cracked manifold, which is currently still mounted to the engine, has a rotating weighted-spring-loaded device in this location. Any thoughts on freeing this device up? Is it a problem to worry about? I'm off to find Kroil. PB Blaster is readily available at LAPS but haven't found Kroil yet...
Heat Risor Valve This is an important part so soak it and be gentle with it ~ NO replacements available (yet) . Kroil , I get it from Kano Labs somewhere in Tennesee might have a website , I don't know . The can of the good stuff is short and has an orange label , called " AeroKriol " or maybe SiliKoil " , I see it @ auto swapmeets from time to time , cost is $7.00 / can IIRC . Soak it and tap the end of the shaft _gently_ , dead on so as to not side load it and snap it , it should loosen up after some time . If the heat risor valve shaft snaps off but the rest of the exhaust manifold is O.K. , don't panic , you _can_ do with out it , it's just a good thing to have as it helps warm up the engine faster and reduces flat spots in accelleration on those chilly mornings ~ you can do the same by revving the engine a little bit faster before letting the clutch out .
A quick place to get Kroil is Midway Arms Columbia Mo. 1-800-243-3220 They are one of the largest reloading supply houses. They ship quick and good service. Kroil is also a good bore solvent for lead removal. I buy the pint cans, last time was about 7 or 8 dollars Jim
