NAPA Rust Treatment Nate, After looking at my bottle of this stuff, I see it is made for NAPA by Permatex. It looks like chocolate milk going on and is thin, but hardens to a black surface, but very difficult to get even and smooth. Instructions say you can use sandable primer to get it smooth. It works great for getting in behind areas because you can paint a little on, then blow it into cracks and crevices with compressed air. Here is a link to the product (item #765-1232), that I hope will work. http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPag...51232&Description=Extend+Metal+Rust+Treatment Bob
Thanx ! I was on the 'phone with the NAPA guy as I wrote my last post , he was trying to sell me ' Naval jelly " (thick Phosphoric Acid) but he eventually found what I hope is this stuff you're mentioning , the price and bottle size is the same , I hope to have a bottle of it in hand to-morrow . I removed the battery tray to-night and looked at it , only a potion has any rust on it , the rest has good paint yet so I mixed a bucket of Bicarbonate of Soda and dipped it to neutralize the acid , bagged it and will de - grease and have a look to - morrow , the bead blaster is full of totally worn out beads right now and so might be just the thing to clean up the rusty part before coating with this <magic> elixir ~ wish me luck boys !
Naval jelly! Is that anything like belly button lint? I've had the same container of that stuff sitting on my work bench for over 30 yrs. I guess that stuff never goes bad!
Naval Jelly Acutally I find that plain old Phosphoric Acid is cheaper and seems to work ever so much better.... I use a fair amount of it . Try using some diluted on seriously rusty chrome sometime ~ it's a real eye opener . Just remember : FERROUS metals only ! .
Acid for cleaning rust I use muratic acid for cleaning things I don't want to beadblast...hinges and such that can't have any grit in them when finished. It does a great job on the rust, but you can't have any oil or paint on the piece. It is cheap at the local hardware store...people use it to get the ph in their swimming pools correct. My plater uses it too. I'm not familiar with phosphoric acid. Where can you buy it? Let us know how you like this stuff. Glad you found it OK! Bob
De-Rusting WARNING ! HEED THESE WORDS ! . Muriatic Acid is bad stuff and you should dispose of any you have unless you have a swimming pool . Muriatic Acid eats good metal ! no matter what you think nor how long you've been using it , it is WAYYYYY overkill and is dangerous to boot . Phosphoric Acid , OTOH , only eats rust and cannot damage the remaining good metal ~ this is very helpful when working with light sheet metal parts that are simply unobtanium . Phosphoric Acid is easy to find at Tractor Supply Stores or in the flooring dept. of most big box hardware stores , it'll be in one quart plastic bottles with " JASCO " on the label ~ it's called Jasco Metal Etch . I cut it with 60 % distilled water and re - use it by straining it through a bit of clean felt (thrift store) lain inside a big funnel... Try it , it's amazing stuff . Wear gloves of course
Sort Of On Topic : I'd like to be posting more pictures but I cannot find a cheap digital camera ~ my buddy in Tenn. found one for $10.00 in Big Lots ... Anyone know where I can go to find a cheapie like this ? . TIA ,
Acids Nate, Thanks for the info on the acids!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Also, would you be interested in purchasing a used digital camera? Things come up all the time. Got a price limit and minumum resolution in mind? Bob
Digital Camera Yes Bob , I would . I looked at a few on Flea-Bay , they're about $30.00 but I've been burned on that site before and there is NO protection against fraud . Then , another old truck guy I've known for years , contacted me and said since he'd like me to post pix , he'd sell me a used one for $30.00 or so , I mailed him the $ , never heard from him again , this after I'd been to his house etc...... I know Bupkis about these things , I just want something small that'll fit in my shirt pocket and use those flash cards or a cable to download pix good enough so when I take pix of projects I'm working on , you'll be able to see sufficient details to follow... I dunno Why'nt you give me a simple job like rebuilding a tranny with too much slop in the cluster gear
Digital cameras Yes Nate - we all have our gifts, don't we? I guess purchasing a camera is like any other electronic piece...first off you have to decide what you need for resolution (mega pixels). If all you are going to do with it is post on the internet, a lower resolution used one will work fine. If you plan to print anything, you might want a higher mega pixels number. An older one is also going to be a lot slower and you may have trouble getting them onto your computer. Your computer ports, the programs you use, etc. should all be considered. This technology changes so fast, like computers, it is difficult to keep up with. Do you know what ports your computer has for accepting a card or a cable? Bob
Ports Yes Nate, just like the whine that is created by explosive gasses rushing through the intake PORTS on a cylinder head. Do you know if it is a USB 2.0 or a 1.1? If your computer is less than 5 or 6 years old, it is probably a 2.0 (that's a good thing). The only other thing you need is a program to run on your computer that will allow you to manipulate the photos that you take. This means that instead of sending people pictures that are the size of billboards, you can downsize them so they fit on computer screens. These programs are either real cheap or free (or maybe I can send one when you get that far). They also allow you to crop, fix lighting and colors, etc...all very simple work. Did you get the stuff from NAPA for your battery tray? How is that working out? Bob
Thanx ! NAPA Belkamo stuff came a little too late , I'd allready re-painted the tray but I have it and will use on either the next tray I find or when this one begins peeling in a month or two I had planned to buy another good used battery tray and refinish it at my leisure but all I found was useless junk plus one barely passable , rusty one they wanted $12.00 + for , I tossed it on the ground .
They LIED ~ I was out junkyarding all day to-day (boy am I tired) and I happened to find another battery tray at a different yard owned by the same jerkhoffs who tried to overcharge me last time , this time the nice girl only charged me $7.95 including tax etc. So ,hopefully I'll soon have it all de - greased , acid neutralized , bead blasted and NAPA's Balkamp rust treatment on it , then I'll prime & paint it , see how it holds up . THANX for all the great help and good suggestions ! .
Or , As The I - Ching Says : ....' Persaverance Furthers ' Speaking my particularly warped parlance , one can also say : Defacation Transpires Sorry , back to the salt mine now .
Potential energy Nate, as usual you are correct and it typically flows from areas of higher potential engergy to areas of lower potential engery.
Battery Tray And NAPA Rust Treatment O.K. , after popping this thing into the solvent tank and working on it with a brush , it came out looking almost as good as the original one ! I let it dry then I wire brushed the rusted spots with a toothbrush sized wire brush (called a scratch brush and sold in welding supply stores among others) to remove the loose scale and curled up edges of paint . Then I took the time to read the directions they said it's imperative to work out of a secondary container as dipping the brush back into the bottle , will start the whole bottle to activate and ruin it for later use.... I lopped a coffee cup in 1/2 , rinsed and dried it , shook the bottle well then poured out an ounce ot two , (WAY too much) , dipped my tiny acid brush into it and began painting the rusty spots on the metal tray . The stuff comes out white(ish) and lays on thick and rough in texture , I had been warned of this but no matter . it says to use long brush strokes , I did so and took some time to work it well into all the rusty bits , corners etc. . it's downstairs drying right now , I'll prolly add one more coat before calling it a day , we'll see how it works out . NAPA Balkamp P/N 765-1232 If this stuff works out well , I may use it to coat the underside floorboards of my '49 shoptruck as there's nary a stitch of paint left underneath . THANKS for the heads up on this product ! I hope it works out well , if not , no harm done .
NAPA Rust Treatment Nate - as you have already discovered, a small amount is all that is needed...guess I should have warned you about that. Again, it works great for using air to blow into corners that you can't get to any other way. Goes on pretty smoothly that way too if you use a very small amount at a time. It will also stay liquid in the cup for longer than you think it should. Bob
Progress Report O.K. , I hung it up on the fence and gave it a medium coat of Rustoleum gloss black , then after lunch I flipped it and gave another light coat of the Rustoleum and a thin coat inside the battery area..... Looks pretty good ! . Fingers are crossed .
