I just bought 2 gal. of Herculiner for the underneath of my cab from NAPA. Is there any complaints on this stuff? If it has anything to do with color or looks, it won't matter under there. However if the problem is durability I may return it. _________________________
Durability! Herculiner has a suspended rubber particle that provides an extremely tough skid-resistant surface. A 2 coat application will seal, waterproof, serve as a sound deadener and is virtually bulletproof. However, using it UNDER a cab.....applying it from below will present two problems. The first being that the abrasive nature will hold dirt and mud and the second and most important, is application. The fumes emitted require a respirator and this product, if gotten on bare skin, will leave a black stain that will be tough to remove. If not quickly removed you will have the stain until it wears off!! Immediate washing with mineral spirits will take it off but rolling it on the underside of a cab without a rotisserie would be a disaster. I've never seen it in a 2 gallon can.....the one gallon can is plenty to deal with for the average bed of a pickup for 2 coats. If the rim of the can has any Herculiner on it when you seal up the unused product, you will have to cut off the top to use the remainder. I prefer the quart sized cans although they are more expensive. (about $30.) Repair seams can be caulked with seam caulk/sealer, smoothed with a squeege and when set can be sprayed with a good rubberized spray sealer. The rubberized sealer has a smoother surface so dirt and mud will wash off and there will be less mess from the spray. If you got a good deal on a larger can and clean the rim of the can meticulously it is a great sealer for cab beds and floors. Check out the seam sealer for patch panel repairs if any, and use a rubberized spray with a respirator, gloves and a set of disposable coveralls. Dave
Stuck Lid The stuck lid problem is the same with POR-15 products and cleaning the little gully in the top ridge of the paint can , isn't going to stop it from sticking fast and you WILL NEVER get the lid off again , no matter what you think . There's a simple solution though and you'll love it : simply lay a clean piece of Saran Wrap over the open can , then press the lid into place and it'll remove easily later on . Throw away any brushes , rollers or gloves you wear , you _cannot_ clean them . Be _SURE_ to buy a NEW tarp and lay it out in the area you're going to be using this stuff in , roll the truck onto it as the drips (and yes , there will be drips) are permanent on the driveway and guess what ? you may think it's *your* driveway but spill three 3/16" dots of this crud on it and your sex life will come to a screetching halt and since it CANNOT be removed well , BTW : rubberized undercoating is cool and all but invariably it gets a pinhole where water gets in and cannot evaporate , this cuases rust to occur where you don't see it happening until it's way to late .
Stuck Lids I used a product called Chassis Saver manufactured right here on Long Island. My buddy that owns the steel shop gave me a gallon of it and warned me about the "stuck lid" thing and boy was he right. After one mishap, I just went to the Home Depot and bought brandy new never used metal gallon paint cans with lids. When I was done using the Chassis Saver coating, I just poured it all into a new can being careful not to get any on the rim and the problem was solved. The cans are dirt cheap. Andy
