Master Cylinder

Discussion in '1955-1959' started by cosmo1957, Feb 21, 2006.

  1. cosmo1957

    cosmo1957 Member

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2001
    Messages:
    66
    Location:
    Cambridge Canada
    What year and type of dual master did you use to upgrade from your original suicide system ?

    Looking for drum>drum and drum>disc or disc>disc options that you guys have done.
    Lots of options out there, but I need to hear from the experts!

    Thanks

    ;-)
     
  2. apacheracing

    apacheracing Member

    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2003
    Messages:
    17
    I added on mid 70s brakes and master clyinder to 58 and 59 chevy trucks using the kits for sale from Chevy Duty. Kept the stock brake pedal, front disk and rear drum. All works well.
     
  3. Sledge Hammer

    Sledge Hammer Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2000
    Messages:
    38
    Location:
    Pittsburgh Pennsylvania
    I recently completed a drum>drum conversion using the CD kit and an early Nova drum>drum master cylinder with 1" deep bore on my 59 Apache. It was a breeze. It uses the stock pedal, switch, mounting location, and return spring. I used the stock lines connected to one 18 inch line and one 8" line from an auto parts store. They work great. Take the master cylinder bolted to the bracket to the auto parts store to get the right connectors the first time. The pedal feels like it drops closer to the floor, but it stops great.
     
  4. cosmo1957

    cosmo1957 Member

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2001
    Messages:
    66
    Location:
    Cambridge Canada
    Thanks Sledge,

    Did you need to run a proportioning valve ?

    I went with a 80's truck master.. havent tried the brakes yet, but I plumbed allthe lines without one? I hope it stops !

    Shawn
     
  5. Rustyoldtruck

    Rustyoldtruck Member

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2005
    Messages:
    28
    [updated:LAST EDITED ON May-19-06 AT 03:02 PM (CST)]If you went with drum/drum brakes then the port. valve is not needed.

    If you get a "mushy" pedal than you will have to add a #10 residual valve to front and back lines.
     

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