Okay, I'm doing wiring and need to know if I toasted my fuel gauge, sender, both or none. I am converting to 12 volts. I put a voltage reducer right at the sender on top of the tank. Previous to this, I tested the sender with an ohm-meter and it read perfect. However, when I turn on the ignition switch the needle on the gauge goes all the way up to full, even without the sender being connected to the gauge. Was I supposed to put the voltage reducer at the gauge head? If so, which lead? Does it belong at the sender on the tank?????. Help...help...help. Andy
Lightly toasted Andy, you warmed the goose but may not have cooked it completely yet. The voltage reducer has to go on the power wire from the ignition switch to the gas gauge. Fix that and see what happens. (I'm not sure if the 12v you fed it fries it, or just makes it read real funny)
I've seen them fry instantly or last several months on 12 volts--how's your luck? Better than a ceramic reducer or pot is an electronic voltage regulator from Runtz. It stays constant even if your charging system is on full output. It's about the size of a stick of Dentine gum and attaches to the "IGN" post on the back of the gauge and costs about $20. If you have a 6v battery around yet or a 6v setting on your battery charger you can test the gauge by putting the hot jumper wire on the IGN terminal and grounding the SENDER terminal. It should kick it to a "Full" reading if not fried.
My luck is GOOD I HAVE a runtz resistor. I just put it in the wrong place. I hooked it up to the gauge just now and it works perfectly. Thank goodness, because I really didn't want to have to pull the cluster to change out the gauge with my spare one now that the under dash wiring is complete. How cool is it that every single one of the original 53 year-old gauges works? Even the sender is original. Thanks Steve and Evan, Andy
Dodged A Bullet There ! Are you # 007 Andy ? It is *very* cool that all your gauges still work , the tank senders usually give up .
