I wonder if any of you have had or are having the clutch adjustment problems I am having. I have a 65 stepside with a very well built 383 stroker in front of a Richmond 2.43 1st gear Super T-10 transmission with a 26 spline input shaft. The clutch linkage is the standard factory type (though all parts are new) with a bell-crank Z-bar and push rods. The block is a '92 four-bolt. I have a 1970s era Chevrolet bell housing. I am running an 11" clutch. When I first installed the engine I used a clutch package from a local racing parts shop. It worked fine until the bell-crank came loose, put the clutch in a bind and burned it up. I replaced it with a Zoom high performance kit. Ever since the replacement I have had difficulty with the clutch adjustment. I cannot seem to get the clutch engagement point off of the clutch pedal floor. There are no more adjustment threads on the push rod, and if there were it appears that the action is threatening to bend the push rod. Any ideas? If not I am going to pull the entire assembly down again and start over. Thanks for any advice. Jay in Virginia Beach.
Have you considered going to a fluid driven clutch ? I know, it dosn't answer your question, but it was the final answer for my clutch adjustment problems... Anyone have a good answer ? Val
Relocate the pivot in the middle of the clutch fork. If you move the pivot point away from the shaft, you will have less travel with more action (and stiffer pedal)
Another Thought: wrong throwout bearing would incorrectly position the end of the clutch pivot fork... throwing everything off.
