I have a '95 LS1\4L60E engine\transmission that I want to install into my '56 Chevy 3200 truck. Cab & bed are off the truck, frame is sand blasted and ready to accept the new setup. Questions: 1. What is the best location for the engine within this frame? I realize it needs to have acceptable clearances for radiator and firewall, but steering box clearance is a critical concern. 2. Will the old engine rear support member need to be relocated or removed completely? Thanks, Roy
RE: '95 LS1 into '56 truck - need a there is no specific place to put the engine your best route is to set it in place and see if you will have clearance for the radiator and for the distributer. as far as the old rear support goes yes it does need to be removed
RE: '95 LS1 into '56 truck - need a You'll need to fabricate new front side motor mounts and rear transmission mount. But installing an LS1/4l60E on a stock '56 front suspension and brakes would not be adviseble. With that engine/transmission combo, your steering must be more responsive, suspension must be more forgiving and the brakes need to stop you NOW! .
RE: '95 LS1 into '56 truck - need a Roy, if you decide to do that swap you will need a theft bypass module.Painless wiring makes a nice kit.The cars that have the LS1 motors have a chip in the key.If the resistance of the key chip isn't right the fuel pressure is cut and the vehicle won't start.
RE: '95 LS1 into '56 truck - need a the chip in that key not only operates the fuel but it also operates the ignition and the starter. if you do not have the proper key the starter will not operate nor will the fuel
RE: '95 LS1 into '56 truck - need a Update: Installed the engine and tranny...no problem. Rebuilding the cab...new floor pan and door hinge supports. Installed 6-lug front\rear disc brakes and power brake booster. (Booster & front were CPP kits; rear was homemade using '98 Chevy 1/2 ton truck parts) Installed power steering gear and new front-end parts. (Moved front shock mounts) Rebuilt and installed '68 3.73, 12-bolt rear-end in place of OEM 3.90. Ordering parts for new hi-capacity radiator, single door-window kit, VDO guages, new weatherstrips\bumpers\felt, new front\rear windows, wheels (16"...old 15" wheels won't fit over disc calipers), new front\rear bumpers, new bezels, paint, etc. etc. etc. This is not for the uncommitted!!!!!!!!!! 5 grand invested and two months of hard work.......and it doesn't run yet.
RE: '95 LS1 into '56 truck - need a Hey Houtxengr, it's admireable that you've done so much in so little time. You state that $5K, when you're finished you'll have a $35K truck. I know what you're going thru because I've been working on my '56 Burb on and off for about 4 years but I'm determined to finish it this winter so I'll be ready for next season. Here's pics of the engine bay. http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=5551618&uid=687113 Attachments: https://talk.classicparts.com/images/attachments/418ce62406b4aa14.html
RE: '95 LS1 into '56 truck - need a Looks good,, Where did you get that firewall from ? Mines all dinged up from some idiot with a sledge hammer !! Shawn
RE: '95 LS1 into '56 truck - need a [updated:LAST EDITED ON Mar-19-05 AT 09:27 PM (CST)]Update: Decided to put 2004 Chevy truck 6 lug, steel wheels (the one's with the chrome face). The disc brake calipers wouldn't clear the stock wheels. Ran into problems - the disc caliper clearance problem was cured with the new wheels. But, the new wheels have a positive offset of ~2". Now the steering linkage touches the inside of the wheel when turned all the way to the left\right. Solution - 1.5" adapters. This required the 7/16" lugs to attach the adapter to the hub, and 14mm lugs to attach the wheel to the hub. This cost $100. for new take-offs at local wheel shop and $165. for adapters (ebay). Finished the cab work now, but the weather stopped us from painting for now. Found decent fenders and hood to replace mine at a swap meet...the old ones were going to take up alot of time to repair. Found great leather bucket seats and console on ebay...$300. Tilt steering column w\cruise...$30. (ebay) Sandblasting all the remaining parts as time allows. I'm getting good with the sandblaster, but I can't say that I like this part much... Swap meets and ebay continue to be a good economical source for sheetmetal, but pending "big order" for all the weatherstripping, seals, and misc chrome stuff looms near. I can't believe how much fun this is...but the wife x( is starting to wonder when the final expenditures will end on this project. mrhoutxengr@sbcglobal.net
RE: '95 LS1 into '56 truck - need a Roy, See you Still pluging along. COOL! Let me know when the truck is on the road. I'm in New Caney Texas . Not far from you . Like to see your truck. :7 Brandon
RE: '95 LS1 into '56 truck - need a Engine is an LT1, transmission is a 4L60E, both from a '95 Buick Roadmaster w\43K before getting minor T-bone. Insurance said it cost too much to fix, so they totaled it. Truck is under tarp for now, having to build daughter's steel-framed home in Louisiana. Dad's are such an easy touch... I'll start back on '56 soon. Roy Magnolia, TX
RE: '95 LS1 into '56 truck - need a I am very interested in your projects, because i am contemplating something like it myself. i have a 55 chevy 2nd series, and am thinking about putting in an ls1 (if i can find one realtivly cheap (im a college student)). I was also wondering about the clearance issues, especially for powersteering/ powerbrakes (on the firewall). If youve got some pictures can you post them? I am interested in what you found in putting this together? Any suggestions as to the order for the upgrades (steering column first or after motor)? Any suggestions you have would be great. Thanks. I appreciate it. Oh and did the 5 grand include the ls1, or did you already have that? Thanks clark thomas
RE: '95 LS1 into '56 truck - need a Here's the breakdown so far: * '56 Chevy big window 3200 $500. - from a rancher's pasture * LT1 w\4L60E, computer & wiring harness $1450. - from ebay * '68 3.73 GMC 1/2 ton rear axle $30. - local ad * Power brakes, booster, disc brake kit $475. - CCP on ebay * Power steering gear $150. - ebay * Front fenders $125. - swap meet * New Rear bumper, V/8 emblems, rear view mirror & bracket, exterior mirror brackets, door seals, cowl seals, guages, dash insert, front\rear shocks, antenna, leather seats, console, stainless overflow tanks, corvette red paint, h/d radiator, new wheels & tires, park light housing, front & rar windows, cruise control handle, steering column, single side window kit, stainless steel screw kit for entire truck, new rear bumper brackets, new head light bezels, stainless steel tail light set, new wiper arms, new chrome grill, front\rear axle bearings - ebay or swap meets * Misc shop supplies & sand blasting materials $200. All the above = $5K note: so far, finding reasonable parts is the time consuming task of this project. Mounting the engine (1st) turned out to be an easy chore, as well as aligning the drive line. Common sense rules with this task. Clearance in these old trucks is like fitting a silver dollar into a pie pan... Power steering (2nd) and power disc brakes (3rd) [booster under the cab] were made easy with CCP kits and on-line articles. Moving stock shock mounts was fun... Hand making the new brake lines wasn't bad. I'm worried some about what to do about ignition...prior messages outline the need for a special "key"...I hope to get a reply message on how to get around this. I had planned to use the OEM wiring & computer that came out of the Roadmaster. Hope this helps...I'll follow up with more detail as things develop.
RE: '95 LS1 into '56 truck - need a Roy, thanks for the breakdown there. did that rear axle bolt right in, or did you have to modify it? do you know if the same axle would work for a 3100? ive been trying to figure out what donor will supply my axle. what did you do for powersteering? what kind of setup is it? did it come from another vehicle? are you using the original steering column? did you make or purchase the engine mounts? how did you space the motor in the engine bay, i know its a lot of room!? Did you just try to ensure enough spacing between the firewall, or what? Thanks for your reply, sounds like your rebuild is very much like the one i hope to (ONE DAY) accomplish. congrats. clark
RE: '95 LS1 into '56 truck - need a My '68 GMC rear end is a direct replacement as far as width for both 3100 & 3200 series trucks. I had to weld spring mounts and disc brake attachment plates onto it. I'm told that Chevy & GMC 12-bolt '60-'69 rear ends are all a direct fit for the ole '55-'59 trucks. Power steering was a bit more complicated. I decided that I wanted to use the stock p/s pump that came with my LT1, so I purchased an 805 p/s gear and an '80's Chevy van steering column. Mounting the gear required a CCP kit and, welding - read here: http://www.classictruckshop.com/Tilt_Column_Brake.asp Mounting the steering column is covered here: http://www.classictruckshop.com/t1.asp Engine mounts are stock, but the frame mounts are 1/2" steel plates that were welded onto the frame. Homemade, and overdone for strength (and it boxed the frame in this area too). Spacing is easy with this much room to spare. Before I took the cab off the frame, we marked the frame rails were the firewall ended. We also made a cardboard template of the firewall. Then we removed the cab, sandblasted & painted the frame. We aligned frame markings with the template, then suspended the motor in place. Drive train alignment is important, as well as location of the motor itself. Read this: http://www.classictruckshop.com/driveline.asp So, there's the rundown on that. By the way, do not think I'm inventing this stuff up. My brother Bill, and his best friend Dave, do this for a living...Shadetree Restorations in New Braunfels, TX. They specialize in restoring '50-'59 Chevy trucks. I'm just using their experience & garage for my project. Sadly, I must admit that I have failed to get them to donate any funds towards parts-n-pieces...
RE: '95 LS1 into '56 truck - need a Hi Roy I have a 1955 2nd series also, I installed a 2000 LS1 with the automatic transmission out of a Z-28. The motor was complete with alternator, power steering, AC. It looks like it was made for the 1955 frame. I fabicated the front mounts and made the transmission mount. The motor and trans were moved 1" forward. This gave me more then enough room front and back.I've got a alum. cross flow radiator out of a 67 chevelle, (Ron Davis) fits like a glove. The existing power steering pump hooked right up ot the 92 Ford mustang power rack and pinon. If you are interested I can post some pic's.
photos? '95 LS1 into '56 truck - n Hello Mike, good post. I am working on a Vortec (LS1 w/ iron block) w/ auto tranny (donor '05 Avalanche) installation on my '58. I'd appreciate it if you'd post a couple photos re tranny mount, engine mount and radiator. I have a Mustang 2 front suspension installed, 4-bar rear with 3.25 Currie rear end. Engine will go in this spring. Best, David
RE: photos? '95 LS1 into '56 truck Attached is a picture of how the transmission was supported. Basically we moved the existing frame member, that supported prior 3-speed transmission, towards the rear just enough to position it exactly were the 4L60E mounts required it. We welded a spacer to create the proper drive angle for the driveline. The picture also shows the power brake booster mounted. The "desert cooler" radiator uses the stock mounting bracket assembly. The engine mounts were (3" x 5") 3/8" steel plates that were (cut, drilled, and mounted) to fit stock engine motor mounts, (3" x ~5") 3/8" plates welded to the frame, and finally when the drive line was all lined up, we welded cut-to-fit 2" pipe between the two 3/8" plates. I don't plan to ever remove the motor mounts from the frame... Attachments: https://talk.classicparts.com/images/attachments/43b81db2096cd9c6.jpg
It's been a while since my last update. $, honey-do's, and life in general has slowed my "hobby" down...til now. I have decided that I want the gas tank out of the cab. (no brainer) I have also decided to use the OEM gas fill location, along with an inner-frame gas tank right behind the brake booster...runing along the frame until just before the rear axle and shocks. This is not the easy location, but I want to use the spare tire cavity for an accessable tool box. (the cab doesn't allow for much storage space). Anyone out there tried this before? Is there a stock tank or fuel cell that I can adapt?
