Hi everyone, My project (1950 3100) has been on hold for some time, I am now re-assessing my goals with it and that brings me to the first item concerning useability. My passenger door operates perfectly, but the driver side out side handle does not engage the door latch at all(the inside handle works fine. I found the replacement latch for $35-40 but I'm considering aftermarket upgrades. Anyone got some experience with the replacement latches? Do the power lock conversions work with the stock latches? Have any of you switched to the aftermarket "Bear Claw" type latches? Does anyone sell an all-in-one kit for adding power windows and locks all at the same time? While I'm at it, how about upgraded the wire harness? I'm running a patched together harness from a 72 Impala, while it is an upgrade over stock, it's not perfect and I want to add lots of electrical lights, radio, heat A/c , power locks/windows. I'm in the St. Louis area so if anyone out there has done any power lock/window work on a similar truck I'd like to see it and hear your input. -Shawn
I got rid of my vent windows, put in a one piece glass kit, added power lift from southern rods. best price at a Goodguys store, but open the package before you leave. I too am searching for a new latch sytem that can be locked electricaly, I found a new style bear claw that can be locked, the old ones cannot, hence you have to put in the remote open door, do a web search for bear claw latches. As to wire, I went with the EZWire kit, good basic 21 circuit 18 fuse set, for everything you will need and then some. Wires are all black, but marked every 5 inchs as to where they go. Took me two days to install it by my self, Generator, A/C, power seats, windows, antennae, you name it, it was there,and had a connector for either type of Gm tilt wheel.
Thanks for the reply I had looked at the EZ wire kit but had not heard anything good bad or indifferent about it. I had only heard good things about the Painless harness and their customer service. I'll look into the Southern rods stuff. Thanks again for the info! -Shawn
Howziit Shawn 50 3100! JMO, if the inside door handle opens the door, it's may not be the latch. you need to remove the door panel, and the outside door handle; more than likely, the part connecting the outside handle is not properly actuating(pushing)the latch.(maybe it just needs adjusting/repositioning.) sorry, i don't have my truck manuals yet; hence the non-specific terms. Myron
> Howziit Shawn 50 3100! JMO, if the inside door handle >opens the door, it's may not be the latch. sorry about advising before actually digging into the door. while changing my door locks, i removed one latch to inspect it. the outside door lock directly contacts the latch. you would have to remove/inspect the latch,for a prognosis. Myron
Actually, I already tore the door down. I thought I had replied to this post after got into the door.. but I now remember my computer locking up as soon as I tried to reply.. I had to get to work and did not have time to re-boot. The piece where the outer handle slips into the latch was busted. Also the flat spot on the bottom of the latch that houses the locking cam and slides against the striker was worn, so the original has to be replaced. I have a spare passenger side latch, but not a driver side one. I also have some small bear claw style latches, but the mountng plates for them will not work on my truck. I am considering making new plates or buying other latches and plates that would work. That still leaves me having to find a way to activate the latches with the original handles (inside and out). Again, it brings up the debate of wether I should buy replacement stock style or go with electric...... One way or the other I want both doors to lock and to be able to operate them both from inside or outside. I guess I could shave the handles and use a remote. Maybe I could weld a cross bar on the outside handle stem(in the door), then mount another keyed lockset with a tang welded on it so when it is "locked" the new tang prevents the outside handle from rotating and releasing the latch. I will have to go back and look at the mechanics of that set of latches I have and the available space for drilling and mounting another lockset. Later, -Shawn
One way or the other I want both doors to >lock and to be able to operate them both from inside or >outside. Maybe I could weld a cross bar on the outside >handle stem(in the door), then mount another keyed lockset >with a tang welded on it so when it is "locked" the new tang >prevents the outside handle from rotating and releasing the >latch. Howziit Shawn 50 3100! i installed new matching door locksets; i noticed that if i lock from the inside, i am unable to lock/unlock from the outside.(but that's not a problem for me.) i don't think you need that welded tang. Myron
I believe you can turn the passenger side outside handle upside down and use it on the drives side, maybe? Or maybe it was use the inside part only, anyhow, if you need the outside handle, I have a used one you can have.
I think the handles can be swapped... but the latches are completely different. I have three outer handles four or five inside handles and at least three window cranks. I also have two good inner latches for the passenger side! I'm now thinking of welding the outside handles in place so they cannot rotate. Then using a shaved handle door kit for the remote power locks. -Shawn
You are on the right track, check out VW and Audie latches at the Junk yard, get the whole thing, solinoids, switches cables inside handle/release, you can modify the stock outside with some minor lever work becase you have to push in and the Audi latch does as well. If you go for the shave look, just cut the inner rod off the door button add a spring and watch the faces of those that wear out their thumbs trying to open it. Wilma
