Hard start problem.

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by fasteddie1017, Jun 1, 2008.

  1. fasteddie1017

    fasteddie1017 Member

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    I finally got to the point in my 53 Chevy build to start it up and test drive it. The motor started with no problem and ran like a champ. I backed the truck out of my driveway and turned around and pulled back in. After checking for leaks, proper oil pressure , temperature, etc, I shut it off. After a few minutes, I tried to start it again and the starter groaned like it was hanging up or dragging. I had to let the motor sit for about 30 minutes before it would start again. The starter then turned normally. Its a 350 Chevy, basically stock. Any ideas? Could the starter be too close to the headers, or could this be a timing issue or something else? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, fasteddie1017
     
  2. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    First thing is to ensure the bettery ground cable is attached to the engine , not the frame .

    Then check your timing etc. .

    often the starter needs a sheet metal heat shield as the heat soak kills them .

    Sometimes it's as simple as needing dis assembly , cleaning and re - greasing with good high temp Moly based grease...
     
  3. fasteddie1017

    fasteddie1017 Member

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    Thanks for the info. I have a heat shield around the starter which is a rebuilt AutoZone one. (maybe thats the problem?). I will check my grounds and then the timing. The battery is grounded to the motor, but I will check it anyway. Many Thanks. I will let you know what happens.
     
  4. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Basic Checks

    If you _know_ it's going to groan and not spin when hot , have a buddy handy and open the hood , grab the battery cable midway and have him/her crank it , if the cable warms up whilst the starter is groaning and not cranking well , there's a problem inside the starter , just retrun it and say " it's bad " don't elaborate .

    If the battery cables are thin like your pinkie finger , they're crap even if the truck starts O.K. ~ special order up some 1 gauge ones and it'll start easily even with a poor battery .

    If either cable has one of those add a clamp things , it's trash junk it now and replace with a good 1 gauge cable .

    Used cables are O.K. if you're on a budget , gotta be thick like your thumb though and no broken strands , abrasions etc. .

    I still do farm repairs and when done correctly , you don't $pend much $ and it works perfectly .
     
  5. shooter2

    shooter2 Member

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    If you have a way to solder the ends on, welding cable works best. lots of small wire strands.

    Jim
     
  6. fasteddie1017

    fasteddie1017 Member

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    Thanks guys for the tips. I'll try everything you mentioned and see what happens. I hope its that simple.
     
  7. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Amazingly , it usually is ~ these are old tech , dead simple machines and most often there's a buncha small things that preclude easy starting , replace the cables then do a tune up , I find most owners insist the valves are fine when in fact they're tight and this gaurantees hard starting that gets worse as the temperature rises....

    I make up my own battery cables using 0 Ga. welding cable with soldered on ends ~ works like a champ , every time .

    Then set dwell (points gap) ' Just So ' , adjust ignition timing , be sure to use solid core plug wires and NON resistor spark plugs , then your clapped out engine with 68 # per cylinder suddenly is easy to start and run strong again :)
     
  8. fasteddie1017

    fasteddie1017 Member

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    Checked and cleaned battery terminals and installed new ground cable to engine. Hard start problem solved!!! Thanks everyone who responded!!!
     

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