wood finnish

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by gmcman1965, Jun 5, 2008.

  1. gmcman1965

    gmcman1965 Member

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    i don't have the wood yet, but was looking down the road closer to being able to drive the truck, and was woundering about the best way to protect the wood (new oak) . anybody's opinion would be helpful
     
  2. Chiro

    Chiro Member

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    I used the pine kit from CP. Painted it with black oil based exterior house paint thinned out with mineral spirits. Then immediately wiped it off. Looks like black stain just like out of the factory. Then finished it with 7 or so coats of McCloskey's Man 'O War exterior marine grade spar varnish in satin finish (plenty glossy, but not too shiny). Look at my recent thread entitled "as requested" and you can see the finished product. Click the link below. It's not a close up, but if you want I can take a closer pic to show you what a great job the kids did finishing the wood. Make sure you seal all sides of the wood including the ends.

    https://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=8371

    Andy
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2008
  3. Zig

    Zig Member

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    Here's what ya need to do~

    Check the archives!;)

    You might start a small feud over which is the best way to go. There are MANY excellent posts that cover this. I think you'll find it well worth your while to do a search on this.

    Good luck! I wish I was at this stage...:(
     
  4. Kens 50 PU

    Kens 50 PU Member

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  5. gmcman1965

    gmcman1965 Member

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    i tried looking up wood finnish and got no matches. what other captions might get desired info?
     
  6. Kens 50 PU

    Kens 50 PU Member

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    Try this site

    www.mar-k.com

    Lots of good info.
     
  7. coilover

    coilover Member

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    If you clear coat don't use urethane clear from Home Depot or a paint store, it tends to yellow, crack, and peel after a few years exposed to UV rays. We use regular automotive clear coat which is a bit higher in cost but was designed for exposure to the elements. The afore mentioned marine finishes are also good.
     
  8. gafcob

    gafcob Member

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    www.mar-k.com...Just what Ken said..They have the results from testing...in the Oaklahomer sun and weather..Not good results I might add, What ever you decide to do for a finish..Make sure you wipe of all water that gets on your new bed after it rains, you wash, ect...Whats funny is from what I saw from their testing is that Behr exterior paint held up the best..... it was an oil....the color they tested was Black...It actually looked pretty good...if you like Black..Ken and Andy nailed it down..I like the Idea of thinning it..you kinda make your own stain////Mike G
     
  9. Chiro

    Chiro Member

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    Nate speaks about soaking the boards in some kind of kerosene, linseed oil and lamp black preparation. Says it was how they were done from the factory and gives it that original nice black look. Old wood threads can be found by searching "bed wood". You'll probably have better luck with that search.

    Andy
     
  10. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    As Andy said , search under " bed wood " (and get your mind out of the gutter) ~ the singlemost important thing is to fully cover the wood , including the ends and inside the bolt holes and so on .

    Thinning whatever you decide to use , ensures it'll soak in . I'd never wipe off the excess as I want it to penetrate really well , this pays off in years to come .

    All those fancy - schmancy interior urethane etc. floor products , will crap out shortly from the sun's U.V. rays , even if you keep it in the garage .

    The correct wood to use is Southern hard pine , not the nice pine you get from the local wood supplier ~ yes , it makes a big differance so take the time to order up the correct stuff .

    Buying a pre drilled and routed bed wood kit is easier unless you're handy with wood working , then I'd think you'll enjoy the hands on aspect of buying planks and trimming to suit .
     
  11. willardgreen

    willardgreen Member

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    floor wood

    If you could find quarter sawn pine, it would be worth the trouble. You would have to get it from someone who demolishes old buildings. If you cant get quarter sawn wood be sure you turn the face of the boards up. The face of the board is the way it grew on the tree. The outside of the tree would be the face and can be identified by looking at the end of a board. The growth rings should face to the top of the deck like a frown:( if they are turned up like a smile:) the boards will cup and not shead water. What ever wood you use be sure to coat the bottom and ends of the boards. I have used Minwax Spar varnish with UV protection. Water White varnish will not turn amber when exposed to light and age.
     

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