BANJOMAN my 66 is lowered 6 inches and is a long bed. you can see it in my avatar. hey dennis, what did you use for a 1" lowering block on the rear. my 66 still has a rake to the back and i definetly want to get her level. i think i can go 1" lower before a cnotch. doesnt matter thou, ill cnotch if i have to.
Correct Parts Hey, dv, I did what you suggested but emailed instead of calling Early Classics and they were very helpful. He said I could use my 66 spindles on the later model A-arms but I would have to use the 66 ball joints, and I could also use the 66 steering parts but if I was going to have power steering I would have to use a power steering pittman arm. I am waiting on a reply to see if he meant a 66 power steering pittman arm or if I can use the 73. I have always liked Early Classics, I will be buying most if not all of my parts from them. Thanks everyone for the very important information you have provided me with it has been helpful. Thanks again BB
Hey Joe, I found out I could use them I would just have to change back to 66 ball joints, bummer my ball joints are all new for the 73 front end. Joe what is the Chevy Only Oklahoma Chapter See Ya. BB
Dino, the guy i got the Chevy only stickers from, made his own logo and as he sent the stickers out those of us who got them put Chevy only and our state chapters in our sig. think I'm the only one in Ok with them as of yet. nothing official, just seeing how many states he could get his stickers too. he even sent some to New Zealand!!! here is the linky
when you get the power steering gear off a donor truck, keep the pitman arm thats on it and use it, according to the rez coversion kit instructions thats what your suppost to do. thats what all of us that have already done the conversion have done and it works perfect.
Hey billy you wanna sell me your newer ball joints? I have some stock '64 stuff if you need it, not sure of the condition
Thanks 66 Kustom That's what I thought, but I was not sure. I already have the pittman arm off of the 73, thanks. BB
Hey Joe I know that I can get the top ones out because they have been bolted in, but I know if the lower ones press in how do you remove them without tearing them up. I would be willing to trade you if you have any of the steering parts off your 64, like the center link and adjusting sleeves (that goes with the inner and outer tierod ends) I need those parts and I will probably buy new inner and outer stuff, only one problem I don't know when I will get my truck home to be able to tear it down, but if your not in too much of a hurry we might be able to trade. Thanks BB
you have to press the old out and press the new in, if you dont have a ball joint press tool you can take it to a machine shop and they can press them out and the new ones in. (assuming you have the lower arm off the truck) or you could rent the tool if you dont want to have to buy one. they take a hell of alot of arm strength to do by hand, much easier with a impact gun and some air. if your tops are bolted in, they have been replaced before. the origanal tops were riveted in.
Ball joints Yea, the control arms are 73 models with new ball joints thats why their bolted in but in order to use my lowered 66 spindles I have to change to 66 ball joints I just didn't know if I could replace the lower ones without tearing them up. Maybe they won't be too hard to get out since they were replaced not too long ago and weight has not been applied to them yet. Thanks BB
Thanks I will Didn't you have a picture of your truck's engine compartment showing a new brake booster and master cylinder, where did you get it. BB
