I have a '54 3100 I am converting to 12 volt. I am having problems finding a 12 volt starter soleniod for my original starter. Does any one have a part# and supplier for this? Thanks
My 55 also had a foot starter. However, I just rebuilt the 235 out of a '62 and it had the key starter, and it looked original, fit the engine well. I converted my 55 to 12 volt, and was told to leave the starter alone, it will work fine on six volts. Just don't crank it for an extended time. That was four years ago, and it stiil starts great. Also, the 55 starter fit just fine on 62 block, so I would have to think that the 62 starter would fit the 55 block just as well. I don,t think that there were any differences between the later 216 and the early 235 (6 volt) although if you get back far enough there were some flywheel differences.
I went through the same thing. My truck was originally a 3 speed on the column and my dad had converted it to 12V years ago. The foot stomp starter had no trouble at all. A couple of years ago, I switched over to hydra-matic driveline which had solenoid start. Several people told me not to worry about it but the local starter/alternator shop told me that a 6V solenoid on 12V would hit the flywheel too hard and be rough on the teeth. I took the 6V solenoid down and they matched it up to the point that all I had to do was slot one set of the mounting holes.
I have a 235 with a hydromatic. I have a key switch with a push button start. Do you have the part # for the soleniod that needed to be sloted?
I was afraid you would ask me that. No I don't. Sorry...I just took the starter down to the local shop.
6V solenoid on 12V system ...Bendix slamming ring gear...Hmmm. Seems like I remember that from another thread a long time ago. Andy
Slamming Ring Gear I just look in the " Buyer's Guide " (pictorial catalog) and match one up , the original 6 volt starter cares not a whit about 12 volts and will last a long long time unless you kill it . I thought I'd posted the correct NAPA / Wchlin P/N some time ago but I don't know how to search it.... As Andy said , just take the old solenoid to any Auto Electric Shop ('phone book) and they should be able to match one up for you....
Replace all bulbs, put a runtz on the fuel guage, buy a NAPA IC64 coil (internal resistor-no ceramic resistor on the firewall) and don't worry about the starter. A auto electric shop can convert your generator to 12 v. for about $135.
since i use to rebuild starters i know what kills them the quickest. Heat.... since the armature is soldered in. if you hold that peddle (or key) too long the solder weeps out and the armature is done... this is even more dangerous with the 6 to 12 volt so be gentle your starter will get hot twice as fast... GT
runtz on the fuel guage ? What the heck is a ' runtz ' ? One item I did not know I had to do Where do I install the ' runtz ' ? Bill
The Runtz Resistor ...Is available from 5th Avenue Auto parts and is used to prevent 12 volts from frying the 6 volt fuel gauge . Only the fuel gauge needs protection , the ammeter doesn't care a whit about voltage and the temp. & oil press. gauges are both mechanical . Better yet is a voltage regulator from RadioShack etc. that is a little chip deal they're super cheap too but I've not yet found out which one suits out oldies .
I'm still looking for the 12 volt seloniod NAPA was not much help I'll keep trying. Where does the gas gauge resistore get located? Between the sender and the gauge or the key switch and the gauge? Will one larger resistor from Classic Parts take care of the Heater and the radio? or do I need two? Will a 6 volt cig lighter work with 12 volts? I am putting in a 12 volt petronics electronic ignition unit to replace the points. Do I still need a resitior at the coil ? Wow, so many questions!!! Thanks in advance
The resistor is for the coil, that is why I reccommend the IC64 coil from napa, it doesn't need one. Put the runtz between the switch and guage.
The runtz keeps a better more tru reading of the fuel level in the tank over the range from empty to full from what I understand. Hook it up to the hot lead of the fuel guage and then the hot wire goes to the other end of the runtz resistor. Can get them from most of the parts suppliers for the trucks. I originally hooked mine up to the lead that goes to the sending unit and that was WRONG. Luckily, I didn't fry it. Andy
I converted my 55 1st to 12 volt, using a internally resisted coil as was suggested. worked great. The problem arose when I tried to install the Pertronix unit. It would not fit my distributor! As luck would have it, I had a distributor from a 62 235, which was a 12 volt distributor, and it fit perfectly. Turns out that the point cam on the 6 volt unit was slightly smaller than the 12 volt unit. So check it carefully. It is a good choice with the correct parts. Mine has been working fine for four years now.
Dizzy = 216 Vs. 235 Just so ; You can use the same points and condensor in either one but the cap and rotor are different , IIRC you can swap 'em both but not mix 'n match . Either dizzy fits either engine but later dizzys have better advance curves , again IIRC .