Go on, now!!! Get your minds OUT of the gutter!!! Attached is a picture of my horn and the test light. I hoked the horn up to the truck yesterday and it worked fine. 6V horn on 12V system. No problems, tooted just great. Later, it didn't. So, I pulled the old horn repair thread and looked it over. The link is attached. I hooked up a 12V battery to it. Ran a test light to the terminal from the + batt. Ran negative batt to ground on the vise. Tried adjusting the points after cleaning thm and no matter what I did, open or close the points, the light would not go out. Horn won't toot either. Just clicks a little when juice is applied. What to do? Andy https://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=6276&highlight=horn
Who, ME BABY??? Shaggadelic, baby~ I'm just going to bypass the whole horn thing and yell obscenities out the window! If you need the horn to avoid a wreck, you probably don't have time, anyway...
I assume that you are using the test light to "reduce" the voltage to the horn to 6volts. It just doesn't work that way Andy. If this was how you had it hooked up originally (horn relay output through the test lamp to horn+) I'm suprised it ever gave a toot. It is not a matter of putting two 6 volt devices (test lamp and horn) in series with each other and then inserting them into a 12 volt system to get 6 volts provided for each device. The lamp probably has a resistance of a few ohms (lets say 3) which will produce a current draw of 2 amps. The horn is much lower resistance (probably less than 1 ohm, lets say .5) so it needs 12 amps of current to make it honk. The lamp will be limiting the max current flow to 2 amps, hence no toot.
Horn Service Notes Hi Andy ; These old eyes are not good but it looks like you have it wired up correctly to adjust it ~ look at the points , the lower (larger) locknut touches the lower , movable point so gently press down on the lower point and see if the light goes out ~ it should . If it does , run the lower nut up until the light goes out then back it until the light just barely comes on again , hold it there whilst you snug up the lock nut and then try tooting it again ~ often the adjusting nut moves just enough when you tighten the lock nut , to ruin the adjustment... If the test light lights , it is hard to imagine the horn not being salvagable... You can also use your test light to follow the current path through the horn's internals until you find the resistance point . 99 % of the time , it's just the points need cleaning , NAPA or Tractor Supply Stores should sell points burnishing files , they're special but cheap and easy to use . Remember : after filing or cleaning the points , you _MUST_ run some lint free paper between them to clean out the tiny filings or it'll arc up and fail again soon . The fact that it " clicks " tells me it's trying to work.... BTW : I went to see Dr. Truong to-day and we were both surprised to find I'm in adjustment , he was thinking the auto crash I had Saturday would have injured me .
Nate, Many times a crash will introduce forces in the neck that take time for the body to compensate for. Often, even after a bad wreck patients will come in and not need to be adjusted according to the instrument. Then, after a few days when the body is done trying to compensate for the jolt, the patient will need to be adjusted again. Believe me, you will know when that happens. I just hooked the horn up to the battery and adjusted the points until it started tooting. works great. already cleaned the points with a business card earlier. what a great tone that horn has. Real old-timey. the kids love it and were tooting it like crazy tonight as we drove around. Andy
Hey Bill ; Yes , you did ~ you correctly mentioned it won't toot with a test light in the power line... -Nate
Obtw : When you're fooling around with old horns from tag sales and swap meets etc. and you get one (or a few) that have a _flat_ tone , this is good ! don't toss it out , take the two worst sounding horns and toot them simultaniously ~ you'll love the mellow vintage car sound Try it , this works . Some old timey horns have a thin pin that goes through them to operate the diaphram and it gets bent (don't ask me how , I dunno) and if you take the pin out and straighten it (I use a hammer and lay the pin in the sidewalk joint , bent part up) , it'll work fine again . I've used 12 volt Ah-OO-ga horns on 6 volt vehicles to very good effect , they take a moment to spool up and so sound neat .
