arrrghhhh! son of a B...

Discussion in '1955-1959' started by gafcob, Jun 28, 2008.

  1. gafcob

    gafcob Member

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    Just got some rims..and 1/4 spacers for my 55 3/4...Now the studds are to short...HELP! How do i replace the studds with longer studds?..Or should I go with a 1/8th inch spacer? Mike G
     
  2. Vin63

    Vin63 Member

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    You can go with a set of racing wheel studs (I did on my rotors - photo below), which are generally longer so that they protrude passed an open end lug. They come in different lengths, size and thread pitch, and knurled sizes. Press out your old studs and measure the hole or knurled diameter and match it up with the appropriate racing stud and press them in. You should be good to go. Good luck. Summit Racing usually has a good selection of sizes, lengths and types.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. gafcob

    gafcob Member

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    awsome

    Thanks..just pounded a stud out..when you say press the new studds in...What do you mean..do I have to take the hub off? It is origanal..Is it diffucult to take it off? Mike Gaff
     
  4. Vin63

    Vin63 Member

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    It's usually easier to remove the hub (is this for the front or rear axles?), especially if the new stud is too long to access from the back. Also, using a shop press is generally better in keeping the stud straight. But, you can also use this (I've done this a few times in a pinch) to mount the stud; draw the stud through the hole using a washer against the hub, a hardened spacer (or stack of hardened washers) and an open-ended lug nut with a flat mounting surface or a regular hardened nut with the same thread and pitch. Tightening the nut against the spacer will draw the stud.
     
  5. gafcob

    gafcob Member

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    Studds

    Its for the front. Could you tell me the proceedure to remove my front hubs? I took the dust cap off...and i see a nut..dont laugh at me..I am flying by the seat of my pants here..Learning as I go..gaff
     
  6. Vin63

    Vin63 Member

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    Is your hub mounted like mine (ignoring the slotted and drilled rotor portion)? If so, there should be a cotter pin, retaining/castle nut and washer. Remove the cotter pin, back the castle nut off and, sometimes it's easier to use a telescoping magnet to slide the washer off the spindle. The hub should, now, be free to come off the spindle - watch for the inner and outer bearings. Good luck.
     
  7. gafcob

    gafcob Member

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    LOL..Bearings

    I like that...WATCH OUT FOR THE BEARINGS>>>LOL...That spells trouble. well for me ...ha ha ha...Went to my checker store..they had 1 studd..in stock..and only 9 around the other stores. which are pretty spread out, They were a bit longer than my origonal studds..about a 1/4 inch..so I got 1 and am suckking in it today with the washer Idea. and my air wrench..My friends at checker was kind enough to give me a website distributer of the Studds I need, I can by 10 at a time (in a bg) .so I need 16..but will buy 20...also..took my plugs out..1 wire had corrosion...from a power wash I bet..but thats for a different post...Thanks for the help...Mike G
     
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2008
  8. Vin63

    Vin63 Member

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    :D Oh, I just meant that sometimes, since I'm clumbsy, that the bearing assemblies fall on the ground on me, so I usually have a clean, lint-free cloth or rag laying underneath the hub when I'm doing work on the front front end.

    If you're having trouble tracking down wheel studs, try this link:
    http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+115+%2D103492&D=%2D103492

    I usually order the ARP studs...their wheel studs have never failed for me. I've tried a few OE and replacement studs in the past that I think the heat treating was questionable and the threads stripped - especially if you draw the studs through the hub to mount them - so go slowly with the studs you got from Checkers.
     
  9. gafcob

    gafcob Member

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    I again thank you Vin...very much...Mike G
     

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